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12-24-2014, 09:18 AM

#7546

DoogieLee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rcgod

Ok was asking because I run the kh mounts and go months without wearing out the pucks, but some guys here have reported very fast wear when using the stock mounts. When I recommended the kh parts I was basically told I didn't know what I was talking about by some tool.

Good to know, as ive only put a few packs through it. I was wondering about the durabilty of the pucks themselves on this setup, so I ordered an extra pack. Glad to know I won't be blowing through them.

12-24-2014, 12:15 PM

#7547

XXXDad

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Rayan

The rear Alu. hub's are on order. Takes some time to get it. Big points series going on and need to run Sunday. I'm top 4 and want to have a good showing. Not much I can do no spares, or let's say one spare of each. I would say each and every time the bearing will not push out, then the center pushes out and all that is left is the outer race ... totally stuck. Just wish there was a channel or path to be able to tap or push out the stuck race. Plastic it is easy. But the Alu. is just a bear when this happens. Yes, if I replace more often could help. Just hard to judge when and just to get them out is a chore. Its one of those.... oh its stuck again things.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hacker07

I am sorry you had some bearings fail on you. I would definitely recommend running either both alum or both plastic rear hubs. They have a slightly different feel to them so your truck will feel a bit off with different ones on each side.

12-24-2014, 01:40 PM

#7548

DoogieLee

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I had the AL rear hubs on my 1.0 and remember them being super tight on the bearings (Avids) so much, that I had to throw the bearings in the freezer and the hubs in the toaster oven to 200 degrees for about a half hour and then put them together. The bearings didnt bind up after they were installed, and I sold the truck with them in there. I personally didnt notice any difference between them and the plastics, so I just left the plastics on my 2.0

12-25-2014, 05:09 AM

#7549

JEFFs SC10

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Quote:

Originally Posted by DoogieLee

Picked up a set of MIP pucks for my 2.0 last week, previously I had the Tekno driveshafts on it, immediately I could feel a signifigant difference in weight between the 2, but when I ran it... It was too quiet!! Seriously, it sounds like a 2wd or the belt driven AE now!! But it was very smooth, I couldn't tell if it helped acceleration or not, the track was very dry and dusty.
Time will tell when I take it to the indoor tracks, but so far I like them, i'm assuming its being more efficient with the noise level down, more power is being put to the wheels instead of being wasted making all that racket!

Doog let me know how you like them maintenance wise.

12-25-2014, 11:03 AM

#7550

portyansky

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So I got VRC, liked it so much bought the lifetime membership, never thought it would happen but I'm hooked on sct. Team losi is where is at I'm convinced. So gonna buy a new kit once available. What hop ups are needed instantly. I haven't looked into it, but I see people buying Tekno products. What exactly are people buying?
Gonna go rx8/pro4 4600.
Help a brother out. Merry xmas.

12-25-2014, 11:25 AM

#7551

rcgod

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Quote:

Originally Posted by portyansky

Front and rear option springs, aluminum servo arm, and sway bars are all you should need. I like the servo arm for the 22 buggy but some guys use the regular losi arm.

12-25-2014, 04:46 PM

#7552

portyansky

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Quote:

Originally Posted by rcgod

Front and rear option springs, aluminum servo arm, and sway bars are all you should need. I like the servo arm for the 22 buggy but some guys use the regular losi arm.

How about the Tekno stuff?

12-25-2014, 04:52 PM

#7553

rcgod

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Quote:

Originally Posted by portyansky

How about the Tekno stuff?

Stock driveshafts last pretty well for me I just keep them greased and rebuild when needed. Tekno will last longer but is also more $ because you have to replace the outdrives. You can rebuild or replace the stock ones several times for the same price. Up to you really. I don't consider them a "must have" item.

12-27-2014, 08:02 PM

#7554

lowspark

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A quick question.
Is there a difference between the ring gears front LOSB3571 and rear LOSB3572.

A friend gave me a new ring gear and pinion gear but they were not in a bag. 35 teeth on the ring gear and 9 teeth on the pinion. I don't know if that would be for the front or the read diff.
thanks

12-27-2014, 08:10 PM

#7555

lowspark

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ooops...
I realized the front gear the teeth face the diff and on the rear gear the teeth face away from the diff (the screws are recessed on opposite sides...duh)...

12-28-2014, 06:05 AM

#7556

fordohio

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I'm running the HW Sct Pro esc with the 4000 motor. 15t. High traction indoor. Motor comes off track 130 degress. punch is setup 1 and 0 degrees timing. My racing background has been all nitro. I was hoping to get some others esc setup and advice on what I should look for if I change the punch and timing. I know this seems like a HW post. But I wanted answers from scte drivers.

12-28-2014, 07:50 AM

#7557

rcgod

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Quote:

Originally Posted by fordohio

Turning the punch up will give you more power faster at low speeds like when you need to clear a jump. More timing will give more power mostly felt on the straight but will also increase heat. With a 4000 kv motor a 15t pinion is pretty low gearing unless it's a really small track. I would gear up to a 16 pinion, leave timing at 0, and adjust punch to where it feels best.

12-29-2014, 03:57 PM

#7558

mjderstine

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hey guys, just picked up an SCTE in the forsale section to start getting into some outdoor racing. i have a tekin pro4 3000KV that i slapped in it. what kinda gearing should i go for to start? i see most guys are using 4000kv in theirs with a 15-16 pinion. should i drop to a 18t pinion for the lower KV motor?

thanks guys.