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Old 05-29-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
I have to say, at LEAST go to the 5 in the rear. You can get away with 5/5/5, but you need the extra grip coming out of the corner to settle the rear end with the extra steering the truck should have now.

I have not run this setup around a 2 hole setup and given what I did with the 4 hole setup, I have no idea what I would do and I need to try it. I am still refining the 4 hole setup and think it may even need lighter oil in the rear especially when cold.

I am just trying to get data out to anyone who may be interested as soon as I have it.
About the new setup. Silly question. How do you get rear hexes spaced out .5mm? Also, what are the "button head pads" that it's referring to?
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by blade329 View Post
About the new setup. Silly question. How do you get rear hexes spaced out .5mm? Also, what are the "button head pads" that it's referring to?
You place shims between the pin that drives the hex and the bearing of .5mm on each side.

As for the button head pad, you remove the button head screws that are in the chassis as droop screw pads.
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Old 05-29-2013, 01:22 PM
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Shims:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/webapp/w...pe=productgrid

Kyosho and other make them as well.
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Old 05-29-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Awww man, I wish you would have come and said hi...we would have gotten you hooked up. I had a set of 1 runs I could have given to ya and looked over your truck.

TO ALL...if you EVER find that I am at a track you are at, PLEASE PLEASE come up and say hi. I love meeting people that I chat with on here. Ask all the questions you want, let me look at your truck, bounce ideas off me, whatever you want to call it...use me. That is why I am there and that is what I enjoy is to help anyone and everyone I can. I was racing myself but I am pretty sure I had, oh I don't know, maybe 6 or 7 HOURS that I wasn't doing anything on Saturday, lol.
..I slept in till noon got there at 2 and still had all day to do nothing LOL..Thanks for the offer I will surely take you up on it.I did get a chance to talk with Casper about the 2.0 and the stuff you were trying with the new set ups.You guys were on rails for sure!!!If ya saw a guy with the dirtiest TLR hat on at the track, it was.. Me ..
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:31 PM
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I ran Ryan's new setup today @ Tony's hobbies tight indoor clay with good traction. Truck was on rails had lots of steering good rotation rear end was planted I used the full set up except the hex Shims. Also no traction rolling at all can run a lot harder into the corner with out fear of rolling over.

Thanks TLR (Ryan/Casper) for all your hard work.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by hkrob View Post
I ran Ryan's new setup today @ Tony's hobbies tight indoor clay with good traction. Truck was on rails had lots of steering good rotation rear end was planted I used the full set up except the hex Shims. Also no traction rolling at all can run a lot harder into the corner with out fear of rolling over.

Thanks TLR (Ryan/Casper) for all your hard work.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
The piston holes in the stock pistons are not tapered. Its the way they come off the mold that makes them appear tapered. I have used gauge pins to determine if they are tapered and have never found any to be tapered. I put them in with the number facing up so I can see it with taking the shock top off.
I've bought a couple different piston kits and they are all the same. The side with the number has a larger hole that quickly tapers to a smaller hole, kind of like a counter sink. Now I know you should know better than I, but this is going to make the action of the piston faster in whatever direction the "taper" faces.

Now if you say that it makes no difference, that's what I will believe seeing as your the man, but it has to have some effect. Personally, I've tried the pistons both ways, and it could just be in my head, but it felt like with the number down, I had more pack.

You guys should take a look at your pistons if you have spares, just to see what I mean, no matter how irrelivent, and wrong I could be LOL
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Old 05-29-2013, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
TO ALL...if you EVER find that I am at a track you are at, PLEASE PLEASE come up and say hi. I love meeting people that I chat with on here. Ask all the questions you want, let me look at your truck, bounce ideas off me, whatever you want to call it...use me. That is why I am there and that is what I enjoy is to help anyone and everyone I can. I was racing myself but I am pretty sure I had, oh I don't know, maybe 6 or 7 HOURS that I wasn't doing anything on Saturday, lol.
I had a quick question, new setup uses 4 #3 pistons? Thanks!

I'm sure I'll have plenty more at the track!
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Old 05-30-2013, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by LAGuy View Post
I had a quick question, new setup uses 4 #3 pistons? Thanks!

I'm sure I'll have plenty more at the track!
Correct. Use #3 pistons all around.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by jsamarin View Post
I've bought a couple different piston kits and they are all the same. The side with the number has a larger hole that quickly tapers to a smaller hole, kind of like a counter sink. Now I know you should know better than I, but this is going to make the action of the piston faster in whatever direction the "taper" faces.

Now if you say that it makes no difference, that's what I will believe seeing as your the man, but it has to have some effect. Personally, I've tried the pistons both ways, and it could just be in my head, but it felt like with the number down, I had more pack.

You guys should take a look at your pistons if you have spares, just to see what I mean, no matter how irrelivent, and wrong I could be LOL
Draft angles are used so that a plastic part can be released from the mold without distortion or damage. Possibly the pins used to form the holes in the piston have some sort of draft angle (taper) to them to aid in the part being ejected from the mold after the part cools/hardens.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by cttech455 View Post
Draft angles are used so that a plastic part can be released from the mold without distortion or damage. Possibly the pins used to form the holes in the piston have some sort of draft angle (taper) to them to aid in the part being ejected from the mold after the part cools/hardens.
The face of the piston with the number on it has an initial larger id to the holes, but that is just the pin face. The through hole is nearly identical once its at norm.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by hkrob View Post
I ran Ryan's new setup today @ Tony's hobbies tight indoor clay with good traction. Truck was on rails had lots of steering good rotation rear end was planted I used the full set up except the hex Shims. Also no traction rolling at all can run a lot harder into the corner with out fear of rolling over.

Thanks TLR (Ryan/Casper) for all your hard work.
Thanks for the feedback, glad it worked out for you and thank you for trying the full setup. The rear shims just serve to make the stability from front to rear more similar. Helps with the roll front to rear as well.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:36 AM
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Which sway bars are which? As far as color to rate.
Also, is there anyway to tell a difference between the stock 1.0 black springs and the race black springs for the front....? I've got both, but not sure which is which?
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MonsterSummit View Post
Which sway bars are which? As far as color to rate.
Also, is there anyway to tell a difference between the stock 1.0 black springs and the race black springs for the front....? I've got both, but not sure which is which?
The sway bars can just be measured as the thickness is the determining factor. However, they do go black, chrome, black for front and rear. The new truck comes with both black bars but they are the thickest front and the thinnest rear we offer. The original truck came with both chromes which is both of the mediums.

As for the springs, the new springs are a bigger id so they fit the collars and cups better, that is the easiest way to tell.
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Old 05-30-2013, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
The sway bars can just be measured as the thickness is the determining factor. However, they do go black, chrome, black for front and rear. The new truck comes with both black bars but they are the thickest front and the thinnest rear we offer. The original truck came with both chromes which is both of the mediums.

As for the springs, the new springs are a bigger id so they fit the collars and cups better, that is the easiest way to tell.
Awesome thanks for the info!
Also on an unrelated note, what is your opinion, if you have one, between the new 2.0 and the MIP setup. I have run a the 2.0 some(friends car), and I currently have the MIP setup with the towers drilled out for the 2.0 shock locations. I also have ALL the TLR garb on it as well. The only difference I have really seen is the MIP batt is a all the way back, where as the 2.0 is up a little in comparison. Just wondering what your thoughts are as far as 2.0 setups on the MIP conversion.. Basically looking at what 5000 would do in the rear diff, and also the new shock package. Currently I have 5-7-3 and the 2 hole shock setup. Truck is awesome, but as I'm sure you know your always looking to make it better..
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