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Old 06-07-2005, 05:46 AM   #1
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Default Nitro Evader ST Bogging Issues

Brand new Duratrax Nitro Evader ST. Properly broken in. my 1st one could pull the wheels like nothing off idle. this one bogs for a second or two then takes off screaming. do i need to mess with the idle screw or the mixture? what else could cause it to bog. only has had 7tanks of 10% Red Alert run through it.


i really dont get it. with the 1st Evader i bought, all i did was break it in..lean it out a little more and it didnt bog at all.

like i said, this one bogs then screeeeeeeech it haulls azz.

im at a loss. dont know anything about carb tuning. i tried reading some links i found using the search function but it doesnt make sense to me.
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Old 06-07-2005, 05:55 AM   #2
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Does the carby have a low speed mixture screw? it sounds as if the low speed is set rich. lean it out a little and see if it works.

Just remember when in doubt lean it out
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Old 06-07-2005, 11:46 AM   #3
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Actually, it could be too LEAN too.
try knocking it out a half a turn richer, try it, and if that didn't help anything, lean it out
or just run the LSN all the way back in, and then turn it out 1.5 to 2 turns back out. that should set you up with a good starting point, and it WILL be rich so there's no question whether it's rich or lean.
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Old 06-07-2005, 04:25 PM   #4
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Yes it does have a idle screw *low speed* and a mixture.

I know for a fact I set the mixture right. It's sounding and puffing smoke the right amount.

Just to make sure, im gonna reset it to break-in specs. Because even then on the old Evader it still didnt bog. time to mess with the idle I guess.
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Old 06-08-2005, 02:30 AM   #5
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If the engine idles smoothly then you shouldn't have to touch the idle screw.

Before you do anything to the carby buy a new glowplug.You should always replace a glow plug after break- in.

Once you done that the Low speed needle should be plush with its casing and you can tinker with the High speed yourself because we don't know exactly if its too rich or too lean.

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Old 06-08-2005, 04:10 AM   #6
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mm, didnt think of a new plug. ill do what you suggested later today. thx for the reply.

ill post my results if any.
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Old 06-08-2005, 09:06 AM   #7
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well, just got back from outside.

Idle Mixture screw is set at one complete turn out of all the way in.



now this is the odd part. when 1st breaking in, it says to have the regular mixture needle 2turns out from completely in.

when breakin in is done, it should be 2 1/2 turns out. it took me almost another full turn to lean it out where it didnt bog.

i dont think its running lean, cuz it sounds normal and now it doesnt bog offidle anymore..plus it still leaves a nice smoke screen. only weird thing is. on occassion it will try to kill itself when WOT is held for a high speed run. i found that i dont really need to give it WOT on the trigger for the motor to run what it seems WOT.

sounds weird i know. all this was done on the original glowplug that came with it and was broken in on.

im still gonna swap for a new one when the shop opens just in case it will help even more somehow.
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Old 06-09-2005, 07:16 AM   #8
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Glow plugs are usually fouled after break-in.

Okay if the car is shifty when you go WOT richen the HS in 1/4 increments.

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Old 06-09-2005, 12:47 PM   #9
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I've seen a few of those crappy factory Duratrax plugs go out before breakin was done.
however, in two of my .12CVRs, I have had the same plugs for almost 2 gallons...and they've been in since breakin.
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Old 06-09-2005, 06:29 PM   #10
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now it wont even start. i havent changed a thing.

only thing i can see is, the new glowplug only gets somewhat hot enough to where its glowing orange.

isnt it supposed to be brighter than that?

i hope a new battery in the starter is all it needs.
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Old 06-10-2005, 03:11 AM   #11
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eww, you're still using the one that uses C cells?
get a GOOD rechargable one.
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Old 06-10-2005, 05:13 AM   #12
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Just for now replace the glow ignitor battery.Those things don't last very long.

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