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Old 12-19-2015, 11:40 PM   #8821
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Quick question regarding the Team Losi Racing SCTE to 22 Shock Conversion Set.
I still own the 22 1.0 buggy (just for spare parts). Can I use the shocks from it and just buy the rear shock tower?
Trying to save a few bucks

Thanks
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Old 12-20-2015, 10:33 AM   #8822
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Originally Posted by braderb View Post
Quick question regarding the Team Losi Racing SCTE to 22 Shock Conversion Set.
I still own the 22 1.0 buggy (just for spare parts). Can I use the shocks from it and just buy the rear shock tower?
Trying to save a few bucks

Thanks
Not really. Basically the fronts are 22 rears and the rears are 22-4 rears. So you are half way there. You need all the mounting hardware as well. New lower shock balls, upper shock mounts. It is truely a conversion kit as 22 shocks do not just bolt on the SCTE since you are basicaly putting a "metric" shock on a "Std" hardware car. So the conversion does all this work for you.
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Old 12-20-2015, 12:08 PM   #8823
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Kit makes more sense

Thanks Casper
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Old 12-20-2015, 06:57 PM   #8824
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I have an older SCTE roller that I was racing a couple years ago. I recently pulled it back off the shelf and am going through it so I can start racing again. One of the things I need to replace if the steering and camber links. Any suggestions for link ends with no slop?
Curious about this as well. I am about to do a full rebuild on my 2.0 and the stock rod ends & balls have a terrible amount of slop after very little use. Has anyone found a better option then the stock parts?
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Old 12-20-2015, 07:39 PM   #8825
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Curious about this as well. I am about to do a full rebuild on my 2.0 and the stock rod ends & balls have a terrible amount of slop after very little use. Has anyone found a better option then the stock parts?
For shock balls, you can use the steel ones from the Losi 8 shocks. For balls on the inner camber link ends you can use the inner balls from a Losi 8 2.0 (1.0 and 3.0 are bigger and won't work). For the outer camber link balls the most wear resistant aluminum I have found are the Losi 8 2.0 balls, but they need to be modded (narrowed) to fit. Or use the SCTE HA ball kit. Or Tekno 6.8mm steel balls.
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Old 12-21-2015, 12:40 AM   #8826
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Any 6.8mm steel ball in the stock rod ends will last me two years and then only the loose ones need to be replaced. Trick is finding the right offset or size that fits inside the outer carriers and hubs. I use some CEN 6.8mm balls with 3mm harden cap screws. Unfortunately, I cant find them now as they are old stock. These CEN steel balls are Super durable and worth every gram of weight. I'm sure others can share how they dealt with it but this all but eliminates slop for a long time. CEN Racing Ball B6.8 GS017
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Old 12-21-2015, 07:21 AM   #8827
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Any 6.8mm steel ball in the stock rod ends will last me two years and then only the loose ones need to be replaced. Trick is finding the right offset or size that fits inside the outer carriers and hubs. I use some CEN 6.8mm balls with 3mm harden cap screws. Unfortunately, I cant find them now as they are old stock. These CEN steel balls are Super durable and worth every gram of weight. I'm sure others can share how they dealt with it but this all but eliminates slop for a long time. CEN Racing Ball B6.8 GS017
http://cenracing.shptron.com/p/gs017-ball-b6-8
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Old 12-22-2015, 02:53 PM   #8828
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That's what you want. Need stock rod ends, 3mm bolts and nuts and you are set.
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Old 12-26-2015, 10:26 PM   #8829
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Is there a drive shaft coupler set I can buy with out the drive shafts? Having a hard time finding this info and not sure if there are different size couplers depending on the vehicle.
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Old 12-28-2015, 09:14 AM   #8830
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Is there a drive shaft coupler set I can buy with out the drive shafts? Having a hard time finding this info and not sure if there are different size couplers depending on the vehicle.
The part number is TLR332051.

If you go tot tlracing.com and then pick the vehicle in the middle there, then go to the parts and accessories tab, you have a few options and that can always help you find the parts for all of our cars.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:25 PM   #8831
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A quick question for the torque rods that come with the 2.0, (first post btw).

I use the MIP rigid chassis braces on my scte because I kept breaking the plastic ends of the TLR torque rods. I feel however, that there is a side effect of where the chassis is too stiff with such a rigid brace and can lead to a stiffer truck. Can somebody acknowledge me on this?
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:29 PM   #8832
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A quick question for the torque rods that come with the 2.0, (first post btw).

I use the MIP rigid chassis braces on my scte because I kept breaking the plastic ends of the TLR torque rods. I feel however, that there is a side effect of where the chassis is too stiff with such a rigid brace and can lead to a stiffer truck. Can somebody acknowledge me on this?
IMO the truck works better with the stock braces than any other option I've tried. When you assemble the torque rods you need to screw the threaded part all the way into the rod end until it bottoms out and back it off slightly like 1/2 turn. Then assemble them with loctite in the metal to metal connection. If you don't bottom out the screw in the rod it will flex too much and break.
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Old 12-30-2015, 06:43 PM   #8833
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IMO the truck works better with the stock braces than any other option I've tried. When you assemble the torque rods you need to screw the threaded part all the way into the rod end until it bottoms out and back it off slightly like 1/2 turn. Then assemble them with loctite in the metal to metal connection. If you don't bottom out the screw in the rod it will flex too much and break.
Thanks, I will try and see if that works. If it doesn't it's probably my really aggressive driving style.
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Old 12-30-2015, 07:53 PM   #8834
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Any 6.8mm steel ball in the stock rod ends will last me two years and then only the loose ones need to be replaced. Trick is finding the right offset or size that fits inside the outer carriers and hubs. I use some CEN 6.8mm balls with 3mm harden cap screws. Unfortunately, I cant find them now as they are old stock. These CEN steel balls are Super durable and worth every gram of weight. I'm sure others can share how they dealt with it but this all but eliminates slop for a long time. CEN Racing Ball B6.8 GS017
I modded my previous scte with some losi 2.0 balls,but struggled getting them to work on the outer hubs also. I used some mip links for steering,but the screws were a pain on the steering rack Tried the losi HA balls,they are better but not worth the effort,steel is only whay to go imho.I always wondered why the losi 8 2.0 buggy used the smaller balls and ends,and all the other losi and other brands used the bigger ones?I had to use teflon tape on screws that went through the balls to really get them tight.someone has to make more precise fit balls and screws than this. my stock tekno 410 is crazy tight precise with stock parts and seems to never wear out,but those ends will not work on the scte


I have another scte that needs tightening up,can someone post the parts #s to all the parts needed to do so including the screws and nuts for these cen balls,as well as the losi 2.0 plastic ends I got way more durability outa those plastics than the stock ends.do the cen balls fit inside the steering rack? trying to order all these parts at local hs is a pain without part numbers.... this should be a sticky on first page info if someone has all the part #s needed to do so
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Old 01-03-2016, 03:52 PM   #8835
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Just converted my diffs to oil, my ring gears are almost brand new and there seems to be a rough spot on the ring gear when the housing is assembled. Iv inspected the ring and pinion and cant see anything wrong with them. Is this normal? Will it smooth out with some runs or am i doing something wrong?
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