tc5 man

Dont know if this will work with the 2.0 but for sure worked on the 1.0 mount the Front shocks into the Middle hole on the arms on the Front end your ride height might be higher so you might need to readjust it. I moved my battery back which is a big diffrence on tight tracks. But since the 2.0 already has the weight toward the rear maybe try the Forward position or the Middle.

Make sure the steering saver is pretty tight is #1 and Tires that has a lot to do with it.

blade329

iTrader: (114)

SDRC is indoor clay, right? The TLR team drivers have some very good setups for that type of track.

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

has anyone removed the side nerf bars on the 2.0? My nerf bars just keep tearing up my bodies?is there any effect by removing the bars?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The 2.0 nerf bars contact the body pretty high and work pretty well. Much better then the 1.0.

If you don't want them though they are held on by 2 screws each..........

BDRMBULLY

iTrader: (40)

I run without nerf bars but when someone t-bones you on ur esc side its gna hurt your pocket a lil lol

Casper

iTrader: (34)

the ESC is kind of protected by the tire. Kind of hard to get all the way into the ESC but to each there own. I cut the nerf bars off the 1.0 and I know ryan just removed the mud guards all together.

XRated SCT

Alright I'll try that
@blade, is there a link to any of the setups

maddog9

iTrader: (30)

If u need more low speed or more off power steering try green sping in the front and silver springs in the rear. And the short acherman. Gave my a lot more steering off power for indoor clay.

XRated SCT

Alright thanks

Grandturk

iTrader: (5)

FWIW - I ran with no nerf bars on my 1.0 for 2 years but now I keep the nerf bars on the 2.0. Here's what I noticed:

1 - when you're on you're lid or being marshalled - the Marshall naturally reaches for the space between the body and the chassis expecting a nerf bar handle to grab. When it's not there - they just grab body and Marshall your car. I know, I've done it as well. This means more stress/damage to your body.

2 - I've taken a direct t-bone hit to my motor that jarred it enough that the front bearing imploded as a direct, immediate result - costing me the run

So, as a result if this, I've decided to run nerf bars on the 2.0. I haven't had any issues with the body being damaged by them - if anything they also protect the body in "pipe crossing" maneuvers as well.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

Put some velcro on the nerf bar and then match that velcro with some inside the body. It will keep the center of the body from flexing down when you finish your "pipe crossing" maneuver on your lid and will minimize the amount the body rattles around. Seriously, the nerf bar with velcro on it will help protect the body.

Brian C.

iTrader: (1)

Hey any who used to have a 1.0 and now has a 2.0 do you think the 2.0 was worth it, because I have every upgrade on my 1.0 and just want to know if you guys thought it was worth it?

tc5 man

I run a upgraded 1.0 ive driven the 2.0 indoors not Outdoors the 2.0 does have more on power steering/turn in jumps easier. Its it worth it if you want a new model to run or just a total rebuild than yea. But the 1.0 is still very compeitive with most 4x4 SC, Ive only seen one guy running the 2.0 that i race with at the Outdoor track i go to.

Im competitive with it outdoors.

Remember its mostly driver and setup really.

TCCustoms

iTrader: (9)

i use gorilla tape or duct tape inside my bodies where the nerf bars rubbed and that helps alot and this way nothing actually is touching the paint to wear it off or rub the body even

imbsbiaoy

x2 although I use aluminum tape. I also use it in the wheel wells to avoid tires rubbing the paint off as well.