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Old 02-19-2014, 10:35 AM
  #6211  
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I am having problems with the screw in the diffs of the 2.0
they are stripping when tightened
What screws do you use as replacement?

I ran scte 1.0 then the tekno and felt the tekno was better but there are times it becomes harder to drive
hence I have moved to scte 2.0
Still dont know the difference but a local fast guy has been winning with the scte 2.0 and says there is a big difference, just the weight difference benefits the electronics in the losi
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by bashdj View Post
As said, use the HPI Z449 screws they are a proven fix to the problem!
Enjoy your 2.0!
got it
and also pretapping it before building will help because of the tightness
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Old 02-19-2014, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DRRC View Post
I ran scte 1.0 then the tekno and felt the tekno was better but there are times it becomes harder to drive
Could you elaborate on this? How was it harder to drive?
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Old 02-19-2014, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by uclabruins89 View Post
Could you elaborate on this? How was it harder to drive?
It was just inconsistent I noticed this with my lap times
Another guy also posted something like this a few weeks back

What I noticed was I was fast first few weeks and got inconsistent
Don't know if it was the car or the track being rutted up
So I replaced all oils and still was not happy
Changed setups and could not find the one I was fast with
Even changed motor, rcshox shock pistons, body with air guards or with out
Also the tail happy attitude over big jumps was killing my times when landing bad

Another racer also noticed this and he has changed to 2.0 and he is winning most races while I am in second or third
I have nothing but respect for tekno and their company but I think I am just a losi guy deep inside so going back to the darkside
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:20 PM
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I'm having a problem with the LF binding under full compression. There's a sharp left hander after a big jump on the track. About 50% of the time the LF will stay compressed for 10-15 feet after the jump. I've checked everything I know of and can't figure it out.

Removed shocks and the front suspension is very floppy, no binding at all. I'm running Dunfords setup except for a different front kickup. 1 Front up 1 back down. I feel like it's coming from the 2mm of bump steer I have added like on Dunsfords setup. If I'm landing with the wheels turned could it be binding that way? I've tried to make it bind by hand and just can't do it. Any suggestion on where to look next?

I'm thinking about trying the mip pistons to speed up rebound. My MIP chassis doesn't do this and I'm running the mip pistons.
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Old 02-19-2014, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
I'm having a problem with the LF binding under full compression. There's a sharp left hander after a big jump on the track. About 50% of the time the LF will stay compressed for 10-15 feet after the jump. I've checked everything I know of and can't figure it out.

Removed shocks and the front suspension is very floppy, no binding at all. I'm running Dunfords setup except for a different front kickup. 1 Front up 1 back down. I feel like it's coming from the 2mm of bump steer I have added like on Dunsfords setup. If I'm landing with the wheels turned could it be binding that way? I've tried to make it bind by hand and just can't do it. Any suggestion on where to look next?

I'm thinking about trying the mip pistons to speed up rebound. My MIP chassis doesn't do this and I'm running the mip pistons.
I have only seen two things cause this and one is very odd. The first is a bent shock shaft and likely the culprit. The second and odd one is if the screws holding your bead lock ring on come loose, sometimes they can grab other parts and bind things up.
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:39 PM
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Bent shock shaft makes complete sense. I will tear into it tonight and check it out. Thanks for some direction
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
I'm having a problem with the LF binding under full compression. There's a sharp left hander after a big jump on the track. About 50% of the time the LF will stay compressed for 10-15 feet after the jump. I've checked everything I know of and can't figure it out.

Removed shocks and the front suspension is very floppy, no binding at all. I'm running Dunfords setup except for a different front kickup. 1 Front up 1 back down. I feel like it's coming from the 2mm of bump steer I have added like on Dunsfords setup. If I'm landing with the wheels turned could it be binding that way? I've tried to make it bind by hand and just can't do it. Any suggestion on where to look next?

I'm thinking about trying the mip pistons to speed up rebound. My MIP chassis doesn't do this and I'm running the mip pistons.
One other thing to check is the body, my Tekno did this exact same thing and the tire was getting hung up in the fender well. It wasnt noticeable at first, but while driving it I would see the tire get hung up in the body after a double into a 180 turn. I trimmed about 1/4" off the fenders and all was well again.
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Old 02-19-2014, 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post
Bent shock shaft makes complete sense. I will tear into it tonight and check it out. Thanks for some direction
Best way to check is to roll the shaft on a piece of glass. Your's is probably bent enough to see with your eyes but you'll be able to see small amounts of tweak by rolling on glass.
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by potatobed409 View Post

I'm thinking about trying the mip pistons to speed up rebound. My MIP chassis doesn't do this and I'm running the mip pistons.
I tried the mip pistons with a faster rebound. Speeding up rebound makes the truck roll too easily and you get something like a traction roll. But that's me...
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Old 02-19-2014, 04:32 PM
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sounds like you had the wrong oil, traction roll would be on the compression side of things not rebound.
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Old 02-19-2014, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10 View Post
sounds like you had the wrong oil, traction roll would be on the compression side of things not rebound.
The inside shocks are in rebound. It's not just the outside shocks that have an effect.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I have only seen two things cause this and one is very odd. The first is a bent shock shaft and likely the culprit. The second and odd one is if the screws holding your bead lock ring on come loose, sometimes they can grab other parts and bind things up.
I checked the shock shaft and perfectly straight. I'm pretty sure the body isn't binding in anyway.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:32 PM
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id love how my 2.0 ran. but it always frustating to see my wheel coming off even i nut em tightly. and i realize my inner hex chipped out, how to fix this problems, coz it happens over and over.
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Old 02-19-2014, 07:39 PM
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I freed up my front sway bars and I'm wondering if that could be it. I went from putting the sway bars into the arm mounts till they where flush with the front. When doing that the short plastic arm was slightly bent back causing a little binding. Now I put them in so the front mounts are pretty much straight up and down threw the entire movement of the front suspension.

If landing hard off a jump to turning 180 degrees could cause the front right to stay under load and retard the rebound of the front left??
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