disappearing solder

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Old 06-06-2013, 06:22 AM
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Motor temps are always gonna be high in a Houston summer where it is 95deg day and night :/
Katy RC track is real loose and dusty so there is a lot of wheel spin which also will contribute to motor heat. You probably need to adjust your current limiter though.
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:45 AM
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I agree buy a Hakko soldering station. Heats up in less than 1 minute and you will be a soldering king!
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Old 06-06-2013, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
It looks like the solder joint on the motor tab wasnt hot enough.
Im going to agree with him, there is too much of a glaze on the bullet connection. I run my iron at about 500* to solder. I ran a cheaper iron also for a while, but since i got my Hakko i have had no real issues.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoese37 View Post
It looks like the solder joint on the motor tab wasnt hot enough.
This gets my vote.

even 60/40 solder that "sucks" won't do that if soldered correctly. If you're getting cold joints with 60/40 going to a "higher quality" silver solder is only going to make it harder. A quality iron is a must when using silver solder.

The look of your joints can be done without additional flux bit not usually, so I'll assume you're using some type of flux, other than what's in the solder itself..? If not you really should be, regardless of what some may say.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
This gets my vote.

even 60/40 solder that "sucks" won't do that if soldered correctly. If you're getting cold joints with 60/40 going to a "higher quality" silver solder is only going to make it harder. A quality iron is a must when using silver solder.

The look of your joints can be done without additional flux bit not usually, so I'll assume you're using some type of flux, other than what's in the solder itself..? If not you really should be, regardless of what some may say.
+1 flux flux flux! The solder will suck right into the wires.
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Old 06-06-2013, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by racer1812 View Post
This gets my vote.

even 60/40 solder that "sucks" won't do that if soldered correctly. If you're getting cold joints with 60/40 going to a "higher quality" silver solder is only going to make it harder. A quality iron is a must when using silver solder.

The look of your joints can be done without additional flux bit not usually, so I'll assume you're using some type of flux, other than what's in the solder itself..? If not you really should be, regardless of what some may say.
My thoughts also. I always use rosin/ flux to help the solder flow into the wire strands. Then I drop it to the tinned tab and lay the heat to it as I flow more solder in. If at ANY point it moves before the solder is cooled, it may create a cold joint.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
-Cold cheap iron. Get a Hakko station. I use a 80w weller in the field and leave my station at home. 40w pencils just aren't reliable. and make sure your iron has plenty of time to heatup, and to reheat as you're using it. Move slowly. Stations have a light that flashes when you can solder.

-weird wire routing, make sure the wires aren't tugging themselfs free. Solder ain't steel. The weight of plugs flopping around also tugs the wire off. And ziptieing the plugs down just allows chassis flex to tug at the wires. Which lead us to....

-lose the motor plugs. Newb nonsense. Wire direct from ESC to motor. You can use a very good connector for your battery though. Just make sure it's a darn good connector not that birdcage rubbish. Batteries with 4mm sockets and the shorty plugs seem to be the cleanest way to wire up electric cars these days.

-you can rough up those motor tabs a little with sandpaper. Perfectly smooth surfaces don't stick to solder as well.

Try that stuff and let us know.
i have actually had pretty good luck with the pencil...maybe one day when my commission gets stacked ill buy a nice setup. Seems as though im using it more and more so it may be justifiable.

motor plugs?? and i ditched the bird cage crap for these
http://www.redrc.net/wp-content/uplo...ulletPlugs.jpg
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:43 AM
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A good way to test your solder joints is to pull on them. You should be able to pull somewhat firmly and not have joint fail.

To be honest it sounds like you've got a bad RX8. Did it shut off right after a jump? Did you make a hard "flat" landing? What might be happening is that your RX8 is momentarily shutting off, then rearming. You're probably going to have to send it in for repair.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:43 AM
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Be careful with flux and be sure you DON'T use an acid based flux. It is highly corrosive. A pencil iron with a good size tip will work fine. You just need something that has some heat capacity so that the tip doesn't instantly cool when it hits the motor tab. Any temperature regulated soldering iron will make life better, 40W or higher. In general, Weller irons that are orange are not regulated where as the blue ones are. Nearly all soldering stations are regulated.
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Old 06-06-2013, 08:53 AM
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Is there any flux or solder on Amain or Tower ya'll prefer?

My local stores just seem to have what noone recommends.
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:08 AM
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Cold solder joint..

Get 63/37 Solder, it's way better than 60/40..
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Is there any flux or solder on Amain or Tower ya'll prefer?

My local stores just seem to have what noone recommends.
Try this man..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KESTER-WIRE-...item5d3b9eff87

For soldering Iron, GET A HAKKO!! Love them..
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect View Post
Is there any flux or solder on Amain or Tower ya'll prefer?

My local stores just seem to have what noone recommends.
flux, I use this...

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Flux-Paste-2oz

solder, I've never had an issue using 60/40. My joints don't fall off and temps are never an issue. The benefits of a silver solder can be argued but my 60/40 isn't costing me any races.

same brand as the flux..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...lder-60-40-4oz
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by bigbadbasher View Post
Cold solder joint..

Get 63/37 Solder, it's way better than 60/40..
I don't have issues, so I've never seen a reason to change. But after a little reading I might have to try some (63/37).
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Old 06-06-2013, 09:26 AM
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Ive just found 63/37 is easier to work with..
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