Is there an updated base setup or still the book?

PS I get the analogy but, throw a hammer it will almost always go down nose heavy like a ton of bricks at the end of it's flight :P

the hammer doesn't have nearly 2 pounds of tires doing 1500RPM.

I see everyone seems fairly happy with the stock setup. A couple thing. When building my kit should I use stock shock and diff oils? Or have you guys found that other oils work better with large loamy tracks?

I put 450/350 in my shocks and 10 x 1.2 here but tracks or less jumps and low grip here.

I didn't try it yet but i'm going by info gathered with the buggy.

Tekno Suggestion Box:

1) I understand already having the manuals printed prior to making a few changes, but would it be possible to update the manual on your website for download?

2) Would it be possible to make the following option part? : A set of side guards (mudguards) that are wide as a typical truggy body and has an extended battery tray with inserts. The inserts would be for use of smaller batteries. Sounds like a seller to me.

3) TKR1443 Droop screws. It would be nice if the up-facing end had a hex socket for easy adjustment from the top. [Update: Oops, I didn't realize that the droop screws would be perfectly accessible from the bottom. So never mind]
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The build so far:

Everything, for the most part is going together smoothly, but here are a few notes.

1) Buy A 4mm Reamer. Not everyone will have one of these in their tool box. They are "needed" for the the a-arms, as the inner pins fit snugly. Tekno suggest reaming them out. I didn't know I needed a reamer, so I chose skip that step. After cycling the arms for few minutes. The rear arms moved fairly easily under there own weight (no hub/cva assembly installed at this point).

2) Inner Diff Shims Are Different. Tekno uses Facebook more than their own website for news and updated information. This was mentioned there. The shims are not the same as indicated in the manual. The ID of the shims are also over-sized (not sure why), but the diff builds smoothly.....at least in my case.

3) Diff Gasket Tip. The gasket fits really snug in the ring gear and the holes in the gasket are precisely the size of the holes in the ring gear. So, install the gasket in the ring gear at an angle and get the first hole aligned perfectly before working the rest of the gasket in. I personally smeared a lil' bit of black grease on both sides of the gasket first. Once the gasket is fully seated, you can not turn it within the ring gear.

4) Different Screws For The Swaybars. The screw to mount the sway bar linkage to the arms is called out as 14mm long. They are actually 20mm.

5) Outer Diff Shims Tip. [I'll try to post a pic of this later] I found it to be quite a feat of magic to get the diff in the housings with one shim on each side. They are delicate, thin, and have nothing to keep them in place while you try to install the diff. It's very easy to buckle/bend one or miss getting it in the housing. What worked great for me was to cut a .5mm x 30-40 degree chamfer on the inside of each of the four corners of the bearing lip of each diff housing halve (8 total for front diff, 8 total for rear diff). This allowed me a bit of alignment assistance to get the diff installed with damaging the shims.

6) Hub CVA Installation. I like to eliminate axial movement along the hing pin. As instructed, there's still a bit (less than 1mm) of axial play, which is typical of most kits I come across. [BTW, the nailed it on the inner hinge.] I added .5mm thick shim to the stack of spacers used on the outer pin.

7) Body Protection. The bodies have been getting quite a bit of damage about the front shock towers. After the paint has fully cured on your body, reinforce these areas. Smear some Amazing Goop on an press a square of drywall tape in. Add more goop, more tape, more goop, more tape, and finish with more goop. Work fast, as this stuff starts to thicken quickly. Let it cure at least 24hrs before use. Disclaimer: I haven't done this, nor installed the body, so do not know if there is room for 3 layers.


This is as far as I've gotten in the build so far. I'll update this post as I go, then move it to another thread.

The Phone Book is Here...The Phone Book is Here!!!!!...lol I was waiting at the end of the driveway with my tail wagging:lol: You can here the UPS truck 3 miles away out here:p
Couldn't grt the box opened quick enough, just had to see this body, and Wow this body literally is no wider that the buggy body. Can't wait to start my Lawn Dart practice...lol

I took all the diffs and suspension packages to work with me and found some free time to put it all together. I will have to say that compared to the EB48 all the monkey motion that moves is alot smoother in the ET48. Very happy so far. I have yet to come across anything yet that concerns me. On the contrary I am very impressed that every vehicle that Tekno has done is better than the last. Next the steering package. More to come.:batman::spidey:

I like the stock body too! If a guy were going to race in muddy or extra dirty conditions I think I would put a stock eb48 body on first to help keep crud out. My painter still has my body so I put one of the Jconcepts eb48 bodies on so I could run it at the track. It looked kind of cool, if somebody made one that would reach the rear tower it would look fine. I was real careful because I didn't want to beat up those beautiful shocks and towers. Congrats on getting your kit, now the fun part!!!

Here's a little tip for anyone building their kit for a low bite setup. You might want to lower the diff weight to 10/15/5 rather than the 20/20/10 that is stock in the kit.

That's what I found works best for me I have been running this truggy for a few weeks now and absolutely loving it by next week I will have a full setup sheet posted on here just don't want to post too early will be trying different spring sway bars shock oils and pistons this weekend

Thank you for all your feed back. It is a great help. Looking forward to your setup sheet and to see what springs you recommend.:batman::spidey:

Well I can tell you for sure that I won't be going lighter on the springs

I went with middle inside camber locations f/r (#2's), centers on all shock bottoms, #3 position on the top side, a little less droop on the rear 133mm, front 118.5mm, 3.5 toe on the rear w/ 2' kickup. lots of testing to do still though.. also 8hole pistons w/ stock oil weight seems reasonable but could go 45/35 if you like it softer.. as noted above diff fluids in kit I didn't like but I went w/ 15/20/7 for now may drop to 10/15/5 for looser conditions.

What motor are you guys running?

Tekin 1900 buggy enough for it?

Ah crap. Wish I had seen that before I built mine.