I think you made a great choice and will find that an aluminum servo horn is all you really need. I'd hold off buying spares or back ups until you actually break something and then go from there,

Does anyone know of a company that sales pre-painted bodies? I don't have any where inside to paint and with the weather staying all over the place I can't go outside trying to finish this truggy up so I can be completely ready for the warm days. I have tried messaging a few people and most either don't want to mess with basic paint jobs (first season racing and part time basher no sense in a pretty body) or just don't respond. Just wondered if anyone did sell pre-painted bodies for these trucks

Short answer, no, nobody makes prepainted ET48 bodies. You can always send it out to a painter such as KG and the numerous others here on rctech.

What size batteries are able to fit into the stock battery tray? I know tekno's Webster list max size at 148 long, but I already have a few batteries that are 155 long. Has anyone had luck getting this size battery to fit? Mine are HRB and goldbat soft packs.

Thanks Steve, are you saying the tray would get deformed or the battery? If I need to I may just end up 3D printing a new tray.

I think I want to run monster truck tires on this car, will the +2mm extended hexes be the only mod necessary to run the proline Badlands 1/2" offset tire and wheel combination? I am using a sensorless hobbywing max8 2200 kv combo. Am I going to run into trouble getting the gearing right with the oversize tires and higher kv motor? I am plannig to run 4s and 6s batteries.

The 1/2" offset will push the wheels further out. You wont have gearing issues as that motor is a regular sized 1/8 motor. If anything if you need to gear down, you may need to clearance the center diff brace a bit. It will be just fine with 4S, running on 6S with a wider wheel setup is going to put strain on your drive axles and your hubs / bearings. Given that the Badlands are a heavier tire than a standard Truggy race tire.

That Center Diff out drive will destroy your battery more than anything if you open up the end of your tray!

Blown Diffs Question - ET48.3
 

Hi Guys -

I posted this up as part of another post in the EB48.4 thread, but figured I might want to post here as well given it's specific to the truggy....

*I have x2 of these... and both blew a diff* - One truck blew a rear diff, the other a front diff. At least... that's what I'm assuming it is right now. I haven't torn them apart, but one was RWD only, and the other FWD only. the center drive is spinning to both ends - but the outdrives aren't.

A lot of people were puzzled by this at the track as they haven't seen a Tekno do that before. I'm confused as to what I did wrong on these? When I got the kit I had to contact Tekno because the spider gears were not moving freely on the cross pins what-so-ever. At first, Tekno denied that could even happen, but after sending them a video they sent me replacement spider gears and cross pins for both trucks. I confirmed the replacements spun freely and installed them, but yet this? Did I shim incorrectly? Is there something else I'm doing wrong?

I plan to tear them apart tomorrow. I'll update what I find but sheesh... I've never had x2 blown diffs on x2 cars in the same day! I've been building these things since my first Futaba FX-10 - not to say I didn't do something wrong, but unlikely IMO. Any ideas?

PS - I'll check when I get home to see if a set screw may have backed out. I should have spun the tires on both of the vehicles to see if the diffs were good before I rushed to ordering parts. Oh well - I'll have extra's if it's not the diffs :). Thank you in advance for your responses guys!

My Own Stupid Fault
 

Set screws on every single outdrive on every single one of my vehicles was backed out, or in the progress of backing out. It does not appear I used enough loctite, or none at all. Stupid mistake, but a quick fix!

On a fresh kit it's best to motor spray the metal parts you intend to put thread lock on. This will clean off any residual oils leftover from the machining process.

I had the same issue with a couple of the spider gears too, I just flipped them around to the cross pinst they rotated the most freely on. They seem ok now and I'm sure they will wear in smoothly.
​​​​
​​I also had to add shims in a couple places that we're not in the instructions/kit. I added .25mm shims under the wheel hexes, and in between the front spindles and the spindle carriers. The front a arms had to be sanded to allow the spindle carriers to move freely, and in the rear I sanded some of the spacers to get the rear hubs to fit nicely in the a arms and move freely.

Still overall very happy with the kit, and the result of this extra work is a very tight car.

I'll work on putting in my electronics in tonight, and I still have to see if I can get these 155mm batteries to fit.

Motor
 

Swapped over to the emulsion caps. I think who ever designed the o ring for the TKR8207 emulsion caps, should be kicked in the nuts! Those things are a pain to install in the caps. Almost like they are to large for the cap? I would just about get to the point I would give up, and it would just plop down in there like it was suppose to. Took me an hour and half to get the 4 o-rings in the caps!

Haha oh yea i had the same problem when i built my EB48.4 a while back. I was certain the o-rings were too big...

Spur and pinion?
 

what pinion tooth and spur tooth was this on???

Hi all. Took my truggy out after a year. Ive had it since 4-5 years at least, got the initial et48 version so not sure when that was released. Anyway, it still runs amazing however i realize that it has lost ride height. I have never serviced its shocks before, and don't exactly know what all I have to do in order to give the suspension a complete overhaul and make it so like it was functioning when I first built the kit. Can someone guide me as to what my process should be? What all do I need to service? Do i need to replace any items? (no damage has been incurred).

I am attaching a picture to give you an idea how its drooping further than necessary.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...4bf2b224b.jpeg

Check every shock individually by moving the suspension arm up and down. You should have some normal resistance. If one of the shocks has a problem, it will feel different and most likely show less resistance.

Make sure all shocks function properly through the full suspension range.

For the ride hight, you can adjust it with the nuts that are on the shock body and that hold the springs. Turn that nut down on each side and the truggy will lift up.

Anyone care to share the diameter of the dogbone and pin length on the TKR5296 90.5mm drive shaft doesn’t have to be a specific drive shaft.. Basic info on the outdrives if possible
Much appreciated

RCSteveH I did dremel the battery tray and glued some carbon fiber in there to protect the battery from the dogbone and center diff. You just have to make sure that the zip works well and the balance cable is not loose. I did that mod years ago and had no problems. Like that I can use longer lipo batteries, and the cog is lower. I have some olde Rhino batteries, not the most powerful lipos but still work well and these and other batteries have a snug fit. I have some HRB batteries that are a bit longer than normal ones and fit in there as well. With normal Lipos you can vary the cog, depending on the track you can place them more forward or rear. Sorry bad pics and dirty car...
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...71eb2a91f7.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...508caea0ab.jpg