Casper

iTrader: (34)

1. Yes you have to press the bearings onto the diff halves. this is common.

2. Maybe it is because I use a hitachi drill with MIP speed tips so I don't have the wobble you get from hand screwing in the diff screws but I have yet to strip a stock screw. We know it has been an issue but many of us have not experienced it. Glad the HPI ones worked for you.

3. I have never had an issue with the diff binding in the housings. This is a new one to me. The diff cases are have been around for quite a while now and this has not been a common issue. I would contact Horizon CS and I am sure they would be happy to send out a new set of housings if there is an issue with the set you got but again having read the majority of posts on the 1.0 and 2.0 thread you have found a new issue.

4. I am not aware of a metric screw on this car. The mass majority of the car is 5-40 screws same to the eight line of vehciles. There are some 8-32 for holding the diffs to the chassis and some 4-40 stuff (small set screws sway bars but yes this car is standard and there are quite a few different screws in the kit which is right no par with any 8ight scale you will ever build. You will need 3/32, 5/64(2mm), 1/16 (this is the tip I use for the diff screws are you using a 1.5mm?) and .050 tools for building this car.

The SCTE was based off the Ten series of cars which started off as not being desinged for racing. The 2.0 fixed quite a few issues with the 1.0 as far as fit and finish of the diffs and some other things. Without a complete retooling of the car we are stuck with the 5-40 screw style of this car but if you own an 8ight series of cars this shares it's layout and hardware with it's big brother. If/when TLR develops a ground up platform again for these two cars I would expect to see them go Metric at that time but due to the heritage of the cars we are stuck with the 5-40 hardwar for now.

The SCTE build was good for most. I am sorry you have struggled with some parts.

The manual is a compromise as it is designed for internatonal (multilingual) use so there really are not many words included due to translation into many languages. Bulding the kit really is not much different then building a lego set many of us have done for many years as kids though. Those just show pictures and can do many steps in each picture as well.

There is an entire community here to help was well as a few company reps that will help you out anyway we can. Once you get the kit together I feel strongly you will feel these small issue were worth it as the SCTE is an extremely fun car to drive and very fast and consistant around the track.

Here is a great article to read before you continue with your build.

http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2013/...uild-tips.html

If there is anything else we can help with let us know but the binding front diff is a new thing as far as I have seen.

Make sure you put in the upper screws and the lower two cap head screws into the case.

Some have found where the diff may rub just slightly inside the diff case. This is not always there but has been noted.

ridered4life250

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for answering Casper. I am just so bummed because I was so excited about this kit. How often are you at OCRC? I was going to head there this Saturday for practice. You think you'll be there? Maybe you can point out how I'm doing this diff wrong?
I like kits that require a bit of fine tuning because that means tolerances are tight which keeps the slack away for a while. I'm really not down on Losi or anything but this has put a bad taste in my mouth

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

Any ideas?

braderb

LOVE MY SCTE 2.0

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

don't get discouraged bro, the scte 2.0 is the best SCT out there.

drepus

Errokk,I have run both a 1.0 and 2.0 on small, high grip carpet tracks and the traction that is availables, and the fact we can rip on the throttle so hard on that surface will definately speed up wear but I have not experienced failures of the shafts.
Perhaps your track is bigger and faster? The pro4 had 4300 is a torque monster and could have helped especially if you are hard on the throttle on landings.

You should see much reduced wear/breakage once your track switches over to dirt as I seem to be able to go a full season on a set of shafts.

braderb

Casper or anyone else, I have a shock question.

I have no problem getting zero rebound. My issue is the piston being pulled back up when its extended. This really came to light on my 22-4. Setup should be 19", but I can't get more than 15'. My piston goes back up 3/4 of the way.

No youtube video addresses how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston, just no rebound.

Now I know why I'm bottoming out after jumps.

Everyone, try pulling your piston down and see for yourself how far your piston travels back up. I gave a pistons to 4 different people at my track. All pistons travelled up over 1/2 way.

I hope Team Losi will make a new shock rebuild video that will address how to prevent the vacuum action of the piston while making a zero rebound shock.

AND FAST…...

drepus

I think it's a non issue as any aeration shock will do this. There is always going to be a little suction at full extension.
Your oil/piston package is what absorbs the jump landings and bottoming out on the biggest jumps is normal. If the suspension was set with thick enough damping and pack to avoid bottoming out you would be losing grip on all the small bumps around the rest of the track.
If your setup is too soft and bottoming severely then try upping the oil 5wt or going to the next hole smaller pistons.

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the encouragement! I love the the truck but I have been through several shafts and yes, I usually am heavy on the trigger lol. It began its life as a 1.0 but thru upgrades its receintly made its way to a 2.0. The dirt will undoubtedly relieve stress on the drive train. The track is currently 40x80 and soon will be 50x100.
Thanks again.

Mclogo

Hi Errok, I've ripped a shaft on my first day out on carpet... guess it was the backside of the large jump where I accelerate hard as soon as it makes ground contact. I did straight away order the full M6 Tekno set but have not swapped it so far. I did not brake anything during the first carpet race, but there are also only small jumps there with no section where you "hit flank speed" after straight away after landing.

drepus

Glad to offer the encouragement! This truck is so fun to drive that i like to help when I hear someone struggling.
As a tip for high high grip situations or when you have way more power then the tires can handle try turning down the current limiter in the rx8 till you notice a slight reduction in acceleration. Then go back up 1 or 2 higher on the setting. That way if you have a "heavy" throttle finger at least you are not dramatically overpowering the drivetrain. This will reduce wear on everything and reduce heat in the motor and almost always lead to smoother/lower lap times.
Since your track is going to dirt you will need to change your setup. Try Caspers latest setup on his site.
Have fun playing in the dirt.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

Give me small break. I've built about 10 AE kits and nearly every one had a problem. Missing parts, defective parts, etc. My last kit, the RC8.2e had 2 warped gear boxes and two warped caster blocks that had to be replaced. So, spare me the AE worship.

kingofcool999

iTrader: (7)

+1. IMO, the newer associated kits have been a step down in quality/fit/finish from the stuff they were producing about 10 years ago.

CookieFlow

iTrader: (5)

Hello!

I have an SCTE 2.0 and I am very happy with it!
I recently bought a Axial Exo Terra, and the shocks that came with it are pretty bad and I would like to replace them.

I tested my SCTE 2.0 shocks on it and it works perfectly.
I would like to buy the same shocks but I cannot find them on Amain, is it not possible to buy the entire shocks?

Thanks!

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

There are some on ebay for about $50 for 4 complete.