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TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread

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Old 06-21-2018, 08:32 AM
  #9421  
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Thanks for the info Josh.Its actually for my scbe but the scte 2.0 one should fit.I think I will go with the carbon as I am going to get carbon shock towers when I have some spare cash.The drag link looks good but unfortunately I am in the UK.
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:11 AM
  #9422  
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Default TLR332014 SCTE Aluminum Rear Hex Set (+0.5mm Width)

Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
The kit comes with clamping hexes. If you started with the RTR, then the part number for the standard clamping hexes are LOSB3493. We also offer wider ones for the rear if you want them, that part number is TLR332014.
Can I use this TLR 332014 HEX Set front and rear? I have PL Gladiators that I want to throw in but the std hexes get stuck, I need wider ones.
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Old 12-17-2018, 02:36 PM
  #9423  
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doing some reading love this truck

Last edited by chucko; 12-17-2018 at 06:27 PM.
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Old 12-28-2018, 12:45 PM
  #9424  
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well after being sidelined for 4 yrs and closing my track due to health and things that go bump in the night.... My losi 2.0 e truck it the funnest thing... but its old... What is the best out there for racing now a days ?? NOT to start any thing you can PM me if you feel the need . Thanks
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Old 01-19-2019, 08:26 AM
  #9425  
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Ok guys help me out here . I have the full King Headz motor/diff mount with double bearings on both sides . I ordered the TLR 332015 center drive line set and I cant see a way to make it work with the KH mount . Has anyone else ever ran into this issue ?
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Old 01-19-2019, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastslash View Post
Ok guys help me out here . I have the full King Headz motor/diff mount with double bearings on both sides . I ordered the TLR 332015 center drive line set and I cant see a way to make it work with the KH mount . Has anyone else ever ran into this issue ?
YOU might have to go with the 20.2 or 3 shafts take a measure and see how much shorter or longer you need it and order . I converted my 2 0 to a 3 and it changed a lot of stuff good luck
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Old 01-21-2019, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
YOU might have to go with the 20.2 or 3 shafts take a measure and see how much shorter or longer you need it and order . I converted my 2 0 to a 3 and it changed a lot of stuff good luck
Thank you !!

I spoke with a friend with the same car as mine and found that he runs the LOSB3576 lightened out drives on his with the KH . I am going to see if I can use them with the TLR332015center dog bone set up . Dont think they will but I'll have a look.
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Old 01-21-2019, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastslash View Post
Thank you !!

I spoke with a friend with the same car as mine and found that he runs the LOSB3576 lightened out drives on his with the KH . I am going to see if I can use them with the TLR332015center dog bone set up . Dont think they will but I'll have a look.
I can't say for sure that the lightened center outdrives won't work with the dogbone setup in the SCTE but ican say for sure they didn't work with the dogbone setup in a Ten-MT because they are longer than the outdrives that are standard with the dogbone setup.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:28 AM
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Ok new issue ..I'm trying to get my ride height set up correctly . The issue is I have the T-Bone Racing bumpers that cover the bottom of the truck on the front and rear and throws the ride height out of wack . The truck handles pretty good but at the local track there is 1 jump that causes me to lawn dart if I dont hit it just perfect . I figured I'd play with ride height and the shocks a little and move my battery mounts back 1 hole. I wanted to start with 1 thing at a time and I'm stuck at ride height .lol.
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fastslash View Post
Ok new issue ..I'm trying to get my ride height set up correctly . The issue is I have the T-Bone Racing bumpers that cover the bottom of the truck on the front and rear and throws the ride height out of wack . The truck handles pretty good but at the local track there is 1 jump that causes me to lawn dart if I dont hit it just perfect . I figured I'd play with ride height and the shocks a little and move my battery mounts back 1 hole. I wanted to start with 1 thing at a time and I'm stuck at ride height .lol.
I tried the parts mentioned but if your racing it get rid of the after market parts and go with stock stuff.. all you need is springs and good oils. set ride at 27 to 29 mm. I did something on my front bumper that has lasted yrs with out it breaking ..
you see the front end two tubes with ties that adsorb the shock and it saves the parts.
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Old 01-22-2019, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by chucko View Post
I tried the parts mentioned but if your racing it get rid of the after market parts and go with stock stuff.. all you need is springs and good oils. set ride at 27 to 29 mm. I did something on my front bumper that has lasted yrs with out it breaking ..
you see the front end two tubes with ties that adsorb the shock and it saves the parts.
I think your right I need to get Stock Bumpers
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Old 01-23-2019, 07:55 AM
  #9432  
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great idea on the bumpers
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Old 01-23-2019, 02:31 PM
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New question..Does anyone on the 2.0 page know if the front arms and 15 degree casters from a 3.0 will work on a 2.0?? I asked on the 3.0 thread and didnt get any love lol
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Old 02-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 1fastslash View Post
New question..Does anyone on the 2.0 page know if the front arms and 15 degree casters from a 3.0 will work on a 2.0?? I asked on the 3.0 thread and didnt get any love lol
yes they work. also your in Co.... warm it up. cold breaks arms. diffs work better when warm,shocks work better when warmed up. I live in temps where it can get to 12 below. I use 22 oils in my shocks when it really cold and 40 when its 78 or hotter same with diffs. if your racing indoors softer works better for me but guys will tell you they are running 45 and they are playing with you.

Last edited by chucko; 02-09-2019 at 08:21 AM. Reason: forgot to add something
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