rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Yes it fits fine.

Matt :-)

iTrader: (3)

Thank you sir

old carpet rcr

Can anyone please help me with my 3.0. Likes to roll after landing a jump not going through the air flat. I noticed Caspers buggy doing a couple of times on a you tube video posted about 4 months back. Is this inherent of a lighter buggy with a narrow chassis? Something that can't be tuned out, just better/smoother driving? Was really bothering me at the track last weekend.

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

Are they the same as the E 2.0? If so, I found them on Amain website. Where are you guys getting the pinion gears?

Is that based on track size, run temps, or how do you decide?

drepus

I've run @1900 on medium to big tracks and just adjust the gearing depending on the length of the straight. 1900 always felt like a controllable amount of power and was always enough for any jump sequence I have run into. I see too many guys running more motor than they can smoothly handle and it always leads to longer lap times.
I have not ever had heat issues even during 10 minute finals and I do not run a fan.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Yes the 3.0 and 2.0 use the same spur and mod1 pinions.

1900 Tekin is a great motor. LOTS of power and even at that some may say too much but for a lot of 8th scale conditions it is a great power band. For smaller indoor type tracks were you are looking for a little less grunt the T8i 1950 is a great motor.

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

Thank you guys!

Where do you all get your spare parts that the hobby shop doesn't carr? Springs, pistons, shock oil, etc?

drepus

You could ask them to order them in for you.

jonnymorrow

iTrader: (31)

Hey guys. In the process of clamping my 2.0 front and rear end on the 3.0 e chassis. Man I gotta say the 3.0 e chassis and its associated chassis parts have got to be some of the best and most elegant chassis parts ever designed in the history of RC cars. VERY impressed TLR!

Got-R/C?

iTrader: (1)

I'd love to but my two local shops don't carry the race kits or any of the parts I would need at the track which is 40-minutes away. So what's the next best option?..

RC8FanBoy

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys,
I just finished building my 3.0 E and I was wondering if there were any parts you would consider changing from the kit (like the 2.0's)
I was going to put aluminum rear hubs on and I was just curious if anyone had any insight
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

About the only part I would say is really good to put on is the steering servo saver upper alum arm.

JoeW

iTrader: (6)

I was hoping to get some TLR assistance real quick.

I just built my 3e last night. I put the kit springs and shock fluids in it. The stock front fluid is 37.5 and rear is 35 as you guys know. With no electrics or anything the rears feel a little stiff but probably about right. The fronts are a problem...they seem way too stiff. If you drop the front from 3-4 inches it just stops like there are no shocks....no soaking at all. When you press the fronts down it takes a decent effort and they don't spring back like they should.

Is there any instance of faulty shock fluid or will this break in?

Also, what servo horn are you guys using? I used the 22 alum TLR horn on my SCTE but it looks too short for the 8.

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

If you are looking to race this, you will want to replace the stock shock oils from the kit with purchased TLR fluid. The shock oil you buy here in the states versus what is packed in the kits is different and the stuff in the kits is very sensitive to different temps and often isn't as consistent.

JoeW

iTrader: (6)

Thanks!

So should I start with the same weight fluids, just buy the TLR fluid in the bottles?

I hope the kit diff fluids are ok to use? I hate breaking the cars down to change diff fluids...shocks are easy

Also...the TLR site does not list optional parts for the E version. Should I just look at the nitro version parts list for hop ups?

Looking at the online setup sheets...where are these 8 hole pistons (1.3 and "splits") from the Drake setup and the "up tapered" pistons from the Phend setup?

Going to use 5/7/3 diff fluids, 2.3 sway bars, kit springs and recommended shock fluid weights. And the basic Drake/Phend starting camber/shock locations etc.

Generally a hard packed outdoor rough track with some loose sand on top and in corners.