10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
09-28-2016, 08:23 AM
#9259
Tech Rookie
Building tips or suggestions
I am going to be building a 2.0 today. You guys have any building tips or suggestions? I will be setting my diffs to 5-5-3 and shock oil to 35wt. I have a hobbystar 150 esc and hobbystar pro 4300 sensored motor going unit. Picking up tires and a servo this weekend. So any input would be appreciated.
09-28-2016, 07:10 PM
#9261
Tech Rookie
I just got a 2.0 today. Any building tips or suggestions? 5-5-3 in diffs not sure about shock oil yet. Maybe 35 wt. Going to be running a hobbystar 150 esc, hobbystar pro 4 4300 sensored motor. Need to go pick up a servo and tires. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
09-29-2016, 02:28 PM
#9262
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
Shim your ring and pinion gears properly so they last and don't strip teeth. These seem to help. Team Losi Racing Aluminum Rear Gearbox Bearing Insert Set (2) https://www.amainhobbies.com/team-lo...lr3100/p235958
Best thing I ever upgraded on 2.0 for better handling: Front Spindle Carrier, 15 Deg, +2mm, Aluminum: SCTE (TLR334017). Suggest you use 3.0 front arms and spindle carriers to get same thing.
**Best part I ever purchased for durability: Xray Diff Washers 964050 https://www.amainhobbies.com/xray-5x...a964050/p22764
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...oof-diffs.html
**2nd best part I ever purchased for durability: MIP Pro4mance™ Chassis Braces – Rigid, TLR SCTE 2.0 #13249 *Discontinued* If you can find them buy a set and don't look back. Money well spent.
Talk to fast guys at your track or tracks you plan to race at for tire info. So many fast tires of the week you could fill up a laundry basket and still not have the best compound or tread design.
Best tire advice to anyone wanting to race. Use race tires on the track only. Run a cheap or used tire for bashing on pavement, yard, gravel. Race tires are usually done after one run on anything other than the track.
I spend more money on tires than anything else on my truck
09-29-2016, 04:04 PM
#9263
Tech Rookie
Thank you for the advice. I was already looking at the front carriers and spindles. After putting the front end together today I noticed room for improvement. What is the best method for shimming the pinions?
09-30-2016, 01:44 AM
#9264
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
10-02-2016, 03:23 PM
#9265
I have always used the stock bumper up front. I see a few people using the RPM, but I don't think it's an advantage. I get a year or so out of the stock front bumper, but I do keep a spare for that rare crash. Maybe someone who has used it will chime in.
I do use the RPM rear bumper. I through bolted the shock tower to the RPM mount because the stock bumper seems to pull threads out after a couple of months. Did that over a year ago and still using the same rear bumper. It works well for me.
I do use the RPM rear bumper. I through bolted the shock tower to the RPM mount because the stock bumper seems to pull threads out after a couple of months. Did that over a year ago and still using the same rear bumper. It works well for me.
10-02-2016, 03:34 PM
#9266
Tech Rookie
the servo i use turnigy ts -920 on my losi troy lee. I recommend tires go super soft. proline hole shot.
10-18-2016, 08:49 PM
#9267
Tech Master
iTrader: (66)
For those still racing the 2.0 and wanting the upgrades that may or may not matter.....
I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.
The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.
Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.
I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.
The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.
Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.
10-19-2016, 12:02 AM
#9268
Tech Initiate
Is the 3.0 chassis winder then the 2.0 chassis
10-19-2016, 12:04 AM
#9269
For those still racing the 2.0 and wanting the upgrades that may or may not matter.....
I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.
The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.
Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.
I installed the 3.0 a arms and carriers on my 2.0 truck along with the 3.0 front and rear hubs. The only thing needed to use the 2.0 shocks is to clearance the a arms for the spring cups. If you have the 22 shock package the shocks will fit in the a arms with no mods.
The arms and carriers bolt on and you just need some longer screws for the swaybar connection at the arm. To get the most steering angle you do need the updated 3.0 dog bones or the Tekno bone kit.
Something worth noting, the 3.0 front A arms add about 2mm to wheelbase on the 2.0 truck. Not sure how this changes handling. Before I installed the 3.0 arms on my 2.0 I had both trucks side by side on the bench and the 3.0 with -3 chassis was longer than my 2.0 truck. That makes no sense to me. I measured the rear chassis between center and rear diffs and for sure it is about 3mm shorter. So what does it mean? Well, they are about the same wheelbase. Beyond that the handling changes, good or bad, are still not that clear to me. Out of the box setup is not necessarily better than a well setup 2.0, but with time it might surpass the best 2.0 truck.