NOVAK BALLISTIC 8 WITH ACTIVE 8 ESC
#1
NOVAK BALLISTIC 8 WITH ACTIVE 8 ESC
High, I`m knew to the 1/8 off road category. I just bought a Mugen MBX6, and a Active 8 with the Ballistic 8
the problem that i have is that the Motor, is getting hot, not the ESC,
I am running in a short track, with the standard car configuration Pinion 14
Other guy running in the same chassis, whit the same configuration but whit the Tekin esc and motor run with out problems of getting hot.
Do i need to modify the timing (un timing)? apart of running in a 13 teeth?
I donīt understand why the Ballistic run hotter than the Tekin. My motor reached 190 while the tekins get 150! same time, same speed, same track, in same category and same race
Any Help?
the problem that i have is that the Motor, is getting hot, not the ESC,
I am running in a short track, with the standard car configuration Pinion 14
Other guy running in the same chassis, whit the same configuration but whit the Tekin esc and motor run with out problems of getting hot.
Do i need to modify the timing (un timing)? apart of running in a 13 teeth?
I donīt understand why the Ballistic run hotter than the Tekin. My motor reached 190 while the tekins get 150! same time, same speed, same track, in same category and same race
Any Help?
#2
Tech Champion
iTrader: (168)
First question I would have is: What motor did you get (1950KV or 2650KV)?
Then: What Voltage are you running it on?
The 2650 on 4S is not really appropriate.
That said, there is still the issue that the Activ8 only runs sensored.
Maybe Novak knows something about running sensored that other Manufacturers don't, but the other manufacturers will tell you if you use sensored mode only, the motor will run hotter. The 1/8th Tekin ESC does not even have a sensored-only mode.
Then: What Voltage are you running it on?
The 2650 on 4S is not really appropriate.
That said, there is still the issue that the Activ8 only runs sensored.
Maybe Novak knows something about running sensored that other Manufacturers don't, but the other manufacturers will tell you if you use sensored mode only, the motor will run hotter. The 1/8th Tekin ESC does not even have a sensored-only mode.
#3
First question I would have is: What motor did you get (1950KV or 2650KV)?
Then: What Voltage are you running it on?
The 2650 on 4S is not really appropriate.
That said, there is still the issue that the Activ8 only runs sensored.
Maybe Novak knows something about running sensored that other Manufacturers don't, but the other manufacturers will tell you if you use sensored mode only, the motor will run hotter. The 1/8th Tekin ESC does not even have a sensored-only mode.
Then: What Voltage are you running it on?
The 2650 on 4S is not really appropriate.
That said, there is still the issue that the Activ8 only runs sensored.
Maybe Novak knows something about running sensored that other Manufacturers don't, but the other manufacturers will tell you if you use sensored mode only, the motor will run hotter. The 1/8th Tekin ESC does not even have a sensored-only mode.
#5
Thanks for the comments and sugestions.
I know is some one that is a Novak representative in this forum?? hope i can hear form him.
I know is some one that is a Novak representative in this forum?? hope i can hear form him.
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (9)
You can't run an ebuggy in 2s. The car is simply to heavy. The Novak Speed Control will work on a 2s lipo but not the motor. It needs more juice to operate efficiently. Charlie at Novak informed me to gear up a couple teeth from what a Tekin 1900 T8 would normally run even thou the ballistic is 1950kv
#8
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (7)
He said 2S lipoS, plural...maybe he meant 2 2s.
Assuming that, I am running the same setup (Mugen and activ8) and gearing and was only getting 140 on a smallish track with high traction.
Try gearing up, might help. Check gear mesh...should have play between spur and pinion.
Assuming that, I am running the same setup (Mugen and activ8) and gearing and was only getting 140 on a smallish track with high traction.
Try gearing up, might help. Check gear mesh...should have play between spur and pinion.
#10
He said 2S lipoS, plural...maybe he meant 2 2s.
Assuming that, I am running the same setup (Mugen and activ8) and gearing and was only getting 140 on a smallish track with high traction.
Try gearing up, might help. Check gear mesh...should have play between spur and pinion.
Assuming that, I am running the same setup (Mugen and activ8) and gearing and was only getting 140 on a smallish track with high traction.
Try gearing up, might help. Check gear mesh...should have play between spur and pinion.
When you say gear up, you mean use a higher pinion? I`m usin 14, should i try 15?
Thanks in advance
#12
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Some questions I have:
- Where are you topping out down the longest straight?
- Do you find you are at the higher end of your throttle range (more trigger pull) around the entire track or worse, basically full throttle around most or all of the track
- Do you have any backlash between the pinion and the spur? (can rock it slightly, not all snugged up)
- With the motor disconnected from the drivetrain (pinion not touching the spur), can you free roll the car, do you notice any binding?
Depending on your answers, can provide more help. My initial guess is its possible you are undergeared for your track conditions.
- Where are you topping out down the longest straight?
- Do you find you are at the higher end of your throttle range (more trigger pull) around the entire track or worse, basically full throttle around most or all of the track
- Do you have any backlash between the pinion and the spur? (can rock it slightly, not all snugged up)
- With the motor disconnected from the drivetrain (pinion not touching the spur), can you free roll the car, do you notice any binding?
Depending on your answers, can provide more help. My initial guess is its possible you are undergeared for your track conditions.
#13
#14
Some questions I have:
- Where are you topping out down the longest straight?
- Do you find you are at the higher end of your throttle range (more trigger pull) around the entire track or worse, basically full throttle around most or all of the track
- Do you have any backlash between the pinion and the spur? (can rock it slightly, not all snugged up)
- With the motor disconnected from the drivetrain (pinion not touching the spur), can you free roll the car, do you notice any binding?
Depending on your answers, can provide more help. My initial guess is its possible you are undergeared for your track conditions.
- Where are you topping out down the longest straight?
- Do you find you are at the higher end of your throttle range (more trigger pull) around the entire track or worse, basically full throttle around most or all of the track
- Do you have any backlash between the pinion and the spur? (can rock it slightly, not all snugged up)
- With the motor disconnected from the drivetrain (pinion not touching the spur), can you free roll the car, do you notice any binding?
Depending on your answers, can provide more help. My initial guess is its possible you are undergeared for your track conditions.
Yes I am in the higher throttle range
Yes I have backlash and the car disconnected, roll free
#15
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
Based on that, you need to go with a bigger pinion size. Target to top out towards the end of the longest straight.
From there, see how temps are and adjust gearing down. It should get your overall motor temps down.