Roken

I just bought the kit and it does come with a spare set. That might be a good or bad thing.

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

I use SMC 275mm sensor wire. Cheap and great product.

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

That doesn't really answer my question

Can you go 1,2, 5 races before it wears and needs replacing?

My truck doesn't really need the extra acceleration but I'm super curious to see how much of a difference it'll make.

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

TLR really needs to get the latest Dunford setup on their website. My friend just bought a 2.0 and keeps questioning me about setup...we keep telling him we run the truck out of the box with the latest Dunford setup but the old setup is on the site.

zuki250

iTrader: (3)

I have like 25 runs on my pucks...they are still in good shape, but changing them out as i just rebuilt the whole truck

Errokk

iTrader: (13)

I have a 2.0 and I'm having trouble with the cva's getting ripped apart. I have been running on a very high bite felt track that is going to dirt in the next week or 2. Been running an rx8 with a pro4 hd 4300 and just switched over to a mmp with a hw 4700 and still snapping cva's. Any recommendations? Are the m6 tekno axle sets worth the $85, or will I still be ripping them apart? Any suggestions or tips will be appreciated. Thanks.

zuki250

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys....I just rebuilt my truck...going through the shocks...they had 1.5 pistons in them...so i swapped one set to the #3's....i need another set of 3's now...does anyone know the part number for these? I search for losb2909, and i get a piston set..it says 1.0mm 1.05mm etc etc...do these corespond to the number 3 on the piston?

Roken

I think you need to buy the whole set of pistons just to get the extra set of #3's. Measure the dia. of the hole I think it's 1.3mm. Then order Avid's 4 x 1.3 machined pistons for Losi.

Espeefan

iTrader: (3)

Guys, forgive me if this question has been covered already. This thread is so long, I loose patience before I find the answer to my question.....but anyway, I am wondering if I can run a Ten SCT Nitro body on my new Ten SCTE 2.0 chassis. I hate painting, but I do like the factory painted Losi Ten SCT nitro E3 spark plug body. Can I just slap that on the SCTE? It looks like the front window is cut out of the nitro body already, but do the pre-drilled holes line up?

Tommygun1

iTrader: (16)

If the Ten nitro body has the same hole locations as the electric body it will work if you take the spacers out for the rear body mounts and put them in the front. The body will hang over the front bumper just slightly.

PYRO689

Hi all,
Just built a new 2.0 and it seems like I have a lot of excessive play with the CV Driveshafts...I am able to move them back and forth a bit in all the spindle/carriers. is this normal? I have placed a washer/spacer between the bearing and the wheel hexes and it seems to take up a majority of the play. Will there be any issues running these spacers. Or is the play I am experiencing normal and just leave it as is?
Thanks in advance
Ken

Espeefan

iTrader: (3)

Thank you for the info!

Mclogo

I would like to order a 8ight/-e body to use it as an inner body for my SCTE 2.0
Have also seen, that there is a hole in the steering cover, where the body mount can be fixed.

Do all 8ight/-e bodies fit more or less, or would you recommend one? I guess LOSA4424 is the correct part for the front body mount?

Thanks!

ridered4life250

iTrader: (4)

OK so I am putting together my brand new $500 kit (and I mention price because of how ripped off I feel) and am encountering some issues. And before I rant, you should know that I have an enginerring degree, race motocross every other weekend (Transworld MX - Muscle Milk Series) and have been building kits since I was 10. What I am getting at is that I know how to building / work on anything mechanical.

1) Was assembling the diff outdrives / covers and the bearings wont slide on the. They are so tight, I had to use a bearing punch to gently tap them on to the diff halfs. I am...ok with this, as this means that the tolerances are very tight. It still should be addressed by losi.

2) DIff screws (holding the ring gear on) are a freaking joke. As previously suggested in this thread, I was careful with them. NOPEEE. No bad. I loose. 2 stripped screws and 5 hours of carefully drilling them out. I finally went and bought the HPI z449 m2.5x12 screws and what do you know...they worked perfect. BTW, I am using MIP tools. Very expensive...very good.
HEY LOSI! Why dont you quit being cheap a-holes and use good quality screws on parts that are as incredibly vital as the diffs? I dunno, just a thought.

3) I put the diff into the diff housing and sure enough, the diff binds. From what I can tell, the 2 diff housing pieces arent big enough on the flang / the bearing races are too tight. What this means is that when I use the 4 screws to secure the housing halfs together, it squeezes the bearings so tight that they bind. See below.

<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-9.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-9.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s184.photobucket.com/user/rpfeifer5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x272/rpfeifer5/Mobile%20Uploads/image-8.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo image-8.jpg"/></a>


4) Holy freaking god the directions are horrible. How do I know whether to use a stainless or regular screw? The directions sure dont say anything. Also, PICK ONE FREAKING UNIT SYSTEM AND STICK WITH IT!! Losi goes between metric and SAE measurements and bolt sizes like every other freaking page. What is going on here guys!?!?

I hate to say it but this will most likely be my last Losi kit. I have owned upwards of 35 Associated kits and never bought losi. I am now sad that I ever strayed from Associated.

ses601

iTrader: (29)

any thoughts on the m2c tapered pistons?