Originally Posted by BMenard17

All done!! well I decided to try mechanical brakes so we will see if it will drive like the nitro. Also need a extension wire for the servo, longer motor wires and the ofna servo horn to match the front.


Rear of the chassis notch at the very end and removal of droop ear.



Front needs very little, may have to remove some of the droop ear but I chose to leave it because if I cut it off at all there will be no place or way to put the droop screw on the chassis so Im happy the way it is for now.



Remove the keys one to the right is gone working on left in the pic.

Originally Posted by JDJamminX1

(JD812)
Electric Conversion for D812

This is a write up of what I did to get the nitro D812 converted over to electric with great results. This was a rush job as I wanted to get something going ASAP. If you have any alternatives to make this better, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

Parts you will need:
Motor Mount #101674
Center Diff Plate #101673
Radio Box # 103674 or WP Radio Box #107377
Battery Holder #103675
Diff Fixing Plate #101016
Locking Washers #96705
Battery Tray Screws #100550

This was not a hard build. Just little mods to make things fit and you are good to go.
Motor Mount:
The motor mount from the Trophy Flux Series will bolt right up to the diff mounting holes in the chassis. The only mod you will need to do is cut at the lower curved section towards the stone guards as this get in the way of the screw that secures it. I went ahead and shaved off most of the excess sections of the mount that are not needed to try and make it lighter. Also the little wire hold down tab was removed to not interfere with the battery box, and keep things more center lined. You will also need to use the bottom diff spacer from the original diff, this will prevent the spur from poking out of the chassis. If you use a 46 or lower spur you should be good to not use them.

Radio Box:
This also bolts right up to the chassis with the mounting points for the servo. The last screw hole that the RX box goes to is not in the chassis. Since this was a rush job and it was very close to the hole that was in the chassis, I decided that it was not needed. I have seen some flex in the box from servo load, but It has not affected the performance. You can put some servo tape on the underside of the RX box to prevent it from moving.
Center Diff Housing:
In order for the front plastic diff housing to fit with the RX box, the section that has a taper needed to be removed.

Battery Holder:
This is probably the hard part as you will need to drill and tap the chassis for this to fit. Drill used was a 4.2, and for the Tap I used a M5x0.8. If you can’t get a 4.2 drill bit you can also use a #19 drill bit. Place the tray in the desired position on the chassis. I went as far forward as possible to have better steering. You can place it in any position on this side of the chassis. But keep in mind that you will need to leave room in the rear for your ESC. Once you line up the holes on the chassis, check the bottom of the mounting holes on the chassis vs. the raised sections in the chassis. You might need to dremel off some material in the sections that are interfering with having the battery tray sit flush on the chassis. Once you have your final position, mark where the holes are going to be. Drill and tap the holes for the M5 Screws to go into the tray and into the chassis, just like how the Vorza has its setup. You might have to add several washers to each screw in order to not have them sticking out of the bottom of the chassis. ESC is mounted using double amount of servo tape. 3M double sided tape from Home Depot works great.

Also cut battery holder in half to keep it more centerline, and not interfere with the stone guard.

Originally Posted by Kellen Guthrie

Finally done. Here's the electric conversion. Wiring was actually not too difficult at all.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11791154-post1191.html

Originally Posted by GrimReminder

On a side note I spoke with Danny and Mattew @ Tekno R/C and they should have the word about a Tekno V4 in about a month or so for the D812. The D8 Tekno V4 needs very little mods to work on the new D812, that being said I don't think it will be long before a new conversion comes out.

Good job on your conversions guys!

I would like to also mention that I really like the new look on this body. Can you guys with the Tekno V4 comment on how it fits the chassis? By the looks of it, it appears to be to wide.

Originally Posted by blade329

Nice conversion. I'm salivating at the idea of a D812e.

Originally Posted by "Smiley"

Tekno..

Originally Posted by nv529

I'm using the following on my conversion every part is "bolt on" no mods/dremel work needed.

Elite RC D8 motor mount With the Elite RC motor mount, make sure you use the D812 kit supplied 1mm washers placed under the diff assembly to prevent the spur gear from sticking out of the chassis bottom. See attached photo, Red ovals are the washers need, and blue lines indicates to dremel flat the side tabs on the washer to fit under the Elite RC motor mount.


RC monster D8 battery tray

HPI Vorza radio box

HPI Vorza center Diff top deck not necessary for the conversion, stock center diff top will work.

Ofna NEXX8 plastic spur gear Again, not necessary for the conversion, stock spur will work, however if you do want to run this plastic spur you'll need to dremel the slot opening on the chassis for the plastic spur gear to fit correctly and use the Vorza center diff top deck listed.