jpcopeland1

iTrader: (164)

Building mine right now. All diffs have an insane amount of play in the gearboxes. Anyone else had this problem? User where you get 5 small
Shims, but nowhere in any literature I can find tells you to shim the diffs. Please advise. Duh. Google was my friend. Excellent build after that.

Uga

BTW, tried out the CSI V-Port red pistons on my Xray today. I was very impressed how soft the shocks felt, how they managed to work through every small bump and the car also squared up pretty well after landing the big jumps. Running the AE ones with 35wt in front and 30wt rear (Ultimate Racing oils). The track is dusty and rutty outdoor clay with quite open layout and some big jumps.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Another successful practice day with the XB9e. This thing this terrific on dirt in loose conditions. It was dialed.

Does anyone make mud guards for this buggy?

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (164)

Going to take mine out to LRH tomorrow. Is anybody running any kind of protector to cover up the slot where the spur gear is exposed?

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Love LRH. I haven't run mine on clay yet. Are you running the stock 16 deg caster blocks? My guess is, the 12 or 10 deg will work better at LRH.

I don't know what you could put there to cover the hole. The stock spur runs flush with the bottom of the chassis. I just run it open. I ran it at Rev with no issues.

josex

DEracing's XB9 mud guards fit perfect.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (164)

I have both 10 and 12 deg. Caster blocks to try. Have the 12s on it now.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

I'm running the 12's myself. Work great.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (164)

Schools getting in the way of my RC. Will have a report on it on clay either tomorrow or Friday.

jpcopeland1

iTrader: (164)

I took mine out yesterday and had the same issue, there is a very sharp 180 degree turn and if you didn't break soon enough and hit the inside line, you pushed all the way to the edge of the turn and could possibly drift right into the back straight. Not good. I need to fix this before racing on Saturday. My first thought is to try a thinner front sway bar, or remove it all together like I did with the XB4, that car steers like slot car now and is so hooked up there it is insane.

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

Yep, I made the suggested changes, 5-7-2 diff, removed 1 degree of anti squat, shortened rear link, changed roll center on shock towers, and still….. it pushes on power in turns…..feels like something is just not right. I drove someones Tekno…it rotates more than you need, I was also helping a guy with a RTR Ofna buggy, and even that will rotate on itself if turned too sharp.

You guys know how with some cars if you turn too sharp, the rear end will begin to rotate and come around on you, so you have to dial out some of the steering…..I need that problem .Lol I may just have to try the ackerman next…. or try the lightest front sway bar available. Removing it from the XB4 definitely helped it rotate and in the tight switchback and tight turn sections on the same track

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

Here's a thought…. has anyone ever switched hexes and put the wider ones in the rear and the standard ones in the front? Or tried standard all the way around?

blade329

iTrader: (114)

I had that exact scenario on another car of mine for a clay track. I ended up removing the front sway bar entirely and that made a huge difference.

I don't have that problem at all on the outdoor track I run on. This thing corners like a monster in loose conditions.

Is there anything binding on the buggy? Bent inner hinge pins can cause it push like that.

Yodah

iTrader: (57)

Yeah it's on high bite clay, I will check for mechanical issues as well. I don't have that issue outdoors either.... But it is a little looser, pushes some but it rotates a little easier.
I am running 3 degree toe and -2 on camber

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Going to -1 camber should help a little.

What about tires? Are you using super soft or clay compound?