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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 08-02-2015, 08:52 AM
  #1546  
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Originally Posted by katoom007
Hey guys. Just starting to run my zx6 . at the track yesterday I did have a problem with the ball stud caps coming undone. Is there a way to get upgraded ones that clip tighter? And where is the best place to get gear diffs. I think that would make it a little less maintenance that the ball difs right? Thank you all for your help. I am running a shorty and the stock a arms as well.
The Kyosho ball cups are usually pretty good,
Never had an issue with them popping off. I have the Lunsford Ti camber links and use the black Lunsford ball cups that came with them, they seem to be holding up well. So, if the stock ones pop off easy, I'd first replace the stock ones with new stock ones. That should help for sure. Otherwise, you could get the Lunsford camber link kit with their ball cups, but it's not that cheap if you're on a budget.

Gear diffs?
Cheap places to get them, I'd check eBay.
Yes they will be less maint. than the ball diffs to a point. Won't blow out the ring and pinion if you shim them right. If you do get them, I'd recommend to also get 4 5x8x2.5 (2 per gear diff) to put in place of the stock plastic parts that come with the gear diffs, helps the gear diffs last a lot longer and stay smoother.
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Old 08-02-2015, 12:42 PM
  #1547  
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Originally Posted by Teufel Racing
The Kyosho ball cups are usually pretty good,
Never had an issue with them popping off. I have the Lunsford Ti camber links and use the black Lunsford ball cups that came with them, they seem to be holding up well. So, if the stock ones pop off easy, I'd first replace the stock ones with new stock ones. That should help for sure. Otherwise, you could get the Lunsford camber link kit with their ball cups, but it's not that cheap if you're on a budget.

Gear diffs?
Cheap places to get them, I'd check eBay.
Yes they will be less maint. than the ball diffs to a point. Won't blow out the ring and pinion if you shim them right. If you do get them, I'd recommend to also get 4 5x8x2.5 (2 per gear diff) to put in place of the stock plastic parts that come with the gear diffs, helps the gear diffs last a lot longer and stay smoother.
Thank you for your help. I will be doing some shopping.
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:13 PM
  #1548  
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Tomorrow I finally will be able to turn some practice laps with my ZX and I'm second guessing whether or not building it front motor was a good choice. Most setup I see are rear motor. Ive only put about 5 packs through it so far and liked how it drove for the most part, but not enough time to truly see how I like it. Ive done a quick search and haven't yielded any results on the differences of the actual driving characteristics of each setup. Any advice? We were running outside before on low grip soil but now have gone back indoors to a medium/high grip compacted top soil.
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Old 08-31-2015, 04:27 AM
  #1549  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Tomorrow I finally will be able to turn some practice laps with my ZX and I'm second guessing whether or not building it front motor was a good choice.
Robsracin, How'd it run?

I too just joined the zx6 club and ran 3 packs on s real busy practice day. I used King's setup (and Tebo) as a baseline with the parts I had in-hand).

After tire break in, I felt the buggy was super easy to drive, but lacked on power steering. I'm going to tune in my diff and slipper before making more changes.

Changes:
Stock chassis, stock plastics
Gold springs F&R, 1.6x2 all away around
42.5f/35r oil (don't have 1.7 Pistons for rear)
Time driving it > buying more options
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:51 AM
  #1550  
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Just opened up my zx6. Before I begin the build, I'm wondering if I should build it with he ball diff or get the gear diff and build it.

Anyone have experience with both. I will mainly be runnung medium-high bite turf outside and some high bite carpet indoors. The carpet will be taking over for the most part in a month, so I have to keep that in mind.

Any opinions on the setup of the car and mainly gear or ball diff opinions would be appreciated.

thanks
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:49 AM
  #1551  
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Originally Posted by Kuya_Kimo
Robsracin, How'd it run?

I too just joined the zx6 club and ran 3 packs on s real busy practice day. I used King's setup (and Tebo) as a baseline with the parts I had in-hand).

After tire break in, I felt the buggy was super easy to drive, but lacked on power steering. I'm going to tune in my diff and slipper before making more changes.

Changes:
Stock chassis, stock plastics
Gold springs F&R, 1.6x2 all away around
42.5f/35r oil (don't have 1.7 Pistons for rear)
Time driving it > buying more options
The car was really good. The only thing it's lacking right now is steering in general, both on and off power. The car is great through the rough and jumps really well. I was on Losi 35 front and 30 rear 1.5's up front with 1.6 rear. Those are the only Pistons I had unfortunately. I also noticed that my front ball diff had loosened up by the end of the main due to breaking in I assume so when I tighten hat back up hopefully it will help
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:50 AM
  #1552  
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Originally Posted by Franzchise
Just opened up my zx6. Before I begin the build, I'm wondering if I should build it with he ball diff or get the gear diff and build it.

Anyone have experience with both. I will mainly be runnung medium-high bite turf outside and some high bite carpet indoors. The carpet will be taking over for the most part in a month, so I have to keep that in mind.

Any opinions on the setup of the car and mainly gear or ball diff opinions would be appreciated.

thanks
High bite surfaces like that you definitely will want gear diffs
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:15 PM
  #1553  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
The car was really good. The only thing it's lacking right now is steering in general, both on and off power. The car is great through the rough and jumps really well. I was on Losi 35 front and 30 rear 1.5's up front with 1.6 rear. Those are the only Pistons I had unfortunately. I also noticed that my front ball diff had loosened up by the end of the main due to breaking in I assume so when I tighten hat back up hopefully it will help
I should also mention that I have sway bars front/rear, v2 0* hubs, and the RB6 rear arms on the car with the inside hole drilled out
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Old 08-31-2015, 10:08 PM
  #1554  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
I should also mention that I have sway bars front/rear, v2 0* hubs, and the RB6 rear arms on the car with the inside hole drilled out
Are you running motor back? I know a lot of guys are running that configuration but I tried and really liked the motor forward with shorty pack on the left and the speedo and receiver on the right. I can't speak for the longer chassis, but almost all of my handling qualms went away once I switched to motor forward and the shorty pack.
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:32 AM
  #1555  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
Are you running motor back? I know a lot of guys are running that configuration but I tried and really liked the motor forward with shorty pack on the left and the speedo and receiver on the right. I can't speak for the longer chassis, but almost all of my handling qualms went away once I switched to motor forward and the shorty pack.
Yes that is the configuration I am running as well. I couldn't see how it would be better with the motor in the rear and the weights of each component was nearly identical side-to-side with a front motor configuration. Like I said the car does everything really well besides turning at this point
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:19 PM
  #1556  
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Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Yes that is the configuration I am running as well. I couldn't see how it would be better with the motor in the rear and the weights of each component was nearly identical side-to-side with a front motor configuration. Like I said the car does everything really well besides turning at this point
The biggest thing you'll see is how the car reacts being on power. The motor spins in a different direction in relation to the drive-train. On power with motor forward will cause the rotational torque to push down on the front end. The motor back position does the same but pushes on the back end. I had the exact same problem you are currently experiencing until I went motor forward. After that, I had plenty of steering and it was comfortable steering. The other option is to go with Kyosho's new chassis and mount the motor brace in the new "forward" position.

Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread-imag0548.jpg
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Old 09-09-2015, 10:42 PM
  #1557  
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Anyone else feel like the rear end never settles on power and exiting a corner? I feel like the front end walks the rear end around. I tried 521 arms and the rear end stayed a lot flatter, not sure what Im missing with the gull arms...
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Old 09-10-2015, 08:14 AM
  #1558  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
The biggest thing you'll see is how the car reacts being on power. The motor spins in a different direction in relation to the drive-train. On power with motor forward will cause the rotational torque to push down on the front end. The motor back position does the same but pushes on the back end. I had the exact same problem you are currently experiencing until I went motor forward. After that, I had plenty of steering and it was comfortable steering. The other option is to go with Kyosho's new chassis and mount the motor brace in the new "forward" position.

Attachment 1315950
Your setup is the exact same as mine
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:12 AM
  #1559  
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I misunderstood. A lot of my steering issues went away when I went motor forward. Diff could be too tight. You could also try going narrower on the front hinge pin blocks. something else that worked for me was moving the shock in on the rear tower. Do you have a base setup you are working off?
Originally Posted by RobsRacin
Your setup is the exact same as mine
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:18 AM
  #1560  
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Originally Posted by cnelson3
I misunderstood. A lot of my steering issues went away when I went motor forward. Diff could be too tight. You could also try going narrower on the front hinge pin blocks. something else that worked for me was moving the shock in on the rear tower. Do you have a base setup you are working off?
Yes I should of thought about the diffs while I was at the track but I would say about 3/4 rotation in the front and just over a full turn in the rear as far as diff tightness. Im working off this set currently...

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...i_RCE20150312/
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