.AJ.

Haha, you should come to the UK, our dirt tracks are like that 75% of the year, that's why I stick to Astro tracks

68sportcoup

iTrader: (4)

installed a new ring and pinion in the rear.
had a broken tooth on the ring.
after assembly and before connecting to center with drive shaft.
rotate wheels forward nice.
rotate wheels backwards pinion goes in and binds up.
read directions (not much to read looked at pics).
am I missing something does something need to be shimmed.
if I rotate the wheels forward while installing the drive shaft.
the shaft can take the play out is this the correct way to do this.
or am I missing something.
Thanks
Mike

kingofcool999

iTrader: (7)

Shouldn't have to shim it... I usually put the pinion in the case/bearing and then put the drive cup on the pinion shaft before putting the diff and other half of the case together. Takes all the play out and keeps it running free.

.AJ.

A bit of feedback on the pucks.....

After a weekend of heavy running there is zero sign of wear of the pucks



I done around 12-15 7min runs over the weekend and lubed the pucks with 15k diff oil and only re-oiled them once over the weekend

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

With the 15 degree caster blocks (TLR334017) it says to unscrew the shock end two additional turns from where I am now. So if I'm already unthreading the shock end two turns I would now unthread them four turns? (not the math lol I just wanted to know if
the shock end would still be secure on the shaft; not pull out in a crash or if I should compensate for some of the ride height difference with the new carriers by adjusting the shock collars in this case?

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

Why do you have to lube the pucks?

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

I think you got it right. If you are worried about ripping the eyelet off the shock, run droop screws down so they just touch the chassis at the full droop. Not a perfect solution but it might save you a DNF.

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

Thanks. I think it will hold together in a crash. I don't have the tabs for the droop screws to rest on on the chassis I run (MIP) so the eyelet will have to take the abuse on its own.

.AJ.

Makes them run even smoother and last longer

hacker07

iTrader: (13)

You should be fine, I run mine that way and haven't had any issues.

cttech455

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the help Ryan

FabsSpeed

Hello everyone,...

I am very new to the 1:10 Losi szene. I have a fully modded 1:5 Losi and as my son is getting very interested into RC i bought him ( me ) a TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit.

Now I relly would like your thoughts on what engine and controller you would go for and what tuning parts.

My idea was to get a:
Vortex VST SC 550 PRO 4.0 with Vortex R10 Pro Controller
Savox 1258TG Servo

Thank you for your ideas and help - and greetings from Germany

FabsSpeed

Feint Motion

iTrader: (24)

Isn't this off road? sad to see what off road racing is becoming now in RC.

Integra

iTrader: (8)

Im personally a tekin guy and cant suggest it enough. Tekin RX8 and your choice of Pro4 and your boy will be FLYING around the track. Servo is still your choice but Im not a fan of Savox, Hitec or Futaba or even the new lineup of Protek's are proving very nice.

FabsSpeed

Thank you very much. What Pro4 would you recomend ?