10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
04-12-2013, 02:23 PM
#3211
Assuming you could find a set, 810 hexes would require some machine work to keep the wheels inside the body. I've done that on a set for one of my SCTEs. For my 2.0 I modified a set of OFNA 17MM T-Maxx adapters. That also required some machine work and using Ten-T axles. I think the Proline ProTrac rear 17MM adapters for the Slash would work with the standard SCTE axles but I only have one pair and they are now discontinued.
For any of these 17MM conversions using DE wheels, the truck is no longer officially ROAR legal. Not because of the 17MM hex, but because the DE wheel has a little bit more offset than the standard SCTE 12MM hex wheels and you end up over the ROAR width limit by about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. So far, no place I race has cared about that.
There is not much you can do about it: the 17MM hex can't be thinner than about 1/8" because the crosspins are already 1/10 inch thick.
For any of these 17MM conversions using DE wheels, the truck is no longer officially ROAR legal. Not because of the 17MM hex, but because the DE wheel has a little bit more offset than the standard SCTE 12MM hex wheels and you end up over the ROAR width limit by about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. So far, no place I race has cared about that.
There is not much you can do about it: the 17MM hex can't be thinner than about 1/8" because the crosspins are already 1/10 inch thick.
04-12-2013, 03:13 PM
#3213
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (13)
Assuming you could find a set, 810 hexes would require some machine work to keep the wheels inside the body. I've done that on a set for one of my SCTEs. For my 2.0 I modified a set of OFNA 17MM T-Maxx adapters. That also required some machine work and using Ten-T axles. I think the Proline ProTrac rear 17MM adapters for the Slash would work with the standard SCTE axles but I only have one pair and they are now discontinued.
For any of these 17MM conversions using DE wheels, the truck is no longer officially ROAR legal. Not because of the 17MM hex, but because the DE wheel has a little bit more offset than the standard SCTE 12MM hex wheels and you end up over the ROAR width limit by about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. So far, no place I race has cared about that.
There is not much you can do about it: the 17MM hex can't be thinner than about 1/8" because the crosspins are already 1/10 inch thick.
For any of these 17MM conversions using DE wheels, the truck is no longer officially ROAR legal. Not because of the 17MM hex, but because the DE wheel has a little bit more offset than the standard SCTE 12MM hex wheels and you end up over the ROAR width limit by about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. So far, no place I race has cared about that.
There is not much you can do about it: the 17MM hex can't be thinner than about 1/8" because the crosspins are already 1/10 inch thick.
I assume if you used the Ten T axles the small nut will thread on and hold the 17mm hex in place?
04-12-2013, 04:03 PM
#3214
Me niether. The DE wheels are great and I can use them on other SC trucks I have because they all have 17MM adapters - no need for separate wheel/tire sets for each truck.
Yes and no. The crosspin through the 17MM hex holds it in place fine and with the wheel on the crosspin won't come out. But the 810 hexes don't fit absolutely tightly on the axle so a nut on the end takes out the play. For the first set, I milled a recess for the nut. For the second set I didn't bother - instead I milled the nut to reduce its height.
Also, on this second set I drilled and reamed the crosspin hole in the hub to exact fit on a precision reamer blank crosspin so I may not end up needing the nut after all. The nut doesn't stick out past the tire but is past the end of the wheel and looks a little hokey.
I also considered drilling a hole down the center of the Ten-T axle (after removing the threaded part) to allow use of a set screw to retain the crosspin (like on the 810 and regular 1/8 scales) but using the nut right now got me going faster on the next steps on my kit assembly. I might still do the set screw thing when I have some more time.
If you found and used the ProLine Protrac rear adapters on the regular SCTE axles, you would need the nuts included with the adapters.
Also, on this second set I drilled and reamed the crosspin hole in the hub to exact fit on a precision reamer blank crosspin so I may not end up needing the nut after all. The nut doesn't stick out past the tire but is past the end of the wheel and looks a little hokey.
I also considered drilling a hole down the center of the Ten-T axle (after removing the threaded part) to allow use of a set screw to retain the crosspin (like on the 810 and regular 1/8 scales) but using the nut right now got me going faster on the next steps on my kit assembly. I might still do the set screw thing when I have some more time.
If you found and used the ProLine Protrac rear adapters on the regular SCTE axles, you would need the nuts included with the adapters.
04-12-2013, 06:51 PM
#3216
http://www.tlracing.com/ProdInfo/Fil...uning_Tips.pdf
Found this for yea...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Briguy
Anyone know the rates of the silver , gold , and black springs ? All I can find id soft med and hard .
Spring rates for LOSB 2959 Front set
Green - 3.6
Blue - 3.9
Black - 4.2
Purple - 4.5
Spring rates for LOSB 2963 Rear set
Red - 2.7
Orange - 3.0
Silver - 3.3
Green - 3.6
Found this for yea...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Briguy
Anyone know the rates of the silver , gold , and black springs ? All I can find id soft med and hard .
Spring rates for LOSB 2959 Front set
Green - 3.6
Blue - 3.9
Black - 4.2
Purple - 4.5
Spring rates for LOSB 2963 Rear set
Red - 2.7
Orange - 3.0
Silver - 3.3
Green - 3.6
Last edited by BDRMBULLY; 04-12-2013 at 07:59 PM.
04-12-2013, 07:35 PM
#3217
So... Did anyone else notice you can't get a motor in and out while the mud guards are on?
04-12-2013, 10:29 PM
#3223
Try running a heavier rear sway bar. You could also change to a stiffer rear spring but that'll also change shock absorbtion and jumping attitude. The sway bar will only change the amount of body roll. This may also make the rear a little looser and give you more steering on power.
04-12-2013, 11:35 PM
#3224
Suggestions for scte gearing 3800kv 2 and 3s
Just wondering if anyone has some sugggetions on what gearing I should run on a losi scte for general bashing. Using as turnigy nanotech 2s 6600mAh 65c. I have a 3800kv 401 tenshock motor with a hobbywing sc8 esc. Also if anyone has any esc settings suggestions. Would like to use 3s as well not looking for massive speed but would like things to run quicker than the rtr setup and cooler. Thanks
04-13-2013, 02:31 AM
#3225
Try running a heavier rear sway bar. You could also change to a stiffer rear spring but that'll also change shock absorbtion and jumping attitude. The sway bar will only change the amount of body roll. This may also make the rear a little looser and give you more steering on power.
I might try playing with rideheight and downstop a bit first. I eyeballed it instead of chucking it on the setup station, so it's probably a bit out.
Does this truck run well with lots of droop (say, like a mugen)?