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Old 07-01-2015, 03:06 PM   #8416
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Make sure the inner bearing is seated on the pinion shaft. Mine was a little hard to seat all the way and the gears were too tight.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:03 PM   #8417
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Yes its all brand new. Brand new kit going together, just received it a week ago. I have checked and rechecked assembly procedures and its as instructed. The pinion seems to have very little run out or horizontal play, maybe on half mm. When assembled it just seems as if you can feel the pinion and ring gear step on each tooth. Maybe this is normal Im just not sure. No shims were installed other than exactly what the instructions say. I used grease to check for whitness marks in the case and found just one tiny area which I dremeled away.
The latest gears have worked pretty good but I would run them in and check it again. May just be some high spots that will break in quickly as you run in the gears.
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:47 PM   #8418
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Had the same issue with the rear diff catching. But after a run or two it went away and I haven't had any issues
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:59 PM   #8419
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Originally Posted by rcgod View Post
Make sure the inner bearing is seated on the pinion shaft. Mine was a little hard to seat all the way and the gears were too tight.
I bet this is the issue. Mine did the same thing. Take something and tap the inner bearing further into the case. Should fix it.
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:22 PM   #8420
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Does anyone know is it worth to upgrade SCTE 1.0 MIP version to SCTE 2.0? thx
I would say yes. My brother had the MIP 1.0 truck and switched to the 2.0 and likes it a lot better.
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Old 07-03-2015, 12:50 PM   #8421
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Why not just keep the MIP truck and buy a new 2.0? The advantage of one over the other will be finding your ideal tune with each. Unless your a pro I doubt you'll find a significant flaw in either.
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Old 07-03-2015, 03:12 PM   #8422
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Could you explain it more specific? thx!

there is just more adjustability with the 2.0 camber link and shock position. and I believe battery position. He was just able to drive it harder and got faster and more laps with it.
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:40 PM   #8423
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I've been running the Dunford OCRC setup on my truck except the 15 deg front spindles and the +5mm rear hex's and my diff oil is 5-7-5. And maybe I'm just not driving it fast enough but it just feels kinda tight in the turns if I went back to the lighter front sway bar and changed my front diff oil to 7k do you think that would "loosen" my truck up some ?? I don't get to race that often and race on a tight budget so I don't always have the money to run out and buy all the new parts and only have a set of Deja-Vu's and a set of Typos both in clay compound. any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance

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Old 07-05-2015, 07:49 PM   #8424
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do you mean turn in?

I ran on a new fresh track that was low to absolute slick surface. I had to change the shock positions to near vertical and remove both sway bars to gain grip.

never had to do that before, but I could not get the truck to turn.

there are some hairpin 180's that have jumps so I need the acceleration as well.

Lost my front sway bar this weekend LOL.
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:04 PM   #8425
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I guess turning period lol seems like the other scte's that I run with has a tighter turning radius and rotate better thru the corners than my truck does.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:18 AM   #8426
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I guess turning period lol seems like the other scte's that I run with has a tighter turning radius and rotate better thru the corners than my truck does.
First thing I would suggest is talk to the guys that have the scte's that turn better than yours and see what they're doing different.

All the stuff I'm about to list is for an off throttle/low speed situation, if you're looking on throttle steering this stuff will be counter productive to backwards.

If you're looking for more rotation out of the rear you can try lighter rear diff fluid or soften the rear suspension (tip shocks in, softer springs, stuff like that), shortening the rear wheelbase will also add rotation.

If you're looking for more steering out of the front a lighter front sway bar (or no sway bar) will help, also softer front spring or more tipped in front shocks, shorter front camberlink.

Edit: Also make sure you're getting full steering throw https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mw4rkTeWbQ

Last edited by anr211; 07-06-2015 at 05:20 AM. Reason: additional info
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Old 07-06-2015, 09:54 AM   #8427
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirtraycer View Post
I've been running the Dunford OCRC setup on my truck except the 15 deg front spindles and the +5mm rear hex's and my diff oil is 5-7-5. And maybe I'm just not driving it fast enough but it just feels kinda tight in the turns if I went back to the lighter front sway bar and changed my front diff oil to 7k do you think that would "loosen" my truck up some ?? I don't get to race that often and race on a tight budget so I don't always have the money to run out and buy all the new parts and only have a set of Deja-Vu's and a set of Typos both in clay compound. any advice would be appreciated thanks in advance

Cory
If you want more turn-in and rotation, then I'd go with a thinner front bar and maybe thinner oil front and rear. I run 5-5-3 usually at OCRC. Ryan's truck is easier to drive, and mine is a little more aggressive.
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:26 AM   #8428
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Thanks for the info. im going to make the adjustments and see what I get lol
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Old 07-06-2015, 11:59 AM   #8429
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I am going to wait to see what his truck does before I change mine...LOL let lil brother be the tester..........
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Old 07-06-2015, 12:16 PM   #8430
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Are the setups you TLR guys are using today including the new -3mm chassis?
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