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TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread

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TLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread

Old 03-13-2013, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by tupapi77
So what are you guys running as far as motors? I am changing mine from a novak 4.5 to ??????

Tekin 4300 HD 4 pole?

what else??
I have had the luxury of trying one of the new HD motors and they provide some serious raw power. That comes with the weight though of the longer can. So, for your needs, you may want to try the pro4 4600 540 size and one of the 4300HD motors...but just my .02.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:02 AM
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Im running a 5000 mah 20-30c batteries and i get about 17 - 20mins a pack on my Jammin with the MMP and 3800 4pole combo

Are you saying the Tekin 4300 Pro4HD is too much for a 2s setup? I was thinknig of running the 4300kv with my new losi when it comes?
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by tupapi77
So what are you guys running as far as motors? I am changing mine from a novak 4.5 to ??????

Tekin 4300 HD 4 pole?

what else??
If you get your money for nuthin and your chicks for free than yes the New Tekin would be nice.A lot of us are running the HW XERUN 4000 kv 4-pole sensored for $85 dollars shipped from builtrc.com.Easily will run down the the 4600 pro -4 and stays cool!!!!COOL!!!!!!!P.S. I switched from the 4600 to this 4000,thats how I know..
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
I have had the luxury of trying one of the new HD motors and they provide some serious raw power. That comes with the weight though of the longer can. So, for your needs, you may want to try the pro4 4600 540 size and one of the 4300HD motors...but just my .02.
Thanks Ryan, I am looking at the 4600 since is available now
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BmainStar
If you get your money for nuthin and your chicks for free than yes the New Tekin would be nice.A lot of us are running the HW XERUN 4000 kv 4-pole sensored for $85 dollars shipped from builtrc.com.Easily will run down the the 4600 pro -4 and stays cool!!!!COOL!!!!!!!
Thanks Bud, something to consider as well
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Casper
You need to have some glue on the top and bottom of the piston to keep the "plug" in place.

Check out this great little article from Ryan.
http://losiracing.blogspot.com/2012/...e-pistons.html

Tires are critical for any setup. Truck balance is important.

What is normal traction like at your track? Is the track smooth or bumpy? If you are runny fuzzies I would assume smooth and at least med bite.

I would either stick with the kit setup for shocks (front 27.5 #3's, Rear 27.5 #4's) or try the 2 hole pistons again.

The kit setup works well and we ran that for a long time but the 2 hole setup gives improved pack characteristics for better landing and a little better truck stability.

The kit setup for front camber link will give a little better off power steering and a little less on power. We like the latest position in Ryan's setup posted on the first page as it kind of forces you to drive on power. We have found the rear end holds well still and since you are picking up the throttle faster it is lowering lap times. This change was a driving style change for both Ryan and I but the truck liked the setup.




I agree with this to a point. I agree everyone drives different and one setup is not perfect for everyone. With all that being said there never is a Magic end all say all setup that works everywhere and for everyone so as always we are here to help any individual help setup there truck for them and there track but the kit setup and the new dunford setup with 2 hole pistons we feel are great starting points and have been very sucessful in the hands of many drivers. The kit setup is basically where we were with the 1.0 truck with new towers and some other things we have been testing for a long time.
It's just I see it to often that people "especially new drivers" are so worried that they need the latest and greatest setup or equipment. Sometimes it can make your driving even worse. Trust me I have fell victim to this also. Now I just always go with stock kit setup and learn to tune car to my driving/track.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:37 AM
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I am using the same setup Ryan had posted on page one of this thread. The only thing that I changed from his setup, is the ride height.

Casper: The track is a med size indoor track. It is hard packed clay/dirt mixed and it is kind of bumpy. I talked to people there yesterday and some say run soft and others said you have to have clays. Pretty much any small pin or bar type tire will work. I see you said the #3 pistons on the front with 27.5 oil. I was in a rush to get it done so after the plug fell out, I put the #3 with 30 oil in the rear.

I'm going to redo all four shock. I am going to put the pistons in acetone to clean them up and then start over. This time, no tooth picks and will use accelerator. Between that and putting clay Rattlers or IONs on, I should be good. I'll also look into the front camber link position, but that will be an "at the track change".

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:41 AM
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whats the part number on the 2 hole #55 pistons? Thanks.
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by TCCustoms
ok, got mine all done tonight and of course i come up from RC CAVE(basement) and the ground is covered with snow again......WTF?!?!!?!?

But here is a pic all done and wired up....sold the 2 sets of rims and rings on here so i just have the cheapy duratrax banditos for running on the roads out front on there for now


And here is a link to the build pics and everything so far...
http://s1227.beta.photobucket.com/us...0Pics/SCTE%202
Did you think about running your wires out the front of the tabs of your motor? Might be a lot cleaner/less weight/some less resistance.

That's how I've been running my SCTE v1.5 and it seems to work great.

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Old 03-13-2013, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Blitzrockey
whats the part number on the 2 hole #55 pistons? Thanks.
http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR5090

If you have a 22 series kit you may already have some!
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Old 03-13-2013, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by goehm
Did you think about running your wires out the front of the tabs of your motor? Might be a lot cleaner/less weight/some less resistance.

That's how I've been running my SCTE v1.5 and it seems to work great.

What kind of battery tray is that? I made one out of an old b4.1 chassis kind of similar to yours.
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by huzzler
It's just I see it to often that people "especially new drivers" are so worried that they need the latest and greatest setup or equipment. Sometimes it can make your driving even worse. Trust me I have fell victim to this also. Now I just always go with stock kit setup and learn to tune car to my driving/track.
The standard set ups for the scte is not that far from what could be called the stock set up.Nothing crazy and gives a good guideline as to a starting point.Other than going to the 55 pistons glued which is not a must,the set ups are very neutral.The stock pistons work just fine....
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by huzzler
What kind of battery tray is that? I made one out of an old b4.1 chassis kind of similar to yours.
It's a Schumacher battery retainer and strap from a touring car. I took those and laid 'em over a sheet a carbon fiber to create a flat surface for the battery to sit on.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Strap-w-Posts

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Lipo-Retainer

Very light, works great, low center of gravity. Super convenient to remove the battery and it keeps the connectors nice and tidy.
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Old 03-13-2013, 12:44 PM
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Got the wireing done last night finally. Just so everyone knows this Speed Passions ESC has not been fully cleared to run in 4x SC so please dont run out and buy one assuming it is okay. There is some testing with good sucess but not recommended by SP quite yet.







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Old 03-13-2013, 12:51 PM
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funny ive not seen a single person here running castle stuff =(
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