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Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread

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Old 01-24-2018, 07:02 AM   -   Wikipost
R/C Tech ForumsThread Wiki: Kyosho Lazer ZX-6 & ZX-6.6 4WD Thread
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Last edit by: alex4r
Kyosho ZX6.6 New Parts (* = required to update ZX6 to ZX6.6 platform)


LA359B - Center Mount Set (ZX6.6)*
LA375 - Center Diff. Gear Set(ZX6.6)*
LA375-01 - Center Diff. Gear Case Set(ZX6.6)
LA375-78 - Spur Gear(48P-78T/ZX6.6)
LA376 - Center Drive Shaft (71.5/ZX6.6)*
LA377 - Center Drive Shaft (79.5/ZX6.6)* (x2)
LA378 - Center Drive Shaft (88/ZX6.6)*
LA379 - Joint Cup Cover (ZX6/ZX6.6)*
LAW54B-01 - HD Chassis*
LA355B - Side guard set*
UM713B - Rear Arms (from RB6)*
UM561 - Outer rear hinge pins*
LA236-12B - 1.2mm Front sway bar*
LA351B 4-hole front shock tower*


Options
VVC Blades TFW126
Spare Blades TFW001-01

Manuals

Lazer ZX6.6
Lazer ZX6

After Market Bodies

JConcepts Silencer

Weight Reduction options for 13.5 Class

Chassis:
UMW711B - Carbon composite rear arms
LAW60 - Carbon composite front upper bulkhead
LAW61 - Carbon composite rear upper bulkhead
LAW52 - Carbon composite front chassis brace
LAW53 - Carbon composite rear chassis brace
LA209HB - Carbon composite gear boxes (pinion bearing retainer & upper gearbox half only, lower half not compatible/saves 4.6g total)
Driveline:
LA211B - Plastic drive cups for center drive shafts coming out of front & rear gear boxes (requires drilling two holes for set screws to secure LA379)
TFW001 - Aluminum blade style outdrives (for ball diff/requires TF013)
LA202 - Aluminum pinion shafts (for ball diff)
TFW126 - VVC outdrives (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
TFW008 - VVC cross pins (for gear diff - front/rear/center)
Misc:
LAB06LW - LW Blade body
SK0402 - Ti screw set (Available at Lunsfordracing.com)
PTK-T-2111 - Ti screw set (cheaper, slightly less durable option)
LNS7765 - Ti ball studs
LNS2688 - Ti Turnbuckles
LNS36107 - Ti Turnbuckles (super duty)
W0201H - Hard anodized lower shock balls
1-N3024A-R - Aluminum M3x2.4 nuts (for shock standoffs)
1-N3033NA-R - Aluminum M3x3.3 locknuts

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Old 11-30-2014, 08:19 AM
  #1111  
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Originally Posted by motorfinger
I am getting ready to pull the trigger on some gear diffs for my ZX5 transformation to a ZX6 and there was a link to a video on here that seems to not be working any more. Is there any tips I should know about building the diffs or does someone have a link to the video. Also what are some diff oil recommendations to start with. I run on a med/high traction track.
I switched to the gear diffs when I first got the car. I started with 5kf and 3kr and it had way to much turn in. I ended up at 10kf and 7kr. The track I race on is a large outdoor track that can get loose and rough for 1/10th scale buggies. The gear diffs are pretty straight forward. I did use bearings (5 x 8 x 2.5) instead of the plastic bushings supplied with the gear diffs. Here is the link for the petitrc info on the gear diff. http://petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/setu...BuildGearDiff/
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Old 11-30-2014, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by motorfinger
I am getting ready to pull the trigger on some gear diffs for my ZX5 transformation to a ZX6 and there was a link to a video on here that seems to not be working any more. Is there any tips I should know about building the diffs or does someone have a link to the video. Also what are some diff oil recommendations to start with. I run on a med/high traction track.
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...BuildGearDiff/
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Old 11-30-2014, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Speedychris22
That's great, I was going to install the setup this weekend. What tires work at ur track?
I was using proline suburb rear and proline scrub front in x2 all day. But this tebo setup feels like it will be a good base setup and work in many conditions.
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Old 12-01-2014, 11:29 AM
  #1114  
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Originally Posted by motorfinger
I am getting ready to pull the trigger on some gear diffs for my ZX5 transformation to a ZX6 and there was a link to a video on here that seems to not be working any more. Is there any tips I should know about building the diffs or does someone have a link to the video. Also what are some diff oil recommendations to start with. I run on a med/high traction track.


This one?

http://www.petitrc.com/setup/kyosho/...BuildGearDiff/
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:20 AM
  #1115  
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Mine is coming in the mail tomorrow....I should have never sold my 1st one. Can't wait! I am going right to the gear diffs with 5/5. Does anyone make Carbon shock towers for the car?

Matt
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Old 12-05-2014, 05:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Posvar
Mine is coming in the mail tomorrow....I should have never sold my 1st one. Can't wait! I am going right to the gear diffs with 5/5. Does anyone make Carbon shock towers for the car?

Matt
Bezerk RC. Look them up on Facebook.
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:01 AM
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Just did...Didn't see anything on F.book or online
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Old 12-05-2014, 06:59 AM
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https://m.facebook.com/BezerkRc?refs...com%2FBezerkRc
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Posvar
Mine is coming in the mail tomorrow....I should have never sold my 1st one. Can't wait! I am going right to the gear diffs with 5/5. Does anyone make Carbon shock towers for the car?

Matt
I was abusing my moderator permission's looking at the 44.3 thread. Seems as though the current rumor is that the 44.3 guys are running a center gear diff and ball diffs. Silly rumor's.
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:49 AM
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Has anyone tried to put light diff fluid in the front than the rear? Lets say like 3k or 5k in the front and 5k or 7k in the rear.
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Old 12-07-2014, 05:53 AM
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Anybody else have trouble with the cvd pin at the axles backing out? I've been putting loctite on the grub screws but the pin works passed the screw. Its getting more frequent. When the pin backs out, the grub screw is still tight. Seems about every 4 runs I have one back out. I'm keeping the cvd's greased. I check before each run but it still happens. I thought about putting a flat spot on the pin at the grub screw but am afraid of weakening it. May be the solution though.

When the pin backs out, ugly things happen. I have destroyed caster blocks, a swing shaft and a couple of king pin screws.
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Old 12-07-2014, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER
Anybody else have trouble with the cvd pin at the axles backing out? I've been putting loctite on the grub screws but the pin works passed the screw. Its getting more frequent. When the pin backs out, the grub screw is still tight. Seems about every 4 runs I have one back out. I'm keeping the cvd's greased. I check before each run but it still happens. I thought about putting a flat spot on the pin at the grub screw but am afraid of weakening it. May be the solution though.

When the pin backs out, ugly things happen. I have destroyed caster blocks, a swing shaft and a couple of king pin screws.
I haven't had this happen yet.
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Old 12-07-2014, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER
Anybody else have trouble with the cvd pin at the axles backing out? I've been putting loctite on the grub screws but the pin works passed the screw. Its getting more frequent. When the pin backs out, the grub screw is still tight. Seems about every 4 runs I have one back out. I'm keeping the cvd's greased. I check before each run but it still happens. I thought about putting a flat spot on the pin at the grub screw but am afraid of weakening it. May be the solution though.

When the pin backs out, ugly things happen. I have destroyed caster blocks, a swing shaft and a couple of king pin screws.
Try replacing the set screw as these can go bad sometimes.

Another alternative, if I understand your problem correctly, is to apply some heat shrink to that area for added protection. I don't know if it will always stay on but it might help.

The other thing too, that I can think of, is maybe you have a wheel that is really out of balance. This condition can cause excessive vibration through the drive line and that set screw just can't take it anymore.

Report back what you find in case someone else has this problem too.
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Old 12-07-2014, 10:59 AM
  #1124  
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Originally Posted by 3DRCRACER
Anybody else have trouble with the cvd pin at the axles backing out? I've been putting loctite on the grub screws but the pin works passed the screw. Its getting more frequent. When the pin backs out, the grub screw is still tight. Seems about every 4 runs I have one back out. I'm keeping the cvd's greased. I check before each run but it still happens. I thought about putting a flat spot on the pin at the grub screw but am afraid of weakening it. May be the solution though.

When the pin backs out, ugly things happen. I have destroyed caster blocks, a swing shaft and a couple of king pin screws.
On the rear CVDs you can use heatshrink tube like others have said but I find it doesn't stay on the fronts due to the steering lock.

I bulletproof all my Kyosho CVDs (RB6 and ZX5) by grinding a flat on the pin where the grub screw goes, and I also clean them carefully with brake cleaner before reassembly to really make sure the Loctite does its job (you should clean the grub screw as well).

Also I don't grease the CVD during assembly, it just contaminates the Loctite and you can do this 24 hours later after it sets using spray grease or something similar. Plus I change the heatshrink every week. Hope this helps
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Old 12-07-2014, 03:34 PM
  #1125  
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love my zx-6!
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