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Old 08-11-2014, 02:55 AM
  #7036  
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Default TLR SCTE 2.0 is Swiss Champion

After the 5th of 6 Rounds I have managed to pull away from the closest contenders... and have won the Swiss Championship in SC4WD

I'm really happy with the car, it performed very good on all kinds of surfaces (carpet, astro and dirt) and I only had 1 heat that I could not finish... when a screw on the mid drive train came loose.

Whish you all good luck and lots of fun racing this great truck!
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Old 08-11-2014, 09:30 AM
  #7037  
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Originally Posted by Ck_32
I accidentally bought dif oil, that's not the same as dif grease correct? I need to degrease my dif.

Also anyone know of a good place to get a full bearing kit? I thought I had spare bearing for my diffs but I guess not. Think it's time to pick up a bearing set for this truck cause I'm sure if I keep toying with the 1:8 guys this won't be the last time I blow a few bearings.
avid and boca both make full bearing kits for the SCTE. You can continue to grease your diffs but going to diff oil will allow you to tune your car better but it is up to you.

Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
Ok so last time I had my truck out I couldn't take corners very fast at all . My rear would wash out almost everytime. I am currently running the latest dunford setup only difference is I have my rear links in the B-1 position ( lil bit longer ). so my question is if this happens again my next time out what are some things I can try ?? It seems to turn in fine but id say from the middle of the turn out is were I lose it . The track is Med to high bite indoor clay . I thought maybe it was my driving so I let another driver drive my truck and he drove it 1 lap handed me my radio back and said theres something wrong with that truck ...lol

Thanks in advance, Cory
Check your sway bars to make sure they are not bound. Check to make sure the rear pivot is not over tight and could bind the rear arms. Check to make sure the upper shock mount is not too tight and the shock can move freely. these are all very common build mistakes that can bind up the rear end of this truck and make the rear end move all over the place. I would check this stuff first. A shorter rear link will typically give a little more side bite. A longer link will give more forward traction.

Originally Posted by Mclogo
After the 5th of 6 Rounds I have managed to pull away from the closest contenders... and have won the Swiss Championship in SC4WD

I'm really happy with the car, it performed very good on all kinds of surfaces (carpet, astro and dirt) and I only had 1 heat that I could not finish... when a screw on the mid drive train came loose.

Whish you all good luck and lots of fun racing this great truck!
Great job!
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Old 08-11-2014, 03:18 PM
  #7038  
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Originally Posted by Casper
Check your sway bars to make sure they are not bound. Check to make sure the rear pivot is not over tight and could bind the rear arms. Check to make sure the upper shock mount is not too tight and the shock can move freely. these are all very common build mistakes that can bind up the rear end of this truck and make the rear end move all over the place. I would check this stuff first. A shorter rear link will typically give a little more side bite. A longer link will give more forward traction.
+1. I found the sway bars were binding significantly at the plastic mount, where it screws into the arms. Unscrew it one full turn, and it will become free. It might still be a little sticky where the ball is set into the plastic mount, but I'm not sure how to free that up.

I've also decided to use 22 series shock bushings for mounting -- seem to be more free.

The other stuff Casper mentioned is right a well.
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Old 08-11-2014, 05:11 PM
  #7039  
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thanks for the info . I went back thru the rear end and changed all the inserts to brand new ones . the old ones were well used . but as far as any other binding of the rear suspension it all seems to be free. I took the rear shocks completely off and the arms move up and down free. then put shocks back on and they seem to be ok as well . I get to race again on the 23rd so I hope I fixed something .... I'll move the rear link back to the b-2 position .
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Old 08-11-2014, 06:27 PM
  #7040  
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Originally Posted by skrichter
+1. I found the sway bars were binding significantly at the plastic mount, where it screws into the arms. Unscrew it one full turn, and it will become free. It might still be a little sticky where the ball is set into the plastic mount, but I'm not sure how to free that up.

I've also decided to use 22 series shock bushings for mounting -- seem to be more free.

The other stuff Casper mentioned is right a well.
The 22 bushings fit in the SCTE shocks? How are they working?
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Old 08-14-2014, 01:02 AM
  #7041  
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In going over the sway bar assembly in my truck I noticed that the set screws were missing out of the middle of the little pieces that hold the sway bar into the groove of the diff housing. ( I bought the truck used, I didn't build it ) but what is the purpose of the set screw ? will this have any ill effect on Handling ? and should I not worry about them or replace them ?

thanks again, Cory
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Old 08-14-2014, 08:11 AM
  #7042  
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Originally Posted by Dirtraycer
In going over the sway bar assembly in my truck I noticed that the set screws were missing out of the middle of the little pieces that hold the sway bar into the groove of the diff housing. ( I bought the truck used, I didn't build it ) but what is the purpose of the set screw ? will this have any ill effect on Handling ? and should I not worry about them or replace them ?

thanks again, Cory


They take up the extra "slack" in that groove when using smaller sway bar's basically Prevents the excessive movement of the sway bar, You DO NOT want the bar tight, but not Wobbly loose either. So imo yes replace em.
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Old 08-14-2014, 03:11 PM
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ok thanks again for all the help. Ill get this darn truck around the track if it kills me !! lol
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Old 08-15-2014, 07:52 AM
  #7044  
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I wish someone made some machined shock bottoms for the shocks. I only get about two threads before I have to start using channel locks on the bottoms. You can imagine what they look like by now!
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Old 08-15-2014, 08:52 AM
  #7045  
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Originally Posted by potatobed409
I wish someone made some machined shock bottoms for the shocks. I only get about two threads before I have to start using channel locks on the bottoms. You can imagine what they look like by now!
If you are referring to the portion that holds the shock o-ring in, if yours are that tight, they are bad. You can contact customer service and they will send you new ones.
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Old 08-15-2014, 09:27 AM
  #7046  
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Thanks Ryan. I will call them and see what happens.
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:30 PM
  #7047  
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Originally Posted by potatobed409
The 22 bushings fit in the SCTE shocks? How are they working?
I am referring to the plastic bushings/plastic which the top of the shock cap sits on.
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Old 08-17-2014, 02:26 PM
  #7048  
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Mudfest today... Allot of work incoming
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Old 08-17-2014, 03:58 PM
  #7049  
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Mud... Hate when that happens...
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Old 08-18-2014, 05:32 AM
  #7050  
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WOW and WOW I would not have even considered putting my truck onto any track that I would have even thought would do that to it. That is crazy.
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