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Old 03-06-2013, 05:55 PM
  #1381  
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Originally Posted by KC10Chief
I'm not allowed to drive my cars and trucks or fly my quadcopters in the house any more. My wife was getting mad about all the damage.
haha, my wife doest care for me driving mine in the house but the dog(Alaskan Malamute) hates it....even for being a large breed, u'd think she was gonna get killed by it cuz she freaks even when the servo twitches

Should have the whole front completed tonight before cashing in for the night and just found out that falconsekido doesnt have any of the 4000kv motors in so i must have bought the last one, WOOOOOHOOOOOOOO! Hopefully the QTEQ connections come in the mail tomorrow
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Old 03-06-2013, 07:09 PM
  #1382  
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Originally Posted by hacker07
I was able to get these off of HCP so the other orders shoudl spool soon.
what do you mean you were able to get them off of hcp? does that mean that shops that are not certified partners are going to get them sooner than the 2 weeks? i was talking the the owner of the LHS Monday about the scte 2.0 and the whole hcp thing and he is a die hard losi guy and he was very angry about the whole certified partner thing. he said he lost out on at least 3 sales because of it and he was so mad at the time he was talking about switching over to the "other" 4x4sc and 1/8 buggy because of it.I was really shocked.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:21 PM
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i hope my LHS gets them in next week. he said he had 4 on order, i am third to get one its paid for now just the waiting game. its ok i have full eletronics ready to go.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:48 PM
  #1384  
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Well got my truck togther went smooth up to mounting the motor, The motor has a centering lip around the bearing area and the face of the motor. Had to bevel the mout like on the pinion side which Ive had to do on my other truck. I am missing 2 oring's that go inside the shock collors. Guess Ill be calling customer support tomorrow. But other than that it was super smooth going together. Where can I find more current setup for the new truck.
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:56 PM
  #1385  
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Most guys going to run bladders or emulsion?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown up
Most guys going to run bladders or emulsion?
Emulsion for sure! I bought both the 55 and MIP pistons to try out. In a moment of weakness I called the local shops and no one has the kit. waiting for the parts has been......challenging. I even called up SDRC and they were like no we're kinda Tekno heavy here. . They've got a wall ramp now, pretty cool looking.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:33 AM
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Get that new 2.0 ready for sat blown up!!! really wanna see it trackside
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:35 AM
  #1388  
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Hey TLR guys why no aluminum rear wheel spindle thingie like in the TLR upgrade kit?
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:43 AM
  #1389  
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We'll see...You'r gonna have to front me electronics too! I really wanted to talk w/Carl about some setup. This TLR stuff is all new to me!
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:53 AM
  #1390  
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im assuming no alum rear bearing carries and no aluminum front steerting? what about the steering post / ackerman plate?
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:16 AM
  #1391  
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Originally Posted by Casper
We are currently running full droop with 2 turns out on the front and 1 turn out on the rear. When we run blue groove racing we typically use the droop screws though.
I know you are trying to keep it simple for people, but how many mm would that be as far as shock length?

Also, is there any type of break in process for a new kit? i remember something about hold the right wheels and let the lefts spin 6 times or something like that?
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:38 AM
  #1392  
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Noticed during my build-

- The front arms contact the chassis droop inserts - even with the droop screws backed all the way out. Not sure if this will limit maximum droop once the shocks are on. Also the screws will eventually dig into the plastic of the arms as they contact over and over.

- the manual says to set the sway bars flush with the balls. If you do so not only does this pull the sway bar in the front very tight - it also impacts the rod ends under compression when using the lower outer camber link holes.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:42 AM
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Yeah I was wondering the same thing about the Limiter/droop number. The is the only thing blank on the setup sheet.

What would be a good number to start with for full droop in inch or mm. I will be racing on a Med size indoor, hard packed dirt track? I am going to set the ride hight at 25 - 25 to start.
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Old 03-07-2013, 06:51 AM
  #1394  
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer
Yeah I was wondering the same thing about the Limiter/droop number. The is the only thing blank on the setup sheet.

What would be a good number to start with for full droop in inch or mm. I will be racing on a Med size indoor, hard packed dirt track? I am going to set the ride hight at 25 - 25 to start.
Full droop is full droop. It's the maximum length the suspension can extend. That's going to be mechanically limited by the suspension component geometry and shock length.

Usually when the setup sheet says "full droop" that means the droop screws are backed out so they don't limit travel and in some cases shock length is altered by unscrewing the bottom shock end to lengthen the shock a bit. There's only so far you can go
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:37 AM
  #1395  
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Originally Posted by maddog9
I know you are trying to keep it simple for people, but how many mm would that be as far as shock length?

Also, is there any type of break in process for a new kit? i remember something about hold the right wheels and let the lefts spin 6 times or something like that?
Any new kit usually needs to be run a bit to break in some. The bearings will get a little more free, things will seat...but the kit is pretty darn good right off the bat.
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