anyone run the hrc rear hub on the truck? wondering what they do for it?

I love this paint scheme!

Thanks! That's some rattle can magic right there. Lol

Hey everyone. I'm getting my truggy set up for my first race day with it. What does everyone recommend for a starting setup. Looks like the newest setup is Joe's motorama setup which won't be good on my track considering motorama had a huge straight/sweeper turn. My track is outdoor, medium grip, medium size, hard pack, bumpy, large jumps.

Tbh I would start with the kit setup and tune from there. I'm not a big fan of chasing pro's setups unless you can drive the wheels off a car like they do lol

I am running the EB48.3 with the newer recommended outdoor setup and it is dialed. I also run the ET48.3 with Dave hemenway base setup. My track is medium to low grip traction. The rear end of my truggy seems really loose and when i give a lot of throttle the front tires seem to balloon quit a bit. When i go around a 90 degree turn the rear end is everywhere. My driving style is to brake before a 180 degree turn and rotate the car with throttle. occasionally i will brake and roll through the turn. I know some have mentioned going to 12k center diff oil. I also have noticed that Joe Bornhorst runs crazy high diff oil like 15-20-10. What affect does this have on the truggy?

Are Dave and joe's oils PT oils? How does this compare to associated? I have heard that associated oils are a little thicker. would a 10k associated feel like a 12k pt?

Sorry for the long message but I appreciated any advise/information you guys can give me.

Thanks!!

I see a lot of posts about different diff oil combinations. What brand diff oil are you all using and is there a big difference in the thickness of PT oil vs Associated?

Last I knew Dave was running 10-10-7, and believe he recently jumped to 10-12-7 like my setup. I ran 10-10-7 but like you felt I was having too much ballooning of my fronts. Jumping to 12k in the middle reduced this to a tolerable level, and allowed me to still rotate on brake and on throttle, depending on what you like. Once you make this change, and if it doesn't help the loose rear end, try going up one hole on the rear tower camber link. This should get you fairly close.

I was told that AE oils are heavier than PT, and Most of tekno uses PTRC fluids, along with Dave & I. I'm almost completely switched over myself. I get them from fiercercsolutions.com .

Thanks. I'll try those changes

Are you running the stock green springs in the rear? I know that some people like the orange rear springs but I have never tried them.

My new lid.

Seeing a few folks changing out the truggy .3 steering for the buggy .4. Does this make a noticeable difference?

While the change on the .3 buggy to the new Ackerman was quite noticeable, it's more subtle on the truggy. Typically, when I make a change that I do NOT feel a definitive improvement, I will undo that change. In this case, however, I decided to leave the new .4 Ackerman on the truggy. I've had it on for about 10 races now and can't say that I've had any loss in performance in or out of a corner. Truggy has always been quicker in and out of a corner over buggy. This change did not really have any effect for better or worse.

Now, its more of simply having the same replacement parts for buggy and truggy.

My setup is designed to be brake into corner, then power out. Joe and Ryan drive more like you describe, braking before the corner and powering through. The initial kit setup is also setup for more like what you described (and is only a few changes from mine, so if it seems the correct direction, then try Joe's).

Higher diff oils do different things depending on which diff they're in, but if you generally just increase the thickness in all 3 at the same ratios, the vehicle has less traction but more stability. This is why you'll commonly see low diff fluids in vehicles where the driver likes to drive smooth like F1, so the opposite wheels don't break free but can turn different speeds easier, making corner carving better. This is also why you'll commonly see high diff fluids in vehicles where the driver likes to pin it and drift on throttle, as everything keeps going evenly and makes it easier to do so. Here's a quick over generalization for you.

Center diff is how much the vehicle has 4wd front to back, so a lower diff oil here makes things like hard braking easier to control and hard acceleration balloon the front (overdriving it and making it easier to control) at the loss of overall power. If you balloon too much, then go up in the center, if you don't balloon much and the rear seems to break free too easily on throttle, go down in the center.

Front and rear diff are similar for each end. If you go thicker, it is harder for the wheels to turn different speeds. Generally, the front is thicker than the rear, which helps the front pull the rear on power, and in a turn. Going higher in front makes this more noticeable, where you get more on power steering, but get less off power (especially when braking) steering as a result. Going lower in the rear makes the rear not have to break free to go around a tight corner, but also makes it harder to handle once the rear has come free for one reason or another, and allows for less power requirement to break it free.

In general, this will always be a good starting point. Go reasonably thick in front compared to common setups (in my case, 10k) and slightly less in the back (in my case 7k). The center can be anything in between those and work well as a starting point, but since we're in a truggy with tons of power, 10k would be the lowest I would go as a start. From there, tune as it fits your driving and track…in buggy some team folks were down to 2k at worlds in the center, and I've seen as high as 50 in the truggy working well on a track, but not for every driving style or setup. :)

Hi.I'm new with a ET48.3,can somebody explain me the difference of pistons 4x1.8 and 8x1.3 and what is better for different conditions tracks? Thanks