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Old 05-01-2015, 06:03 PM
  #8191  
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If anyone who has tried the -3 chassis and would like to get rid of their stock one, please shoot me a PM...
Thanks
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Old 05-01-2015, 11:44 PM
  #8192  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
I was referring to the caster block. You must be talking about the knuckle. I haven't tried those I was leery about the bearing fit.
integy carrier and knuckle both work great together on the scte, couple micro shims to tighten it up,I also used teflon tape on bearing to tighten it up on fitment,they are about the same as the tlr rear billets,they need teflon on bearings also if you want it slop free and tight
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:17 AM
  #8193  
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Guys need to order some drive axle pins but don't to buy the clamping hex when I just need the pins:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOSB3493-Los...item4ad86cd406
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Old 05-03-2015, 07:19 PM
  #8194  
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I did some research a couple weeks ago because I had the same question. I haven't purchased them or tested them yet but I believe they will work based off the description. To double check, if you have digital calibers you should measure the length of your pins just to be sure.

http://avidrc.com/product/5/accessor...cessories.html




Originally Posted by Stanfsu
Guys need to order some drive axle pins but don't to buy the clamping hex when I just need the pins:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/LOSB3493-Los...item4ad86cd406
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Old 05-03-2015, 08:20 PM
  #8195  
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I believe all of the pins are the same size in the kit..
axle pins, diff pins, hex pins....

correct?
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Old 05-03-2015, 09:57 PM
  #8196  
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Hey guys, I'm new here, I just got an SCTE 2.0 because I visited NorCal hobbies while on a business trip/interview (actually will be relocating to San Jose pretty soon) and I really want to get into racing. Bashing has been tons of fun, but trying to constantly turn a quicker lap is like a drug for me.

Anyway, I'll probably have more questions in the future, but I've got two for right now.

1) bought a j concepts chassis protector sheet and cut it out - one little session later, it started peeling off.. Do most people here constantly buy new chassis protectors or d a lot of people just say to hell with having a clean chassis?

2) what size is the nut that is used on a lot of suspension linkages and stuff.. I'm guessing it's standard, but most of my StuffIt metric and I want to order the right wrench.


Thanks again guys and looking forward to participating.
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Old 05-04-2015, 04:45 AM
  #8197  
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Originally Posted by rcgod
Bump steer is adjusted by flipping the rod ends since they are offset, so on the setup sheet you will see bump up or bump down. That means the offset on the rod end ball is up or down. You can also add washers under the outer ball end.

The set screws in the sway bar mounts are for removing play when running different size bars. They should be just tight enough to remove play, but not hinder sway bar movement.

Shock length is measured eye to eye.

15 deg refers to the angle of the upright in relation to the arm. The 15 deg uprights are more laid back than stock.

rcgod
I wanted to ask about the bump steer setting. You are sayin the direction of the spacer on the ball dertermines bump steer up or down?
Or is it the location of the ball itself that determines this?

On the latest set-up it has it labeled as> Bump Steer: Inside-down, Outer-up.
I read this as the location of the balls. Inside-down means the ball is down (spacer would be up). Outer-up means the ball is up (spacer would be down).

Us old guys get easily confused.... but still fast
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:11 AM
  #8198  
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Originally Posted by lowspark
rcgod
I wanted to ask about the bump steer setting. You are sayin the direction of the spacer on the ball dertermines bump steer up or down?
Or is it the location of the ball itself that determines this?

On the latest set-up it has it labeled as> Bump Steer: Inside-down, Outer-up.
I read this as the location of the balls. Inside-down means the ball is down (spacer would be up). Outer-up means the ball is up (spacer would be down).

Us old guys get easily confused.... but still fast
You got it right. ☺
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:45 AM
  #8199  
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Bending my front and rear chassis braces (torque rods) upon the 'occasional' dart. Sometimes the plastic part gets tweaked, sometimes the threaded part bends. It really has to be a hit for it to bend, but it happens.

Anyone know if MIP braces fit the 2.0 chassis? Or, are those specifically for the MIP chassis?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/mip-pro...p13249/p266427

Thanks.
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Old 05-04-2015, 09:47 AM
  #8200  
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Originally Posted by rcus3r
Bending my front and rear chassis braces (torque rods) upon the 'occasional' dart. Sometimes the plastic part gets tweaked, sometimes the threaded part bends. It really has to be a hit for it to bend, but it happens.

Anyone know if MIP braces fit the 2.0 chassis? Or, are those specifically for the MIP chassis?

http://www.amain.com/rc-cars/mip-pro...p13249/p266427

Thanks.
Yes those fit both the 2.0 and the -3mm chassis.
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:02 AM
  #8201  
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Are the new fluids and oils with all the new TLR kits certified oils and fluids? Or should I throw them out and order new fluids and oils? Thanks
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Old 05-04-2015, 01:17 PM
  #8202  
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Originally Posted by Whitey_Wangster
Are the new fluids and oils with all the new TLR kits certified oils and fluids? Or should I throw them out and order new fluids and oils? Thanks
Diff oils are typically pretty good. I would not sue the shock oils if you are tuning for racing.
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Old 05-04-2015, 02:44 PM
  #8203  
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Thanks Casper...
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:15 PM
  #8204  
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Default wire run under driveshaft?

Hey all, does anyone have a clean looking way to run wires under the driveshaft in the front of the truck? I'm worried about chafing the receiver wires that run across to the ESC. Thanks!
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Old 05-04-2015, 11:22 PM
  #8205  
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Default CVD Pins Axle Pins

2x10mm pins for CVDs and hex.

McMaster Carr # 91595A026
50 pins for $7.36

Enough for a few guys to share a bag.
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