TLR 8IGHT E 3.0 THREAD

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  • Ryan or Casper,
    I'm starting my build today and have a few questions.

    When building the servo saver, do we really back the nut off 5 1/2 turns or should I lock it down? The SCTE 2.0 we locked it down tight.

    Also I'm assuming that the front clip has 10 deg. build it and 15 deg spindles like the SCTE 2.0. Is this right? On setup sheets that say 27 degs, that would be plus 2 on the hinge pin inserts (1 up and 1 down). Am I right in thinking this?

    Thanks Guys!
  • Quote: Ryan or Casper,
    I'm starting my build today and have a few questions.

    When building the servo saver, do we really back the nut off 5 1/2 turns or should I lock it down? The SCTE 2.0 we locked it down tight.

    Also I'm assuming that the front clip has 10 deg. build it and 15 deg spindles like the SCTE 2.0. Is this right? On setup sheets that say 27 degs, that would be plus 2 on the hinge pin inserts (1 up and 1 down). Am I right in thinking this?

    Thanks Guys!
    Tighten down the servo saver and back it off about 1/2 a turn. Kit setup does not assume you will use a top of the line servo that can take the abuse! If you do lock down the servo saver understand you are putting your servo at risk and should use a high end servo.

    The SCTE uses 10 deg caster blocks.

    Both cars have nominal 10 deg kickup.

    The 8ight 3.0 kit setups calls for front kick up spacers to be 1 up in front and 1 down in rear to give an extra 2 deg to the nominal 10 deg kickup and 15 deg caster.
  • Its surprising how much steering you can lose or gain from the servo saver. Mine is backed off one turn. Also if you plan on using the aluminum servo saver I'd recommend not using a aluminum servo horn. Too much metal. Use a plastic horn with the aluminum saver. Or vice versa. This will also protect your servo and make it last longer.
  • Quote: Its surprising how much steering you can lose or gain from the servo saver. Mine is backed off one turn. Also if you plan on using the aluminum servo saver I'd recommend not using a aluminum servo horn. Too much metal. Use a plastic horn with the aluminum saver. Or vice versa. This will also protect your servo and make it last longer.
    I have run metal saver arm and servo horn on my 2.0s the last two years and didn't have any major problems. Blew two servos at NorCal but the bite there was insanely high.
  • Quote: Its surprising how much steering you can lose or gain from the servo saver. Mine is backed off one turn. Also if you plan on using the aluminum servo saver I'd recommend not using a aluminum servo horn. Too much metal. Use a plastic horn with the aluminum saver. Or vice versa. This will also protect your servo and make it last longer.
    I have never heard of this logic your suggesting and would not follow it, period.
    Servo Horn in 'aluminum' and a Servo Saver Arm in 'aluminum' is the way to go and has been for a very long time.
    The give or insurance to your servos comes from properly setting your servo saver not the plastics.
  • Thanks guys,
    I'm using the Hitec 8370 titanium servo. 320oz and .10 sec. I think that servo will be alright. I'll tighten her down and back off 1/2 turn. I'm also using the Losi alum. servo horn but was going to keep the plastic servo saver arm. Do you think I need to get an alum?
  • Quote: Thanks guys,
    I'm using the Hitec 8370 titanium servo. 320oz and .10 sec. I think that servo will be alright. I'll tighten her down and back off 1/2 turn. I'm also using the Losi alum. servo horn but was going to keep the plastic servo saver arm. Do you think I need to get an alum?
    I have to say, the one upgrade I would put on this car is the alum servo saver arm. I also run an alum servo arm and haven't had any issues at all. I do expect my servo to only last for a season or season and a half though with all the driving I do.
  • Will the kit setup work for outdoor tracks? Loose, bumpy, big jumps. If not where would I start with piston/shock oil?
  • Ryan, do you have a part number for that. I will call and get one today. I think I saw some place that there are two or three different ones. Is that right?

    About the shock setup for outdoor, Loose, bumpy, and large jumps, I'm setting mine up for a track like that. I was going to use the 8 hole piston setup that is on the nitro 3.0 but go down 2.5 in weight. Does that sound right Ryan?

    Thanks Man.
  • Ok I think it is this one. TLR has it listed under the Nitro 3.0 optional parts.

    http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodID=LOSA4441
  • Got my kits this morning, starting on the build tonight!
  • Quote: Ok I think it is this one. TLR has it listed under the Nitro 3.0 optional parts.

    http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...rodID=LOSA4441
    That is the correct part and the kit setup is very good indoors. If you are going to run outdoors, I suggest either trying the nitro setup or start with 2.5wt lighter oil in the shocks and higher ride height.
  • Quote: Will the kit setup work for outdoor tracks? Loose, bumpy, big jumps. If not where would I start with piston/shock oil?
    I would give the kit setup a shot. Tons of rear traction and stable.
  • Quote: I have never heard of this logic your suggesting and would not follow it, period.
    Servo Horn in 'aluminum' and a Servo Saver Arm in 'aluminum' is the way to go and has been for a very long time.
    The give or insurance to your servos comes from properly setting your servo saver not the plastics.
    i appreciate the feedback, ive been driving since january only. as far as driving ive come a long way, the small things i may still need a tightening on. only reason i suggested this, more or less based on metal to metal can cause strain at some point, zero flex. this is just what ive figured. if im wrong please correct me
  • Quote: I would give the kit setup a shot. Tons of rear traction and stable.
    Good to know, I was just going to start looking around for how I should set mine up. I always build to kit specs first and then make slight tweaks from there.

Tags

e-buggy, eight 3.0, losi, spur gear