Jym73

This is me who said that on rcgroups and in my video : https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...D-Buggy-Review

I have to do more test to give my opinion.

EDIT : in this thread (here) we can read that the 835E can use hobao/ofna hyper 7 parts, so these parts will also be compatible with the FS Racing 9.5. Imo the 835E is basicaly a FS Racing E9 with a different chassis plate as FS Racing released this car before that the 835E was on the market.

bob.less

I saw that on you tube the other day. kinda looks like some parts are compatable im not going to try it !

Jym73

Front and rear suspension and transmission are 100% compatible, same mold. The main differences are the chassis plate, the motor motor and the chassis stiffener bars.

PSD

Jym, I'm looking forward to more testing of your E9.5

Jym73

Yes, but i think i won't have the time to do more test during the next 4 weeks

I discovered that this E9.5 is also sold as MHD Gunner BL in my country, 100% same chassis this time, with spares in few webshops.

PSD

yes, it does look the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P-ep73_nTKM

it is nice to find alternative brands, increases chances of finding spare parts.
we(somebody) needs to make a cross-reference for models like this with sister brands.

mexicanzero

I've read pretty much all pages in this thread, lots of great info.
I recently got a 835 roller on a trade, so far love it. It's much tougher than my previous trucks. I fly out off 1/4 pipes at the Skatepark 10-20ft high regularly.

However my cheapy no name 2600kv motor decided to spin itself loose internally and strip the font plate threads. I'm now looking for a cheap motor, I live in Canada and hate ordering online due to annoying extra charges and currency exchange.
My local hobby shop can get me a cheap well rated 2150kv motor that I'm considering.
My question is on 3s (I'm NOT about to shell out for a 4s battery and charger or 2 2s batteries right now, my esc can also only take 3s) what's the best gearing for decent speed.
I was running 14t on the 2600kv on 3s. Would 16t be comparable?
Battery is 5000mah 50c 3s.

Thanks!

bob.less

do you know what brand and how many amps your ESC can handle ?

mexicanzero

It's a castle sidewinder
Meant for a 1/10, I know it's undersized but been good for 6 months. It'll get replaced when it blows.

bob.less

pushing an 8.5lb buggy? your lucky it lasted that long ! its a wonder you didnt toast the ESC as well ! Enough said !

mexicanzero

I didn't toast anything, temps always all good. The motor came loose internally due to weak design. It still works just threads stripped, it's currently held together with a clamp and epoxy.
When the esc (that I got free) blows I'll replace it.
Till then I'd like to know what the recommended pinion size on a 2150kv motor on 3s is.
Thanks

mexicanzero

For all intents and purposes we can pretend I have a decent 1/8 esc.

rustyus

iTrader: (1)

17t pinion and the 2150kv motor would be comparable to what you were running.

mexicanzero

Thanks a bunch!
I just realised the stock motor is 2200kv.
Anyone run it on 3s?
I know 4s is more popular I just already have 2 3s batteries that aren't very old and they aren't cheap so I'd like to use them as long as I can.

Metal One

Back from the dead, thread. Here's the deal. I'm currently in possession of an 835E with barely a scratch on it. Innards pretty much spotless. Can't keep the thing running for more than 5 minutes. A buddy bought it from another buddy who only ran it twice on 3S and I've had it ever since trying to bulletproof it for 4S.

On the first 4S run, I managed to split a front A-arm along the seam and pulled it around the hinge pin. How in the hell??? 30 years in this hobby and I've never seen that happen. The same run resulted in all 4 tires ripped off of the wheels. Ordered parts and CA. The a-arm was easy. The tires sucked. You would think that nice little groove around the edge of the wheel would provide twice the usual surface area for the rubber to stick to and the tires, once glued, would never budge again. Well... LOL!... no. Glue, test run, glue, test run, glue, test run, repeat.

Unfortunately, the next good run blew out the center and rear diffs. No crashes, no jumps, just fast transitions from asphalt to grass and the weakest diff gears I've ever seen. Teeth ground completely flat. I dunno if they were assembled poorly or if the gears are truly weaker than Tamiya's plastic diff gears but... damn. My Vorza has hundreds of runs on 4S and a few on 6S with no diff issues. Same goes for my entire collection. Can't say I've ever had to replace a diff gear in any of them but looking through this thread, it is definitely a problem with this buggy.

Ordered more parts. New diff case, gears, spur, graphite front brace and aluminum hinge pin mounts and chassis braces. All of that arrived yesterday and I'm replacing the stock screws with stainless as I go along. I've just rebuilt the center diff with an extra shim on the spur side and reinstalled it. That's when I found the rear diff slipping as well, which sucks because I already had the rear end off to add the aluminum mounts.

I was impressed when I saw the price but after spending more time with it on the bench than in the grass, I'm not so impressed anymore. Now I understand why I could buy two of them for the price of my Vorza. I would need the second one for spares. Hopefully, when I'm done, it will stay in one piece for a few packs.

Edit: Nothing I can do now but wait. Rear diff gears ground flat too. Time for yet another round of parts. Found the Ofna gears and a spare center diff on eBay.