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Old 04-03-2013, 03:51 AM
  #2881  
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What weight oil is everyone using in their Shocks?
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:00 AM
  #2882  
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Originally Posted by maddog9
This past saturday was a higher competition club race at my local track. Had tq rounds 1 and 2 and in round 3 was beat out by 2 seconds. Start 2nd and finish 2nd in the Main. I was able to beat a fast small sponsored tekno driver and was able to beat the guy who usually always win with his 1.0 scte.
Mad Dog was the class of the field Saturday. He should have won the main, but luck wasn't on his side this day. The stats show that he was at least .8 faster per lap than the Tekno driver he mentioned. He was 2 seconds per lap faster than me, and I won two of the qualifiers in my Tekno! He was dialed! He let me drive his 2.0 and it is easy to see why he was so fast (besides being a great driver)-this thing is a rocket! Debating on whether to retire my rig in favor of a 2.0.
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Old 04-03-2013, 04:11 AM
  #2883  
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Originally Posted by 2low4u
What weight oil is everyone using in their Shocks?
If your running the stock pistons run 27.5 Losi shock oil all around.
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:05 AM
  #2884  
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Yes i'm running stock pistons, i guess it wouldn't hurt to bump up the fronts to 35/40?
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Old 04-03-2013, 06:24 AM
  #2885  
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Originally Posted by 2low4u
Yes i'm running stock pistons, i guess it wouldn't hurt to bump up the fronts to 35/40?
Depends what you need or want? Heavier oil will give you better turn in but will make the car understeer on exit. And the steering will be more responsive.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:03 AM
  #2886  
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Originally Posted by 2low4u
Yes i'm running stock pistons, i guess it wouldn't hurt to bump up the fronts to 35/40?
Well unless ur indoor the -40 temp in PEI should call for about 0.5 weight LOL
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:07 AM
  #2887  
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BTW we are almost finished bag D and the shocks are on the list of things to build...
Im sure its in the manual but what is the included shock oil that comes in the kit? im at work with no manual.
standard Losi 30 wt clear or is it 27.5?
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:13 AM
  #2888  
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Originally Posted by xxfile
BTW we are almost finished bag D and the shocks are on the list of things to build...
Im sure its in the manual but what is the included shock oil that comes in the kit? im at work with no manual.
standard Losi 30 wt clear or is it 27.5?
27.5 was included with the kit #3 pistons front and #4 rear
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:14 AM
  #2889  
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Originally Posted by xxfile
BTW we are almost finished bag D and the shocks are on the list of things to build...
Im sure its in the manual but what is the included shock oil that comes in the kit? im at work with no manual.
standard Losi 30 wt clear or is it 27.5?
It should be close to 27.5. The kits never come with "losi/TLR" oil but it is usually very close to what they say it is. I always use my oil when building kits for what it is worth. The kit stuff should be real close to 27.5 though.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:45 AM
  #2890  
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Ran the truck for about the sixth time last night. So far I have broken the right front c hub (driver error ) and the center rear cv pin (I might have cranked down on the set screw to hard). The truck is awesome. I'm still working on my driving but I have gotten a lot better with the changes I made. The track is med size indoor, clay dirt mix. I'm running the tekin 4600 pro4 which is crazy fast. I have turned the power down a little but probably need to do it a little more. To try and tame the power on the truck I put 10 in the center diff (not sure if that was the right thing to do or if I like it yet). I also moved the rear hubs back to make it more stable. With all the power from the 4600 I can spin it out whenever I want, or don't want. Someone suggested I increase to droop as much as possible. The shock ends are screwed in about half way and I backed the droop screws all the way out. I have 88mm in front and 104mm in the rear. The truck is much better but could be better (and the operator ).

One thing I didn't try yet and the people at the track suggested is increasing the shock oil. With all the droop now, the truck is moving a lot. Guys that are running the 1.0 with stock 1.0 pistons are running around 60wt oil front and rear. I'm using 2 hole #55 front and rear with 32.5 front and 30 rear. I'm thinking of going up to maybe 45 front and 40 rear. What do you guys think?

Any suggestion or advice would greatly be appreciated. I love working with this truck, making it better and making me a better driver.
Thanks for the help and advice guys.
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:47 AM
  #2891  
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Just a heads up also when adjusting oil utilize the shock mount locations....i.m running the ae 2 hole shock inserts with 35 in the front and 30 in the rear
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Old 04-03-2013, 07:49 AM
  #2892  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
Ran the truck for about the sixth time last night. So far I have broken the right front c hub (driver error ) and the center rear cv pin (I might have cranked down on the set screw to hard). The truck is awesome. I'm still working on my driving but I have gotten a lot better with the changes I made. The track is med size indoor, clay dirt mix. I'm running the tekin 4600 pro4 which is crazy fast. I have turned the power down a little but probably need to do it a little more. To try and tame the power on the truck I put 10 in the center diff (not sure if that was the right thing to do or if I like it yet). I also moved the rear hubs back to make it more stable. With all the power from the 4600 I can spin it out whenever I want, or don't want. Someone suggested I increase to droop as much as possible. The shock ends are screwed in about half way and I backed the droop screws all the way out. I have 88mm in front and 104mm in the rear. The truck is much better but could be better (and the operator ).

One thing I didn't try yet and the people at the track suggested is increasing the shock oil. With all the droop now, the truck is moving a lot. Guys that are running the 1.0 with stock 1.0 pistons are running around 60wt oil front and rear. I'm using 2 hole #55 front and rear with 32.5 front and 30 rear. I'm thinking of going up to maybe 45 front and 40 rear. What do you guys think?

Any suggestion or advice would greatly be appreciated. I love working with this truck, making it better and making me a better driver.
Thanks for the help and advice guys.
That is really thick oil (60 with stock pistons) Are you running on carpet?

With two hole pistons we are a little thicker then when we were with the stock pistons FYI.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:07 AM
  #2893  
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No, dirt clay mix, hard packed. The fast guys say they don't slid around and they are pretty stuck to the track. Some use clay compound and some use soft. I ran soft square fuzzies last night. I liked it better than the clay Rattlers. I might just be over powering the track with the 4600.

Casper any suggestions on taming the 4600 with the rx8, or should I get a smaller motor? I used Ryan's RX8 setup and it help with driving I think because of the neutral position being at 32. My settings are:
Neutral position 32
throttle curve linear (3 I think)
timing 10 (3 deg)
current limiter 70
no drag brake or push

I tried the curve at 2 (soft). I didn't like it. I like the throttle response just not so much punch that brakes the tires loose.

When we start racing outdoors I think the 4600 will be good, just not now, indoors.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:27 AM
  #2894  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
No, dirt clay mix, hard packed. The fast guys say they don't slid around and they are pretty stuck to the track. Some use clay compound and some use soft. I ran soft square fuzzies last night. I liked it better than the clay Rattlers. I might just be over powering the track with the 4600.

Casper any suggestions on taming the 4600 with the rx8, or should I get a smaller motor? I used Ryan's RX8 setup and it help with driving I think because of the neutral position being at 32. My settings are:
Neutral position 32
throttle curve linear (3 I think)
timing 10 (3 deg)
current limiter 70
no drag brake or push

I tried the curve at 2 (soft). I didn't like it. I like the throttle response just not so much punch that brakes the tires loose.

When we start racing outdoors I think the 4600 will be good, just not now, indoors.
You can drop the current limiter down more. Adding expo some will help but you kind of did that with the throttle curve on the ESC. You can adjust this on your radio some or you can actually make custom curve to soften that up some more. Or just work on your throttle control some more. These motors have a ton of bottom end so you need to be a little careful pulling the trigger in the turns. I roll on through the exit of the corner and then punch it.

Really current limiter and expo are the only ways I can think of taking bottom end away. How are you geared and what are you motor temps? Gearing up can smooth out bottom as well if you can get away with it.

For clay dirt mix those shock settings seem way too stiff.
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:16 AM
  #2895  
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I have 14 pinion on motor. I came off the track after a 5 min heat at 145 deg on the motor. How hot is to hot for this motor? I just took a look at the notes I had from the guy I bought the rx8 off of. He ran it in a 4x4 Durango sc. He had the pinion at 16 and the current limiter at 30 and 0 timing. This was on the same track and dirt I'm running on. I think he told me he talked to Randy about those settings for this track, but I'm not sure.

Maybe I'll try that. What are your thoughts on that?
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