SPACOLY

Hi guys
this is my first electric rc can someone tell me the correct way to mesh the eng and spur gear. with my nitro i have always used a peice of paper to get the correct mesh. this i have found doesnt work with electric. i have tried pushing the motor hard against the spur and with a little tension and it always seems to not be quiet right.

also has anyone eles a drama of the motor clicking (hesitating) when under very low throttle as if the battery is going flat.(when i re-adjust the motor and it will fix it for a little while) and im not jumping or hitting anything so i doubt the motor is moving as the motor mount screw is always tight with i adjust it

i run the hobbywing sct pro kit 4000kv and 120amp esc

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

Double Check:
1) Your ESC has the latest SCT Pro ESC Firmware
2) Sensor cable tight on all ends - and LED's indicating running in sensored mode. Check before running, and also a little while after running (as sometimes it falls into sensorless mode when the connection is loose, then it does not necessarily resume sensored mode)


P.S. You can also try the Hobbywing thread for some help as well.

Redwings

iTrader: (4)

Ya, the bumpers were on opposite side (now I see the difference). Now there in the right place, however, I still have to shave down the sides a bit to get a little more place from the motor. Running a 540 monster w/ fan and 12 or 14 tooth pinion. Thanks for all your help

braderb

Have a question about Ryan Dunford's setup Casper also uses(5/22/13).
1.
Rear diff fluid: 5000
Going up to 5000 will it not decrease rear traction?. I always thought 2000 which increases cornering traction.
Can someone explain the benefit of 5000 in the rear?
2.
Don't understand the "Notes" where a 2mm washer under outside ball goes. Explain please.
3.
Droop-Full plus turning out shock boot both in front and rear. RIGHT?
What will this do?

I live an hour from the track. Its a very tight, twisty indoor clay. Almost thinking of 7000 front & middle diffs, 2000 rear. I like to read and plan my adjustment before I go. I just need some clarification on my 3 questions.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

1. Depends on your driving style. If you like more on power steering and are on the throttle early in the corner, heavier rear fluid allows you to steer with the rear end. I'm more point and shoot so I run 3k rear.

2. 2mm washers go under the outside steering link where it attaches to the spindle. Changes the bump steer and makes the steering smoother and more consistent.

3. Unscrewing shock ends 2 turns gives more droop, more weight transfer, better on jump landings. Also makes the truck easier to drive.

RMabus

SPACOLY. I always stick a piece of folded notebook paper between the gears and smash down on it pretty good when setting.

I also just got an SCTE. Anyone have any recommendations for spare parts that are a must to have in your pit box?

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Nothing breaks unless you hit a pipe or another tuck head on. I always carry spares of all plastic pieces, spur gear, shock shafts and hinge pins just in case I'm racing at a place with no hobby shop. At the minimum I would have arms, rear hubs, spur gear and shock shafts.

braderb

Appreciate the feedback RCGOD

I want to understand meaning behind the numbers.

Looking forward to testing Ryan's setup on Thursday

Thanks Again

SPACOLY

cheers RMabus

i found that the DRRS was set at 9 so i turned that down to 1 and that basically sorted it out.

ill try your way of meshing the gears and see if that works better although i did try that but it just sounded realy loud. as if it was damaging the spur gear mind you i think i have had an small stone go through it (almost time to replace the spur gear)

Mike B

Has anyone had issues with getting down to a respectable ride height when using the stiffer Losi front and rear springs? I seem to run out of adjustment on the shocks to get it down to the 25 mm ride height. Lots of adjustment with the factory springs.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

No problems getting down to 24mm with black and silver springs. Make sure you did not over tighen the nuts for the shocks to the shock tower and you do not have the shocks pressurized.

drepus

MikeB, if your springs are new they will also break in and settle a couple of mm's lower after a bit of running.
Luv this truck!

Mike B

I was giving the purples a try on the front when I ran into the issue. I will make sure the front end is not binding in any way and see if I can break in the spring a bit also. Thanks for the info!

UN4RACING

iTrader: (22)

Black and purple I had to run the lower outer shock eyelet hole on the a-arm to get to 26mm and that's the lowest I can get it, running Rebar tires.

RMabus

Does anyone know of a battery strap that is longer than stock. I would like to run my battery mounts at the longest location and have the ability to adjust my battery back and forth some on the slow fly!