BentKa

Managing to shim the diff correctly the first time isn't a "downside".......and what's wrong with the battery straps......the looks

And yes the included oils doesn't perform 100% for all types of tracks and surfaces........and especially not for his street tires and speed runs

And yes.......buhu......there's isn't a body included

Buy the one you like the best

I've built 3 of the X9E by now.....that's 9 diffs.......all shimmed the same way.......tight but not notching.......ran for a battery pack to free them up.....then changed the diff oil to fresh.
Butter smooth and never have to be shimmed again.......just change to fresh oil once in a while or for setup changes.......done it the same way for 30 years now......still works

Problem with "reviews" like this newbie's (yes I said it) is that people can get the impression there's a problem building the diffs correctly when in a matter of fact this is one of the easiest builds and best handling buggies out of the box on the market today

It has nothing to do with not being open to feedback

And thanks....Malin is improving race by race and she just loves her Xrays even though she managed to brake the first parts on her XB9E this weekend.......just goes to show how strong this buggy really is though

Bent

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

"The main problem is that no body is supplied with the car, and no body exists that is 100% compatible "

It really all comes back to that body issue huh?

I mean , How many shims should there be ? How many came in the other x ray kits ? how many come in a Mugen kit ? How many do the diffs actually need when brand new ? The shims go behind the bearing for a very good reason, this was not an accident .

"Given that the shimming will need adjusting after the first few packs, I decided to pause the build (on the very first step) and get the right shims, just because Xray are too cheap to include them".

Had to stop the build , to go buy the "wrong" shims so I can have some outboard shims to bend up when I service diffs quickly at the track .

Different oils for nitro and electric ? Now thats a marketing idea someone should jump on .

"The car itself is nothing short of incredible in terms of quality, fit and finish, as expected for Xray" then , a paragraph later "The attention to detail and production values of this kit are absolutely abysmal" Huh ?

X ray has always used supplemental instructions in addition to the extremely expensive manuals they produce for the original kit. This is smart business.

I can sum up the list of his problems pretty easy .... " I bought this kit and wish it had a body , lazy shims , thicker oils , better velcro straps , zip tie holes , and a single instruction manual. Other then those things , its excellent".

Xray are not the perfect kits by any means , but those "issues" listed are really 1st world problems. We are buying xray , kyosho ,and Mugen stuff becasue we remember how "bad" , the " bad" kits really were.

Pulse_

we all have a different background and different priorities when buying a kit, I don't see where is the problem if a newbie wants to review the XB9E

to me every feedback is worth consideration and helps know more about the car, that's what really matters

BentKa

Problems arise when newbies make reviews being read by newbies

Stating that the wrong shims and wrong quantity is included in the kit is plain and simply spreading incorrect information.

And if this isn't corrected this information will keep spreading and eventually be adopted by the newbies as correct information.

See it happen all the time and I get approached by people on the track having all sorts of problems due to "reading up" on incorrect information on various forums.

So no......it's not just another review.......it's a review containing incorrect information

Bent

Pulse_

I had not enough shims too in the box to get a correct mesh and even posted a question on the nitro forum to make sure I was doing it right..
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-of...h-correct.html

well, whatever

USMC STONE

I'm sorry but the crap you post is a joke, hell half of what that dumbass said he contradicted within the next sentence.
If I see stupid I will call it stupid, like most of your post. A big waste of time and terrible info.

Pulse_

thanks USMC stone for that moment of love

BentKa

You'll get the hang of it eventually

It's a big difference in missing shims in the box and stating that Xray includes the wrong set of shims and the first thing you need to do is run out and buy different shims.....that's incorrect information......nothing else

All three XB9E's I've built last couple of months all required the same amount of shims and are still butter smooth with no excessive play.

Guess I'm just extremely lucky with all my Xray builds

Bent

Pulse_

this is going nowhere some guys had to buy added shims some don't, it's no big deal

everyone including me agree to say the car is great, quality is great, driving experience is great and when one driver dares talking about a thing he found annoying on the XB9E a world war three begins

have fun, this is still a hobby

USMC STONE

No problem, you make it really easy to provide.
Again with quoting some idiot that doesn't know what he is doing with the shims. When you say "some" I'm pretty sure you just mean you and him? And he was wrong like I'm sure you were in building the diffs. I've never heard of anyone needing to buy more. If it was an opinion and not misinformation it would be ok but the guy is just wrong. Like I said if I see stupid I will call it stupid. I'm nowhere near as nice as others would be. I don't think posting that bs wrong info helps anyone.

aloksatoor

iTrader: (42)

I did not know also that I had to shim. I have had 2 808e, 1 808 nitro, 1 xb9 nitro and 1 xb9e none have ever required any shimming. Heck I build that tekno truck without shims just cos I got spoiled with xray and then reread the rctech thread and saw shims in my kit hahah! The only real issue I have ever had with Xray was the 808 pinion bearings for the center drive shafts. That too were fixed with real heavy grease filled in those bearings.
Been very lucky thus far with xray then!

BentKa

Just pure luck



On a serious note;

Incorrect information posted on forums by users with no idea of what they are doing and people that defend them and help spreading incorrect information IS unfortunately a problem

Bent

USMC STONE

I'm sure I could be a little nicer about some of the post but it gets frustrating reading something you know to be wrong or repeated like a frickn parrot.

The old 808e 2 and 3 bearing diffs were a pain but I still got 3-4 weekends before they came apart and that fell within my normal maintenance range so it wasn't a problem for me but I understood the frustration. Those bearing issues are long gone. I have never broken a arm or any plastic part. I have over 4 years had a front driveshaft pin break or fly out and just recently did have my first real DNF with an XRAY. I was sitting against the pipe when another buggy hit my side at about 35mph and it snapped my ALUMINUM rear camber link. The 12' XB9 came with aluminum links instead of the Hudy steel and mine is a 12' that I converted a year ago. XRAY went back to the Hudy steel in '13 so that's not an issue anymore. If you complain about the instructions that come with this kit then please let me know what brand you have been building that makes a better manual, I would say they are idiot proof but there are a few trying to prove that wrong

Although I do think I found an error in the 12' manual. On page 16 showing the rear links they show in the first box a big picture with the ends going onto the links with the wrong direction saying left thread when it should be right. The small box showing 39mm shows correct threading or am I the idiot and reading something wrong.

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

i personally.. didnt use the shims the kit came with.. reason?? because its so much easier to use the "optional" way of doing it.. which it shows in the manual. i have done it that way for years..

i personally, wouldnt do it the way the manual says.. because.. if you need to add a shim.. you gotta pull the whole diff apart.

dgrobe2112

iTrader: (33)

i can see what your seeing.. however.. the parts are really the same.. there is no left, or right.. they are just showing you that the knuckle part is towards the outside.. and nearest to the outer hub

back in the day.. i would always setup my turnbuckles, so.. i would have to go the same direction, for more camber, or less.. meaning.. when looking from the front of the buggy.. i would turn my wrench back for more camber.. or forward for less camber.. on both sides of the car.. and it would be the same for the rear.. as looking from the rear..

these turnbuckles, the knuckle is closer to the natural side.. opposite side threads are farther away from knuckle..

edit:
no wait a minute.. ur right.. the upper box showing them threading into the knuckles.. is incorrect.. right threads are on the side near the knuckle..

another thing.. look at the arrows.. they are going the same direction in the exploded views.. one side should be opposite the other.. per camber link