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Old 06-08-2015, 09:32 PM   #8341
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Does anyone make a better wheel hex for this vehicle?
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Old 06-08-2015, 11:23 PM   #8342
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Originally Posted by TommyJoe View Post
I've got the 4250kv. It's a light, strong motor that works well on smaller indoor tracks. It would probably work fine on a big track if it's geared properly and your truck isn't too heavy. If you buy it be sure to lock-tite the little screws that hold the can to the end bell. And don't over-tighten the motor mount screws because the can is made of some really soft aluminum that strips easily.
Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 06-09-2015, 07:29 AM   #8343
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
Does anyone make a better wheel hex for this vehicle?
Is there something wrong with the TLR alum hexes? I've not encountered any issues...
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:36 AM   #8344
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Me personally I just don't like them because they are just slid on and are held in place by friction, and come off at times when I pull the tires for cleaning which has resaulted in a lost drive pin. I prefer the ones with set screws. Other than that I have never had any other issues with them. Just my 2 cents
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:46 AM   #8345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Me personally I just don't like them because they are just slid on and are held in place by friction, and come off at times when I pull the tires for cleaning which has resaulted in a lost drive pin. I prefer the ones with set screws. Other than that I have never had any other issues with them. Just my 2 cents


which hexes are you talking about ?

Tip if you dont have the clamping hexes... a little loctite on the pin and Hex will help prevent it from coming off when you dont want it to.
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Old 06-09-2015, 10:59 AM   #8346
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braxamus View Post
Me personally I just don't like them because they are just slid on and are held in place by friction, and come off at times when I pull the tires for cleaning which has resaulted in a lost drive pin. I prefer the ones with set screws. Other than that I have never had any other issues with them. Just my 2 cents
The kit comes with clamping hexes. If you started with the RTR, then the part number for the standard clamping hexes are LOSB3493. We also offer wider ones for the rear if you want them, that part number is TLR332014.
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Old 06-09-2015, 11:39 AM   #8347
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I got mine used, and the push on ones is what was on it as well as a NIP set. So I am not sure if this was off of the 1.0 and they just used what they had or what. The clamping ones are on my list of things. after I rebuild my diff's.
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Old 06-09-2015, 09:34 PM   #8348
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Is there something wrong with the TLR alum hexes? I've not encountered any issues...
Nevermind. Long story.

Can you guys recommend a good wheel? TLR7011?

Last edited by Tommygun1; 06-09-2015 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 06-10-2015, 08:38 AM   #8349
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Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
Nevermind. Long story.

Can you guys recommend a good wheel? TLR7011?
Yes, TLR7011 works very well. We also have TLR7004 (Yellow) and TLR7012 (white) for some color options (I use yellow myself).

LOSB7018 also works very well. Some of the guys on the team run these as they are a touch stiffer.
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Old 06-10-2015, 10:58 AM   #8350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommygun1 View Post
Nevermind. Long story.

Can you guys recommend a good wheel? TLR7011?
TLR wheels are great and you can add in disks for performance and stiffen up the wheel and add some color or flair. There are many wheel offerings from DE racing for colors and styles. They have a Speedline + wheel that has grooves in wheel to grab the foam so the foam does not move on the wheel as much.

http://www.deracing.net/
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Old 06-11-2015, 07:26 PM   #8351
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Any comments on the Reedy Sonic Mach2 4300kv ?
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Old 06-11-2015, 08:18 PM   #8352
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I can't comment on the mach 2 but a mate of mine has a sonic 10.5 in his Durango 4x4 sct and it flies. Very low temps too. I have an old 10.5 out of my tc that I'm thinking of throwing in.
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Old 06-11-2015, 09:55 PM   #8353
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I love the Mach2 in my SCT but the Tekin Pro4 4000 in my SCTE is a beast!
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Old 06-13-2015, 11:25 AM   #8354
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Hello all! So I've driven my truck enough to realize that I've worn down the center diff bearings, the front and rear driveshafts, and the camber links (or the balls inside). Does anyone have recommendations for suppliers on bearings? Should I replace the balls only or get new plastic ends with balls? Are there other camber links that I can run that work out better in regards to strength and durability? What should I replace the universals front and rear with, factory replacements?
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Old 06-13-2015, 03:03 PM   #8355
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Originally Posted by claytrackstar View Post
Hello all! So I've driven my truck enough to realize that I've worn down the center diff bearings, the front and rear driveshafts, and the camber links (or the balls inside). Does anyone have recommendations for suppliers on bearings? Should I replace the balls only or get new plastic ends with balls? Are there other camber links that I can run that work out better in regards to strength and durability? What should I replace the universals front and rear with, factory replacements?
It takes some time, but search within this thread and you will find too many options to list. My thoughts, Any new rubber sealed bearing kit, Tekno center drive shafts, Factory stock drive shafts are good, and the stock ball end links with steel 6.8 balls which require 3mm bolts but last 2 or 3 years of racing.
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