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TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread


Old 08-05-2013, 08:41 AM
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Default TLR SCTE 2.0 ROAR NATIONAL CHAMPION

Congrats the Dakotah Phend and the TLR SCTE 2.0 for winning the ROAR National Championships this weekend!

Once again proving the SCTE is the best out there.
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Old 08-05-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Congrats the Dakotah Phend and the TLR SCTE 2.0 for winning the ROAR National Championships this weekend!

Once again proving the SCTE is the best out there.
Congrats to Dakotah (fellow MidWesterner) and TLR.

I have one slight concern with the 2.0:

When steering to the left, I cannot seem to get full throw. The steering knuckle is about a few millimeters away from getting to the caster block.

When I turn up my EPA higher, it appears the steering tie rod (for the servo) bumps up against the drag link -- not allowing the full throw. Steering to the right does not cause this concern b/c the steering tie rod goes away from the drag link. I've even dremelled down the rod end a bit, but it still bumps up against the drag link.

Thx!
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Congrats to Dakotah (fellow MidWesterner) and TLR.

I have one slight concern with the 2.0:

When steering to the left, I cannot seem to get full throw. The steering knuckle is about a few millimeters away from getting to the caster block.

When I turn up my EPA higher, it appears the steering tie rod (for the servo) bumps up against the drag link -- not allowing the full throw. Steering to the right does not cause this concern b/c the steering tie rod goes away from the drag link. I've even dremelled down the rod end a bit, but it still bumps up against the drag link.

Thx!
I haven't ever had issues getting full throw from this vehicle. I can tell you some tips, one being that they servo horn should be angled slightly towards the rear so you don't hit the servo case when it moves forward. Also, there will always be a more positive natural lock to the right due to the right side bellcrank being what is connected to the actual servo. The only time I have seen people have the issue you are describing is when their steering turnbuckles are not of equal length. Check to make sure those are the same length.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Congrats to Dakotah (fellow MidWesterner) and TLR.

I have one slight concern with the 2.0:

When steering to the left, I cannot seem to get full throw. The steering knuckle is about a few millimeters away from getting to the caster block.

When I turn up my EPA higher, it appears the steering tie rod (for the servo) bumps up against the drag link -- not allowing the full throw. Steering to the right does not cause this concern b/c the steering tie rod goes away from the drag link. I've even dremelled down the rod end a bit, but it still bumps up against the drag link.

Thx!
I would have to look at my truck to fully understand what you are saying but we do know that with some servo cases the servo arm can push the steering link into the servo case depending on the case design and the servo arm you are using. You can lengthen the servo link a little and move the arm back a "notch" on the servo spline and this can help resolve this issue we have seen a couple times if that makes sense. Sounds like you may have found another spot were things might make contact though?
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
For those running big, outdoor, low-traction, dusty, dirt tracks, where are you liking your droop set? Are you setting with the droop screws or shocks? thanks for any advice
I would hope they post it...get a copy of Dakota Phend's setup from the ROAR eNats, your description is exactly what I would have called the track they raced on on Sunday.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:59 AM
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yeah, his setup for that would be interesting. I loved the 4 wheel drifting action in the main.
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Old 08-05-2013, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper View Post
I would have to look at my truck to fully understand what you are saying but we do know that with some servo cases the servo arm can push the steering link into the servo case depending on the case design and the servo arm you are using. You can lengthen the servo link a little and move the arm back a "notch" on the servo spline and this can help resolve this issue we have seen a couple times if that makes sense. Sounds like you may have found another spot were things might make contact though?

Appreciate the responses Casper/Ryan. I believe I have the servo arm one notch forward -- I'll move it back one notch and make sure the steering tierods are of equal length.

One more quick question. What size drill bit would you recommend to drill out the fr/rr arms (maybe even a touch bigger than the hinge pin).

Thx again!
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Appreciate the responses Casper/Ryan.


One more quick question. What size drill bit would you recommend to drill out the fr/rr arms (maybe even a touch bigger than the hinge pin).

Thx again!
Get a 3.5 mm reamer made just for that purpose.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rm-Reamer-35mm
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:24 PM
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#28 bit is what you want.


Originally Posted by skrichter View Post
Appreciate the responses Casper/Ryan. I believe I have the servo arm one notch forward -- I'll move it back one notch and make sure the steering tierods are of equal length.

One more quick question. What size drill bit would you recommend to drill out the fr/rr arms (maybe even a touch bigger than the hinge pin).

Thx again!
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:29 PM
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Looking at mounting/wiring options for my RX8G2 and I'm thinking about wiring the servo lead under the ESC by making a gap with the DS tape wide enough for the wire and placing 2 additional strips perpendicular to it in the recessed area of the chassis. My only concern is heat, has anyone tried this?

Many Thanks!
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Old 08-05-2013, 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by RC-Rick View Post
Looking at mounting/wiring options for my RX8G2 and I'm thinking about wiring the servo lead under the ESC by making a gap with the DS tape wide enough for the wire and placing 2 additional strips perpendicular to it in the recessed area of the chassis. My only concern is heat, has anyone tried this?

Many Thanks!
There shouldn't be any concern with heat in this instance. There is also room under the servo so you can go straight across with it.
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Old 08-05-2013, 02:20 PM
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That's exactly the route I'm considering. Thanks!

Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
There shouldn't be any concern with heat in this instance. There is also room under the servo so you can go straight across with it.
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Old 08-05-2013, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Congrats the Dakotah Phend and the TLR SCTE 2.0 for winning the ROAR National Championships this weekend!

Once again proving the SCTE is the best out there.
+1 My boy gets to race with him from time to time its good for him to watch and learn from one of the best.
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Old 08-05-2013, 05:34 PM
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.. Truck is on rails....
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Old 08-05-2013, 06:25 PM
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Default ANOTHER 2.0 Victory

Who's this Doug Nielson fella.LOL Pro 4 ocrc pro 4 series champion.

Congrats "Casper"
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