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Old 02-06-2016, 03:25 PM
  #8926  
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Hello,
I looking to buy front and rear aluminum hinge pin/ arm carriers I have original scte with mip kit and it has plastic and metal carriers.
Also looking for tekno front drive shaft kit for scte if someone had spares or used would be ok also.
Also snr+9mm front and rear shock towers.
If anyone has spares or used hop ups for scte please let me know...
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Old 02-09-2016, 09:52 AM
  #8927  
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Default How do you do your Losi ten scte 2.0 shocks

Hi I just join this site and I've always wondered what's is the right way to do your shocks how to bleed it what's the rebound have to be at just step by step stuff id be very thankful if somebody tell me how to rebuild and fill and everything from start to finish
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:34 AM
  #8928  
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15* carrier question

if i buy the 15* + 2mm carriers, what spindles do i need? will plastic one work?

what degree are the stock plastic carriers?

thank you
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Old 02-09-2016, 10:56 AM
  #8929  
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also will the 8ight 3.0 spindles TLR244004 fit on the scte?

thank you
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:15 AM
  #8930  
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Originally Posted by shumway
also will the 8ight 3.0 spindles TLR244004 fit on the scte?

thank you


No
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Old 02-09-2016, 02:54 PM
  #8931  
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Originally Posted by shumway
15* carrier question

if i buy the 15* + 2mm carriers, what spindles do i need? will plastic one work?

what degree are the stock plastic carriers?

thank you
I use the plastic carriers
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Old 02-09-2016, 07:42 PM
  #8932  
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Also the front arm bushings that go into the arm that the carrier connects to, is there a part number for that? Will the aluminum 8ight ones work?
Thank you
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:20 AM
  #8933  
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Originally Posted by shumway
Also the front arm bushings that go into the arm that the carrier connects to, is there a part number for that? Will the aluminum 8ight ones work?
Thank you
Those are the kingpins. http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR6081
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Old 02-10-2016, 05:05 AM
  #8934  
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I watched some tips on you tube for the emulsion setup. I had never used this method before. Without using a bladder you fill your shocks up with oil, let the bubbles out then cap. With the bleeder screw out, you compress the shock all the way and quickly put the screw back in.
If I am incorrect I hope someone will chime in.

Originally Posted by Mikey72057
Hi I just join this site and I've always wondered what's is the right way to do your shocks how to bleed it what's the rebound have to be at just step by step stuff id be very thankful if somebody tell me how to rebuild and fill and everything from start to finish
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Old 02-10-2016, 06:08 AM
  #8935  
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Originally Posted by Giulitto
I watched some tips on you tube for the emulsion setup. I had never used this method before. Without using a bladder you fill your shocks up with oil, let the bubbles out then cap. With the bleeder screw out, you compress the shock all the way and quickly put the screw back in.
If I am incorrect I hope someone will chime in.
That the gist of it mainly. After you do this though, you will want to work the piston up a down a bit and then you will notice a pressure build up one more time that will cause the shock to rebound from fully compressed several mm, and also retract from fully extended a few mm to. To remedy this, I loosen the screw about 3/4 of the way out one more time and slowly compress the shaft one more time to release that pressure. If you do it wrong, or allow the shock to extend while the screw is loose, it will suck air in with it. So you have to tighten it each time before you re-extend it again to see if your shock is still holding pressure. It will make a whooshing noise if you allowed to much air into the body and you will have to remove the cap and start over by re-topping the oil once more before putting the cap back on for another attempt. There is some what of a method to it, but once you figure it out, its second nature from then on out to do it right the first time round every time you service them.

Ideally you want the shock to be as "dead" as possible. No kick out or retraction compressed or extended. But you will always get a little movement no matter what you do. If not, you will most certainly have allowed to much air into the system. A very fine medium is what you want, especially if your using VRP two stage pistons.
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Old 02-10-2016, 09:41 AM
  #8936  
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Thanks guys for the shock tip I'm gonna try it asap
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:14 PM
  #8937  
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So, what's the word on the 22 shock conversion kit? Anyone running it? Any opinions?

My current shocks are tired. Need to be rebuilt, so thinking about this kit instead.

My concern is the stiffest available front spring for these shocks, which is rated at 4.1. There are times I run on sugar and use the purple front SCTE spring, which is rated at 4.5. So not sure if this will work.

Whatcha think?
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Old 02-10-2016, 10:46 PM
  #8938  
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Originally Posted by rcus3r
So, what's the word on the 22 shock conversion kit? Anyone running it? Any opinions?

My current shocks are tired. Need to be rebuilt, so thinking about this kit instead.

My concern is the stiffest available front spring for these shocks, which is rated at 4.1. There are times I run on sugar and use the purple front SCTE spring, which is rated at 4.5. So not sure if this will work.

Whatcha think?
The losi pro's seem to all do really well with them on some high grip tracks, and everyone pretty much agrees of the superiority of the 22 shock vs stock, so I would probably go ahead with the conversion and run a thicker oil with VRP pistons. Those bring you a 20% quicker rebound, so it would be the same as running a stiffer spring with those in thicker oil, which would negate the return delay. Something to think about.
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Old 02-11-2016, 04:58 AM
  #8939  
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Do you have a video of this? I'm a visual learner.

Originally Posted by Josh L
That the gist of it mainly. After you do this though, you will want to work the piston up a down a bit and then you will notice a pressure build up one more time that will cause the shock to rebound from fully compressed several mm, and also retract from fully extended a few mm to. To remedy this, I loosen the screw about 3/4 of the way out one more time and slowly compress the shaft one more time to release that pressure. If you do it wrong, or allow the shock to extend while the screw is loose, it will suck air in with it. So you have to tighten it each time before you re-extend it again to see if your shock is still holding pressure. It will make a whooshing noise if you allowed to much air into the body and you will have to remove the cap and start over by re-topping the oil once more before putting the cap back on for another attempt. There is some what of a method to it, but once you figure it out, its second nature from then on out to do it right the first time round every time you service them.

Ideally you want the shock to be as "dead" as possible. No kick out or retraction compressed or extended. But you will always get a little movement no matter what you do. If not, you will most certainly have allowed to much air into the system. A very fine medium is what you want, especially if your using VRP two stage pistons.
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Old 02-11-2016, 07:24 AM
  #8940  
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Originally Posted by rcus3r
So, what's the word on the 22 shock conversion kit? Anyone running it? Any opinions?

My current shocks are tired. Need to be rebuilt, so thinking about this kit instead.

My concern is the stiffest available front spring for these shocks, which is rated at 4.1. There are times I run on sugar and use the purple front SCTE spring, which is rated at 4.5. So not sure if this will work.

Whatcha think?
TLR released Hard front spring set for this reason. These springs go up to 5.0

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR233020

We use these springs on the SCT and the SCTE.

22 shock setup is great. Lowers CG, smoother shocks and lighter and increased adjustability due to availability of increased shock spring options. (any 12mm shock springs from TLR, AE, Kyosho, Yok, Durango etc. can now be use which was not available for use on the stock SCTE shocks.
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