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Old 02-23-2014, 08:54 PM
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Just about finished my build, planning on using the dunsford set up. I got an rx8 gen 2 and looking to hook it up to Tekin sc4 550 4.5 or thunder power 550 4.5. What kind of timing do I have to do to get this baby humming? Do I go with a 12t or higher for pinion? Plan on doing most of my racing at Hot Rods. I have put 5/5/3 in the diggs, what's recommended for shock oil? And any other tips u can throw in there, I'd most appreciate. U guys rock, the rc community is like no other. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by nEoNidas View Post
Just about finished my build, planning on using the dunsford set up. I got an rx8 gen 2 and looking to hook it up to Tekin sc4 550 4.5 or thunder power 550 4.5. What kind of timing do I have to do to get this baby humming? Do I go with a 12t or higher for pinion? Plan on doing most of my racing at Hot Rods. I have put 5/5/3 in the diggs, what's recommended for shock oil? And any other tips u can throw in there, I'd most appreciate. U guys rock, the rc community is like no other. Thanks in advance.
Tekin suggested turning the can timing to zero and then run timing profile 4. Depending on your track size probably a 12 or 13. Shock oils i would run #3 pistons all the way around with 30 front 25 rear. Then dunford setup uses 575 the latest one does. If your building the kit do not use the kit oils as they are not correct.
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Old 02-24-2014, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Slippery Dan View Post
Anyone ever have "crunchy" feeling in their diff after building it?

I have torn it down and rechecked everything and it is assembled correctly.

It almost seems as if the diff case is too short and it is jamming the orbital gears up. If I loosen the cover screws up a bit it is smooth but of course then all of the diff fluid will leak out.

Will the gears perhaps free up after use or should I double the gasket to gain more clearance?
I had this issue with one of my cases. I switched it with another case and the problem was solved not sure if the case was warped or molded incorrectly.
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Old 02-24-2014, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DRRC View Post
Have the front diff crunchy and the rear diff like butter
Will run it first and see if it is better
It may seat with a little running. Sometimes the square spacers do not get fully seated and this can make the diff feel rough.

Originally Posted by nEoNidas View Post
Just about finished my build, planning on using the dunsford set up. I got an rx8 gen 2 and looking to hook it up to Tekin sc4 550 4.5 or thunder power 550 4.5. What kind of timing do I have to do to get this baby humming? Do I go with a 12t or higher for pinion? Plan on doing most of my racing at Hot Rods. I have put 5/5/3 in the diggs, what's recommended for shock oil? And any other tips u can throw in there, I'd most appreciate. U guys rock, the rc community is like no other. Thanks in advance.
I would try the dunford setup fully. It has been a really good starting point in most conditions. We only really modify it when we run high bite blue groove (sugar or HRH dry track for big events ect.)
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:38 AM
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im looking to convert my MIP chassis back to 2.0 style. i just got a used bce chassis of here and im trying to find what parts ill exactly need. im thinking just the battery box and maybe the chassis braces? i have some cabon towers but they are 1.0 , different right ?
im sure once im home and have them side by side i can tell, but im doing a little shopping at work today..

Last edited by AlanHall; 02-28-2014 at 05:07 AM.
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by PYRO689 View Post
Question for Casper or Ryan, (or anyone else with input)
I see you both are sponsored by Venom for your batteries. The 5800 they have are at a 70C rating. Question is with your experience at what point, if any is overkill in the C category? What I have noticed as the C rating goes up the mAh goes up along with the weight of the battery. While shopping for batteries I have seen the C rating as high as 100.
Has there been any independent comparisons on the batteries that anyone could refer me to?
Looking forward to hearing input.

Ken
SCTE is half way built doing a little bit at a time. Will have it ready for this weekend
Lol currently read up to post 5041 got about 1000 more lots of great info.
I would say for this car Higher C is better. Yes you are right typically higher C rating and higher Mah generally mean heavier battery. For the SCTE (or any 4wd SC for that matter) good batteries are important due to the massive amp draw these cars demand from batteries. We are not using the newer Venom 7000mah 70C packs which are only a few grams heavier then our 5800 70C batteries were. Extra runtime makes sure the 10 min mains are not a problem.

higher C rating typically means lower internal resistance so more punch and lower battery temps.

Venom batteries IMO are under rated for there "C" level compared to other batteries I have used or from feedback I have recieved from others who have tried my batteries. I have been VERY pleased with the performance and durability of the Venom packs and would highly recommned them to anyone looking for batteries. Not saying they are the only good batteries out there but I have had tremendous luck with my cells and cannot complain one bit about them.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
I'm having a problem with the LF binding under full compression. There's a sharp left hander after a big jump on the track. About 50% of the time the LF will stay compressed for 10-15 feet after the jump. I've checked everything I know of and can't figure it out.

Removed shocks and the front suspension is very floppy, no binding at all. I'm running Dunfords setup except for a different front kickup. 1 Front up 1 back down. I feel like it's coming from the 2mm of bump steer I have added like on Dunsfords setup. If I'm landing with the wheels turned could it be binding that way? I've tried to make it bind by hand and just can't do it. Any suggestion on where to look next?
I have seen similar problems when the nut retaining the top of the shock was too tight. Loosening it 1/4 of a turn solved the issue. Maybe if the little bushing and/or the shock standoff gets filled with dirt it can cause similar binding so cleaning them may help as well.
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:13 PM
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Was time to get new bering...

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Old 02-24-2014, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by fredmotokx View Post
Was time to get new bering...

some grease might help too haha
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Old 02-24-2014, 02:55 PM
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Did you fill the box with graphite?
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post

I would try the dunford setup fully. It has been a really good starting point in most conditions. We only really modify it when we run high bite blue groove (sugar or HRH dry track for big events ect.)
How does the setup fair on dusty,dry,no traction scenario?

Also. What is the difference in using the inner and outer hole on the metal TLR servo horn?
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:14 PM
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What pinion would you guys recommend for a RX8 with 4k pro4 motor?

Thanks.
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Slippery Dan View Post
What pinion would you guys recommend for a RX8 with 4k pro4 motor?

Thanks.
14-16 depending on track size
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:28 AM
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Originally Posted by fredmotokx View Post
Was time to get new bering...

LOL I had a bearing give away too, it was spectacular.
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by fredmotokx View Post
Was time to get new bering...

yikes !
Those case and gears are thirst of grease. put some high pressure black grease on it.
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