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Old 09-25-2015, 11:24 PM   #8671
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Thinking more on it, I think I would just go ahead and break down the whole front end from the chassis and really check the servo-saver assembly out. It sounds as if something it binding/bent or overly loose with the bellcranks.
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:13 AM   #8672
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i use the short vision racing link and have no issue,this truck im speaking of has the stock long link in the correct holes,the pictured steering rod end coming off the servo is hitting the drag link before steering lock occurs.it looks like the one pictured is hitting in the same spot by the marks on it,Ive seen this occur in alot of losi sc. The other issue in the steering end hit the side of the tranny case before full left steering stop occurs, thats a easy dremel fix, Ive tried grinding down the back side of the drag link,but it gets to thin to use before interference is solved
See post #8050.
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Old 09-26-2015, 02:54 AM   #8673
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With that ^ being known, if I was still using the stock steel drag link, I personally would just dremel a clearance relief gap out of it with the small sanding drum and be done with it. It's not like your going to loose much dexterity in doing so with the stock steel one.
On the flip side, raising the link .060 with a washer would help better align the link from the servo to the bellcrank, but it would also raise the leverage point possibly wearing a bit more on parts over time.
Either fix is most likely negligible in part wear either way you swing it, just thinking out loud.
Luckily I have a few mm of gap at full turn with the short VR drag link, so no need for correction with that part installed.
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:24 PM   #8674
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i told him to get the vr short link i run also,works 10 x better. kinda weak so many trucks have this issue with stock drag link,ton of guys cant fig out why they have no steering from interference of a few random parts in the front end
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Old 09-29-2015, 06:58 PM   #8675
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i told him to get the vr short link i run also,works 10 x better. kinda weak so many trucks have this issue with stock drag link,ton of guys cant fig out why they have no steering from interference of a few random parts in the front end
Moving the link up slightly works with the stock long drag link too if it's hitting.
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:11 AM   #8676
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I haven't yet seen a candid review of the -3mm chassis. Is there a noticeable difference with turn rates specifically on tight, indoor tracks over the stock chassis?
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Old 10-03-2015, 12:36 AM   #8677
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I haven't yet seen a candid review of the -3mm chassis. Is there a noticeable difference with turn rates specifically on tight, indoor tracks over the stock chassis?
True^ I have only heard a couple pros mention it helping with responsiveness.
I don't know for certain, but I imagine it's one of those things that isn't going to benefit a lot of people in a way they can tell some sort of instant difference.
I figure it is one of those upgrades that is so minute in difference that only those who have their trucks already optimal in every other conceivable way will even notice at all. I would also think that by reducing your over all wheel base length wise there is also a trade off. For a track that is tight and technical with high grip, I could see it helping. But for the majority of other conditions and especially outdoor tracks, I feel like it could possibly work against you.
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Old 10-05-2015, 06:16 AM   #8678
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True^ I have only heard a couple pros mention it helping with responsiveness.
I don't know for certain, but I imagine it's one of those things that isn't going to benefit a lot of people in a way they can tell some sort of instant difference.
I figure it is one of those upgrades that is so minute in difference that only those who have their trucks already optimal in every other conceivable way will even notice at all. I would also think that by reducing your over all wheel base length wise there is also a trade off. For a track that is tight and technical with high grip, I could see it helping. But for the majority of other conditions and especially outdoor tracks, I feel like it could possibly work against you.
You hit the nail on the head first try. I feel the same way. Just another tuning option.
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Old 10-07-2015, 03:37 PM   #8679
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Default Dogbone Center Drive line - SCTE

Howdy Gents, Just wanted to give you a heads up on my 2nd to last hop up I worked on prior to handing over this bad boy. We made a dogbone center drive line for the scte much as the 8 3.0 series got. This allows for less bind and a more 4wd feeling on the track. It also makes the entire drive line lighter by utilizing the front and rear outdrives in the center now. This also means less wear and tear on your center differential.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332015
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:04 PM   #8680
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Howdy Gents, Just wanted to give you a heads up on my 2nd to last hop up I worked on prior to handing over this bad boy. We made a dogbone center drive line for the scte much as the 8 3.0 series got. This allows for less bind and a more 4wd feeling on the track. It also makes the entire drive line lighter by utilizing the front and rear outdrives in the center now. This also means less wear and tear on your center differential.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332015
Can you elaborate of what you mean by "more 4wd feeling" ? I guess I'd like to know what the difference noticed would be from what we are getting now and an explanation as to why.
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Old 10-07-2015, 04:09 PM   #8681
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Howdy Gents, Just wanted to give you a heads up on my 2nd to last hop up I worked on prior to handing over this bad boy. We made a dogbone center drive line for the scte much as the 8 3.0 series got. This allows for less bind and a more 4wd feeling on the track. It also makes the entire drive line lighter by utilizing the front and rear outdrives in the center now. This also means less wear and tear on your center differential.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332015
These work REALLY good.
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Old 10-07-2015, 10:07 PM   #8682
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Will the new dogbone shafts work on the original SCTE, or only the 2.0? I'd imagine they only need to be swapped front to rear?
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Old 10-08-2015, 11:44 AM   #8683
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Default Design review?

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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
Howdy Gents, Just wanted to give you a heads up on my 2nd to last hop up I worked on prior to handing over this bad boy. We made a dogbone center drive line for the scte much as the 8 3.0 series got. This allows for less bind and a more 4wd feeling on the track. It also makes the entire drive line lighter by utilizing the front and rear outdrives in the center now. This also means less wear and tear on your center differential.

http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...odID=TLR332015
This is really a good way to go for the front shaft where it works at an angle. I can see a slight weight savings. I have to point out that this design is very dated going back to a bone and drive cup on both ends. It does use less parts which I like. Those CV pins where always too small for the stress. The CVD pins on all axles and the center shafts are exactly what I expected so see improved on a 3.0 truck. Had to go there I'll be testing these for sure. Best idea I have seen on the front shaft.

I don't think we are going to feel it. Might hear that bone jumping around in the cups after it gets wore in. The MIP Puck shafts saved a ton of wt, but just not the ticket for high horsepower and longevity. Still have the same problem we have with any front center drive shaft. The side loads take a toll on the center diff case and front outdrive. The outdrive wobble syndrome

Most serious racers run the Tekno center drive shafts. They just last forever with little maintenance. After 2 years I only replaced front drive pin for the center diff side. Pressed in a new Mugen pin for another year of service. Tekno got it right on metals they use to make these. That is why they last. A rubber boot keeps good grease in the CVD side and dirt out. Funny to think in years for any RC part lasting that long. Material quality and design keeps getting better.

I like the fact that you guys keep updating parts on this truck. Few things left, the other CVD pins, shocks like the 22 design, diff washers, steel balls in all links and a factory ball bearing ackerman like Vision Racing makes. Don't want to put any of the aftermarket guys out of biz, but with the years this platform has under it's belt the small stuff is still overlooked IMHO
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Old 10-08-2015, 12:01 PM   #8684
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Don't quite understand the 4wd feel either.

I can see where the bind would be eliminated with dual dog bone. The old style would cause the dog bone pin to wear the outdrive always in the same spot, and I can see how the pin could get stuck under some conditions.

I disagree about the MIP driveline. If you don't let your pucks wear out, you will never wear out the pin or the outdrive. Supper light, and awesome design. I do use the Kingheadz standoffs, so wobble is not an issue for me.

Nice to see TLR working on things.
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Old 10-08-2015, 01:16 PM   #8685
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Don't quite understand the 4wd feel either.

I can see where the bind would be eliminated with dual dog bone. The old style would cause the dog bone pin to wear the outdrive always in the same spot, and I can see how the pin could get stuck under some conditions.

I disagree about the MIP driveline. If you don't let your pucks wear out, you will never wear out the pin or the outdrive. Supper light, and awesome design. I do use the Kingheadz standoffs, so wobble is not an issue for me.

Nice to see TLR working on things.
The Puck issue: They are great when new. If racing with stock class motors I would be forced to buy them over and over to run up front. They do good first 30 to 50 lipos with cleaning every run and replacing the front Pucks every 15 to 25 lipos. After that its all down hill on dusty outdoor tracks. If you only race indoor clean tracks they might be fine. I ran 400 laps one practice night on such a track and they held up great. Truck was ready for race day with nothing to do.

Our track and many others I race on are true dirt tracks with loose dirt everywhere, even when wet between rounds. Its dry and dusty most of the time after the first heat. Fine silt gets into everything. The dirt gets embedded in the plastic Pucks after a day of practice and starts wearing away at the anodizing on the outdrive cups quickly. They change to sandpaper. Once the top anodizing is gone the outdrive causes the wear to speed up twice or even 4 times as fast. I ran the Pucks over 100 lipos. Changed the plastic Pucks out more and more frequently as the anodizing wore off the outdrive cups and I even rotated the center diff cups front to rear to get all I could from them. I found myself skipping practice to avoid maintenance and replacing the Pucks during a race event that was only 2 days long. I try to race 3 classes at big events and it's too much extra maintenance, so I can't justify them for myself. If you only race a clean indoor track, they might do well for you.

Im all about less maintenance and more track time even though I do more upkeep on my rigs than just about anyone I know. I run 10 lipos of practice and race many weeks in loose dry dirt before I even think about checking the Tekno shafts. I'm more concerned with clean bearings and CVDs at the wheel. I clean the Tekno CV joint and lube it maybe 4 times a year. Thats the kind of service I want from my parts. Same for my Diffs that last up to 200 lipos between service.

I just ordered the new TLR drive shafts and cups. I think they will last a long time and require almost 0 maintenance. Shooting for 150 lipos on front and 250 on the rear. Maybe a pin change if they need it will be all they need to get there. One thing is for sure. I can spend more time working on my setup and practice laps not worrying or thinking about Pucks
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