Hobbyking 60A ESC
02-11-2013, 07:14 AM
#31
Tech Rookie
I saw no difference whether I used the HW or HK software to adjust it.
I'd love to do a comparison, but I'm not about to buy three, seemingly identical ESCs to do it. If someone has some pictures of the other ESCs, I could do the comparison.
The more experienced people at the track use a 69/36 setup... I'm thinking about sneaking up to that - go get used to the faster speeds and lower torque.
I'd love to do a comparison, but I'm not about to buy three, seemingly identical ESCs to do it. If someone has some pictures of the other ESCs, I could do the comparison.
The more experienced people at the track use a 69/36 setup... I'm thinking about sneaking up to that - go get used to the faster speeds and lower torque.
02-11-2013, 02:05 PM
#32
I saw no difference whether I used the HW or HK software to adjust it.
I'd love to do a comparison, but I'm not about to buy three, seemingly identical ESCs to do it. If someone has some pictures of the other ESCs, I could do the comparison.
The more experienced people at the track use a 69/36 setup... I'm thinking about sneaking up to that - go get used to the faster speeds and lower torque.
I'd love to do a comparison, but I'm not about to buy three, seemingly identical ESCs to do it. If someone has some pictures of the other ESCs, I could do the comparison.
The more experienced people at the track use a 69/36 setup... I'm thinking about sneaking up to that - go get used to the faster speeds and lower torque.
At my track you need as much torque as possible and top end isn't as important especially with 17.5 blinky. Everyone sets their cars up to clear some of the bigger jumps. Glad we had someone test out the X-Car ESC. I'm excited for mine to arrive now
02-11-2013, 11:11 PM
#33
Yep,
It's brother (or sister) is in the B4. I ran it in a beginner's race and won (I don't think that beating a bunch of kids is really a true test of anything, tho!) I've got the Turnigy Trackstar 17.5 running on a 69 spur, and 29 pinion. Both the ESC and motor are barely warm at with this combination.
I would say that it's very smooth. I was running a 19T brushed motor before this and I would say that's it is just as smooth as brushed (maybe moreso!) Reverse is a little funny, though. Sometimes I have a difficult time getting it to work. It almost seems that you can't have reverse unless you brake first. If you let the car roll to a stop using drag brake, hitting reverse does nothing. I find it takes 3 or 4 tries before I can get it to reverse.
I also haven't figured out what the button next to the power switch is.
It's brother (or sister) is in the B4. I ran it in a beginner's race and won (I don't think that beating a bunch of kids is really a true test of anything, tho!) I've got the Turnigy Trackstar 17.5 running on a 69 spur, and 29 pinion. Both the ESC and motor are barely warm at with this combination.
I would say that it's very smooth. I was running a 19T brushed motor before this and I would say that's it is just as smooth as brushed (maybe moreso!) Reverse is a little funny, though. Sometimes I have a difficult time getting it to work. It almost seems that you can't have reverse unless you brake first. If you let the car roll to a stop using drag brake, hitting reverse does nothing. I find it takes 3 or 4 tries before I can get it to reverse.
I also haven't figured out what the button next to the power switch is.
02-12-2013, 01:47 AM
#35
, grabbed a couple bluebird servo's while at it 
cheers gopes
02-12-2013, 02:32 AM
#36
As for gearing I would say aim for around 5.2-5.5 FDR depending on you motor timing and the rest of your ESC setup
02-12-2013, 01:59 PM
#37
Tech Rookie
I use the USB connection, not the programming box. It's really easy (so long as you don't forget to plug the ESC lead into the USB lead, like I did) That was 10 minutes I'll never get back!
Off to the races tonight!
Off to the races tonight!
02-12-2013, 03:25 PM
#39
I am using the trackstar 100 amp with the 17.5 motor as well. The program card is very easy to use. I have a problem with the reverse as the card doesn't cover the percentage. I have been running this since July and no issues. It is a tough unit and the 17.5 is fast and torquey. It will get hot if you max everything out.
02-12-2013, 07:11 PM
#40
I am using the trackstar 100 amp with the 17.5 motor as well. The program card is very easy to use. I have a problem with the reverse as the card doesn't cover the percentage. I have been running this since July and no issues. It is a tough unit and the 17.5 is fast and torquey. It will get hot if you max everything out.
Glad to hear another person is happy with the setup. However I'm fairly sure any motor/ESC will get hot if you max everything out
02-13-2013, 06:02 AM
#41
Tech Rookie
Frustrating night, but the motor/ESC combo worked like a charm!
Someone knocked a piece of brick holding up a jump onto the back straight and it was impossible to see... I didn't see it and ripped off a rear A-arm. Then came back and ripped off the front! Lost a pinion gear on the second qualifier, but still managed to qualify sixth (of 9). After replacing the rear A-arm, right before the main, I forgot to set the gear mesh. (because the motor had to come out in order to get to the bolt that holds the rear hinge pin in.) So then I stripped the spur on the second lap of the main.
I have a B4 classic and was keeping up with the middle of the pack. (Mostly Kyosho's and B4.1s)
After stripping the spur, I bought a new one and changed to the 69/36 combo. Motor was still pretty cool after running for 20 minutes. Seemed to lose a little torque...
Someone knocked a piece of brick holding up a jump onto the back straight and it was impossible to see... I didn't see it and ripped off a rear A-arm. Then came back and ripped off the front! Lost a pinion gear on the second qualifier, but still managed to qualify sixth (of 9). After replacing the rear A-arm, right before the main, I forgot to set the gear mesh. (because the motor had to come out in order to get to the bolt that holds the rear hinge pin in.) So then I stripped the spur on the second lap of the main.
I have a B4 classic and was keeping up with the middle of the pack. (Mostly Kyosho's and B4.1s)
After stripping the spur, I bought a new one and changed to the 69/36 combo. Motor was still pretty cool after running for 20 minutes. Seemed to lose a little torque...
02-24-2013, 02:04 PM
#42
Quick question, Been out for a long time and all this programing stuff is new to me. What is the "factory" settings and is there a way to program without the card? I forgot to order one!
03-10-2013, 07:03 PM
#43
well my first hk 60a fried itself , installed in an rc10b2 that I am preparing for some vintage racing . installed an that uploaded hobbywing 930stock an tested on street and all was good . later went to set up with the reciever I was to use for this car turned on power a little elect burn smell and no power . opened it up and part of the circuit had burnt up just after the on off switch . had bought 2 so plugged thr bottom board of thr new one in and it runs well . fingers crossed it does not die a similar death in the near future
11-07-2013, 02:17 AM
#44
Tech Apprentice
I've got one of these ESCs and am a little confused by the firmwares available for it.
Does anyone know what each one does?
In the Hobbywing USB software, I get the following options for firmware.
V3.0_110930_MOD
V3_508_No_Timing
V3.0_110930STOCK
V1.10_090323a_m
V1.0_090205_MOD
V1_508_zero_rev
Thanks in advance for any help.
Tony.
Does anyone know what each one does?
In the Hobbywing USB software, I get the following options for firmware.
V3.0_110930_MOD
V3_508_No_Timing
V3.0_110930STOCK
V1.10_090323a_m
V1.0_090205_MOD
V1_508_zero_rev
Thanks in advance for any help.
Tony.
11-07-2013, 07:33 AM
#45
Tech Apprentice
Not to worry, I found the "manual" which explains the V3 firmwares.