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Old 03-12-2015, 07:54 PM   #7861
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One thing I have an issue with is a push on corner entry, it comes out of the corners nice and settles down after the jumps and goes nice down the straights. I am running a modified setup from the manual, waiting on the new stuff from TLR to switch the sway bars and such.
go with a lighter front spring, check your caster angle, and shock angle. should mid up top and all the way out on bottom. also what weight is in the front diff?
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Old 03-12-2015, 07:56 PM   #7862
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Dangit just freakin rebuilt the truck top to bottom and now I got to tear it right back down for the shorter chassis Thanks TLR for the new option chassis, think it will help on the smaller tracks a bunch.
My truck corners just fine with the longer chassis, on the bigger outdoor tracks I run i'm thinking this might not work as good.
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Old 03-12-2015, 10:24 PM   #7863
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Unless you can find one at a hobby shop or used they're not available anymore. Bill passed away last year and no one else took over.
I have a ver 1 and know where I can get another.what were your results with it? Im not sure how much is diff on it,or what the flex diff is with a short rear brace,but it sure does make this sc handle much better
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:05 AM   #7864
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I have a ver 1 and know where I can get another.what were your results with it? Im not sure how much is diff on it,or what the flex diff is with a short rear brace,but it sure does make this sc handle much better
I really liked the v1 chassis. At the time it came out the only other option was the orininal tuned flex chassis, and going from the stock scte 1.0 chassis to the bce was a huge improvement. Durability, handling, much improved. The new trucks come with a god chassis stock so not much need to go aftermarket unless you want carbon fiber.
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:46 AM   #7865
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in his post i quoted he said he was racing with you while you were running the bce v2 in the 2.0 kit and your lap times were lower with it? are you still using it? who is making a CF 2.0 chassis I thought the carbon bump chassis was just 1.0
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:20 AM   #7866
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in his post i quoted he said he was racing with you while you were running the bce v2 in the 2.0 kit and your lap times were lower with it? are you still using it? who is making a CF 2.0 chassis I thought the carbon bump chassis was just 1.0
I was running the prototype v2 chassis on high bite sugar and liked the way it felt better than the stock 2.0 chassis. It was stiffer and more predictable in the corners.

Extreme racing makes the carbon 2.0 chassis.

http://www.amain.com/xtreme-racing-l...is-kit/p291859
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Old 03-13-2015, 04:04 AM   #7867
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My truck corners just fine with the longer chassis, on the bigger outdoor tracks I run i'm thinking this might not work as good.
Yea for larger outdoor stuff the stock chassis should be better I would think, indoors small/medium tight track the -3 chassis might be the ticket.
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Old 03-13-2015, 08:29 AM   #7868
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Looking at that carbon fiber chassis, with the bolt on front alum piece it will set the entire front diff. and suspension up higher. I wonder how much effect that would have on handling and tuning, if any.
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:59 AM   #7869
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So what would be the difference between just shortening the rear hubs with the spacers and running the -3mm chassis ??
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:13 PM   #7870
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So what would be the difference between just shortening the rear hubs with the spacers and running the -3mm chassis ??
Shortening the hubs just moves the wheels forward and the weight balance back. Also creates more angle on the driveshafts both creating more forward bite. Will have a different effect than shortening the chassis and keeping same weight bias.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:32 PM   #7871
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Id like to try out the shorter chassis but im thinking youll need new shorter driveshafts.

A buddy of mine runs the Xtreme Racing CF chassis with good success. He runs outdoor mostly.
Hes probably a good half pound to pound lighter which gives him more corner speed and I believe more overall traction with the flex.
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Old 03-13-2015, 02:56 PM   #7872
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Id like to try out the shorter chassis but im thinking youll need new shorter driveshafts.

A buddy of mine runs the Xtreme Racing CF chassis with good success. He runs outdoor mostly.
Hes probably a good half pound to pound lighter which gives him more corner speed and I believe more overall traction with the flex.
Stock driveshafts work on the shorter chassis.
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Old 03-13-2015, 02:59 PM   #7873
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Looking at that carbon fiber chassis, with the bolt on front alum piece it will set the entire front diff. and suspension up higher. I wonder how much effect that would have on handling and tuning, if any.
The nose piece sits at the same level as the rest of the chassis. Hard to tell by looking at the pic.
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Old 03-15-2015, 03:47 PM   #7874
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Just going through my truck today cleaning bearings and installing TLR aluminum hubs on the front of my second truck. All new dog bones/axles and pins as well.

I noticed some binding in the front CV dog bones when steering is turned all the way to left or right. It seems like the angle exceeds the stock CV joints capability. Do the TLR aluminum front hubs make using the Tekno axles and bones mandatory?

I'm also using the ball bearing Ackerman/drag link from www.visionracing.net and that tightens up the steering a lot. Are there any aftermarket servo savers better than the stock unit?
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Old 03-16-2015, 07:59 AM   #7875
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I've tried the alum steering rack and it's no better than stock.crank the stock unit fully tight run the vision Ackerman your as good as it gets. Use tiny washer under the right side steering rack to keep up down movement out. Use 2.0 eight buggy steering links and steel balls. tekno cvd kit is mandatory for smooth full-lock steering the whole front end feels like money. I've just grinded the carriers and hubs with a dremel and side of front diff case and the front of a arms so wheels turn to within couple hundredths of touching the back side of hubs at full lock
I've had the 1.0 and bce setups work great like this but with the 2.0 it always Feels like more left steering than needed and not enough right with a constant push entering higher speed hard rights. I must be missing something.

I've tried some odd asymmetrical things to correct it. this track has a lot of high open rights and just a few hair pin left's.
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