10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
03-11-2013, 08:09 PM
#1771
I'm in the process of building a new TLR SCTE 2.0 kit.
My diffs themselves are smooth... feels like I got them built right.
Once the diffs are installed into their gearboxes (LOSB3104), when I fully tighten the gearbox screws, the diff binds on part of the rotation. It'll spin freely for 85% of a rotation...then it binds/slows down for the remaining 15% then frees up.
Inspecting the housing, there is VERY LITTLE clearance between the ring gear and the gearbox itself. Suspecting this as the source of the bind I shaved a bit of gearbox plastic material away and it seemed to help. I got them moving in the gearbox smoothly (or so I thought).
However, now that everything is installed onto the chasis... at least one of the three gearboxes is still binding (extra friction, not freezing) on part of the rotation.
Is this a known problem with a known fix? Will the bind work itself out after I run it for a bit (the metal ring gears chewing through whatever plastic is binding and then running free?).
Thanks in ad ance for any pointers!
My diffs themselves are smooth... feels like I got them built right.
Once the diffs are installed into their gearboxes (LOSB3104), when I fully tighten the gearbox screws, the diff binds on part of the rotation. It'll spin freely for 85% of a rotation...then it binds/slows down for the remaining 15% then frees up.
Inspecting the housing, there is VERY LITTLE clearance between the ring gear and the gearbox itself. Suspecting this as the source of the bind I shaved a bit of gearbox plastic material away and it seemed to help. I got them moving in the gearbox smoothly (or so I thought).
However, now that everything is installed onto the chasis... at least one of the three gearboxes is still binding (extra friction, not freezing) on part of the rotation.
Is this a known problem with a known fix? Will the bind work itself out after I run it for a bit (the metal ring gears chewing through whatever plastic is binding and then running free?).
Thanks in ad ance for any pointers!
03-11-2013, 08:14 PM
#1772
At this point seeing every one with their 2.0 is really starting to PISS ME OFF!!!
I had a million spares from my 1.0 and very fresh parts to build a 2.0!WHERE are the parts RYAN!????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????Pegasus does not even have the kits yet!!!!!!!!!Where are the parts????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????
:f laming::flamin g:I know in a month it wont even matter but this is Toy cars and I am an impatient Scrubb wanting to play with ever body else....
I had a million spares from my 1.0 and very fresh parts to build a 2.0!WHERE are the parts RYAN!????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????Pegasus does not even have the kits yet!!!!!!!!!Where are the parts????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????
:f laming::flamin g:I know in a month it wont even matter but this is Toy cars and I am an impatient Scrubb wanting to play with ever body else....Last edited by BmainStar; 03-11-2013 at 08:27 PM.
03-11-2013, 08:17 PM
#1773
Here is what I did with the thumb screws if anyone wants to try this...
I put a piece of 1/8" foam unter the battery strap,
That raised the strap up enough so that the thumb screw only went on to the posts about half way when everything got snug,
That gave me enough room in the thumb screw to put a 5-40x1/8" set screw.
Like Casper said I locked the front post in place also with a set screwand leave it in place all the time and when I put the rear one on I snug the thumb screw and lock it in place with the set screw
All day I never had to crank down on the thumb screws so the battery strap didn't bow up and the set screws kept me fom losing the thumb screws
I put a piece of 1/8" foam unter the battery strap,
That raised the strap up enough so that the thumb screw only went on to the posts about half way when everything got snug,
That gave me enough room in the thumb screw to put a 5-40x1/8" set screw.
Like Casper said I locked the front post in place also with a set screwand leave it in place all the time and when I put the rear one on I snug the thumb screw and lock it in place with the set screw
All day I never had to crank down on the thumb screws so the battery strap didn't bow up and the set screws kept me fom losing the thumb screws
parts!
03-11-2013, 08:33 PM
#1775
:rolley es:
In this economy they should be after every dollar that they could get ...Kits and parts..BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH AND IT IS NOT THE HANGER 24 IPA...Might be LOL........................PISSED !!!!!!!And quenched!!LOL
03-11-2013, 08:54 PM
#1776
Tech Master
iTrader: (90)
Ya great Marketing ,Just lie to those that are brand loyal hoping they will hang on .I guess.. And Yes they obviously were not on the same shipment as promised.....:rolley es: In this economy they should be after every dollar that they could get ...Kits and parts..BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH AND IT IS NOT THE HANGER 24 IPA...Might be LOL........................PISSED !!!!!!!And quenched!!LOL
:rolley es: In this economy they should be after every dollar that they could get ...Kits and parts..BAD TASTE IN MY MOUTH AND IT IS NOT THE HANGER 24 IPA...Might be LOL........................PISSED !!!!!!!And quenched!!LOLOr join us in the dark side.
03-11-2013, 08:55 PM
#1777
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dos Andos
Can you just use the associated 12mm 2 hole pistons on the SCTE 2.0 as you do in the 22 and 22sct if you want to run the Ryan/Casper setup?
Cheers
Those pistons have holes that are too big and will not generate enough pack for this truck.
I ran them on sunday and she worked well!
Lol... Can I have a tie breaker on this one?
Originally Posted by Dos Andos
Can you just use the associated 12mm 2 hole pistons on the SCTE 2.0 as you do in the 22 and 22sct if you want to run the Ryan/Casper setup?
Cheers
Those pistons have holes that are too big and will not generate enough pack for this truck.
I ran them on sunday and she worked well!
Lol... Can I have a tie breaker on this one?
The dark side keeps calling.
03-11-2013, 10:49 PM
#1781
Hang in there bud they will be here soon. Ryan addressed this issue and is very upset about it himself. Some things are not in his or our control. It is worth the wait I can tell you that. Evolution Sports in Redlands has a kit in the shelf. If you are interested tell Louis I sent you he will take care of you!
03-11-2013, 11:11 PM
#1782
Also has some noteable disadvantages. Tekno may have kits available but have a stub axle issue that you can not get if yours breaks (saw 2 on Saturday at TNS). This thread should not be used to determine which 4x SC is the best I am simply proving every manufacture has their issues.
Hang in there bud they will be here soon. Ryan addressed this issue and is very upset about it himself. Some things are not in his or our control. It is worth the wait I can tell you that. Evolution Sports in Redlands has a kit in the shelf. If you are interested tell Louis I sent you he will take care of you!
Hang in there bud they will be here soon. Ryan addressed this issue and is very upset about it himself. Some things are not in his or our control. It is worth the wait I can tell you that. Evolution Sports in Redlands has a kit in the shelf. If you are interested tell Louis I sent you he will take care of you!
Just expressing my frustration somewhere, the GF is sick of hearing it LOL
Just a big Kid wanting To play in the sand box with the New Toy LOL Have all the option parts and new arms and bearings,screws,drive line, etc. ...alright done crying ...Just gotta wait it out....
03-11-2013, 11:29 PM
#1783
Ya I know its not Ryan's doing but he is the cloeset Target LOL
Just expressing my frustration somewhere, the GF is sick of hearing it LOL
Just a big Kid wanting To play in the sand box with the New Toy LOL Have all the option parts and new arms and bearings,screws,drive line, etc. ...alright done crying ...Just gotta wait it out....
Just expressing my frustration somewhere, the GF is sick of hearing it LOL
Just a big Kid wanting To play in the sand box with the New Toy LOL Have all the option parts and new arms and bearings,screws,drive line, etc. ...alright done crying ...Just gotta wait it out....
My wife was like "just drive it in the street if you want to drive it so bad". I go " um, no, you dont understand. This is a race machine". And thats when she realized im a total... total rc nerd.
Anyways hahaha. The build went good just waiting on a 275mm sensor wire and paint.
(Dont forget your 275mm sensor wires everyone) I recommend TQ Wire!!!!
03-12-2013, 12:22 AM
#1784
Tech Rookie
I'm in the process of building a new TLR SCTE 2.0 kit.
My diffs themselves are smooth... feels like I got them built right.
Once the diffs are installed into their gearboxes (LOSB3104), when I fully tighten the gearbox screws, the diff binds on part of the rotation. It'll spin freely for 85% of a rotation...then it binds/slows down for the remaining 15% then frees up.
Inspecting the housing, there is VERY LITTLE clearance between the ring gear and the gearbox itself. Suspecting this as the source of the bind I shaved a bit of gearbox plastic material away and it seemed to help. I got them moving in the gearbox smoothly (or so I thought).
However, now that everything is installed onto the chasis... at least one of the three gearboxes is still binding (extra friction, not freezing) on part of the rotation.
Is this a known problem with a known fix? Will the bind work itself out after I run it for a bit (the metal ring gears chewing through whatever plastic is binding and then running free?).
Thanks in ad ance for any pointers!
My diffs themselves are smooth... feels like I got them built right.
Once the diffs are installed into their gearboxes (LOSB3104), when I fully tighten the gearbox screws, the diff binds on part of the rotation. It'll spin freely for 85% of a rotation...then it binds/slows down for the remaining 15% then frees up.
Inspecting the housing, there is VERY LITTLE clearance between the ring gear and the gearbox itself. Suspecting this as the source of the bind I shaved a bit of gearbox plastic material away and it seemed to help. I got them moving in the gearbox smoothly (or so I thought).
However, now that everything is installed onto the chasis... at least one of the three gearboxes is still binding (extra friction, not freezing) on part of the rotation.
Is this a known problem with a known fix? Will the bind work itself out after I run it for a bit (the metal ring gears chewing through whatever plastic is binding and then running free?).
Thanks in ad ance for any pointers!
03-12-2013, 04:24 AM
#1785
I've heard this from a lot of people by now, is this related to the new diff's or diff housings ?