Casper

iTrader: (34)

Try the latest Dunford setup found here.

http://casper-rc.com/TLR_Ten-SCTE.htm

Should work great with the BCE H1 chassis as that is very similar to the 2.0 chassis.

MIP MATT

Hey guys MIP Pro4mance SCTE 2.0 with MIP upgrades did great at last weeks Quebec classic and two weeks before at the Top Gun shootout. Ended up taking TQ and win at both events.

One on outdoor the other on indoor

Here are the setups

Top Gun Shootout SDRC raceway Smooth - Low/Medium Bite
https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_18744018510

Quebec Classic Canada 1/8 outdoor track loose
https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_19197266687

Also the MIP Pro8 Prototype is coming along great as well with a 2nd behind Cav at the Top Gun shootout and was up battling with Savoya for third at the Quebec classic. The Pro8 uses the SCTE 2.0 or 1.0 as a platform for the conversion to make a competitive 1/8 scale.

Here are the setups for the pro8 as well

Top Gun https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_18743965604

Classic https://app.box.com/files/0/f/140526.../f_19196330085

Also here are the MIP upgrades I was using:
http://miponline.com/store/Losi_TLR_...pUp_Parts.html

Thanks for all the support guys the SCTE products have been moving well. The MIP pro4mance package has been a favorite as it comes with the solid center braces, steering links, bypass1 pistons, solid servo posts and towers with MIP and TLR holes. Also for the owners of a 2.0 chassis the center braces have been one of the favorites http://miponline.com/store/mip13249.html as well as light weight diff kits for all SCTE's that feature aluminum cross pins, machined stand offs to keep the diff precise and diff washers that really never wear. Also with this diff kit the oil stays much cleaner as the standard aluminum stand offs and washers do not wear like the OEM ones that contaminate the oil. http://miponline.com/store/mip13246.html

MIP MATT

Hey Guys I posted this on my facebook yesterday, not sure if you guys have come up with this but heres a little tip to save on bearings and improve efficiency.

"I don't know about all you scte owners out there but the four main bearings I go through are the center drive bearings. Without fail they get gritty every two race weekends. Both my Avid and Schelle bearings are never happy. Though the bearings do stand to be a bit bigger I found a simple and easy way to get some more life out of them. Check out part # 10127 http://miponline.com/store/mip10127.html. They are a crush spacer for a traxxas slash rear hub but are the perfect width and diameter for the scte center drive pinion bearings."

.AJ.

Double post

.AJ.

Im putting together a spares package for my truck, so far I've ordered,

Spur gear
F&R bumpers
Centre cvd coupling kit
Body mounts
Rod ends
Shock plastics

These were the only parts I broke on my 1.0 truck, is there anything else recommended for me to carry?

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Crush spacers are good between bearings in wheel hubs, given the pressure the wheel nut can force on the inner bearing race (IE: it can squeeze and apply pressure on the bearings in a way that it's not designed to support, which causes premature failure). The crush tube on those applications passes that force to the axle which is a solid item that can bear that weight, versus the bearing races.

For the driveshaft bearings, I'm not sure what is getting crushed? Unless somehow they're really squeezing the rear gearbox pinion and the rear shaft's outdrive. Doesn't seem like you can get that much pressure on it. And if you use the crush tube, it would push the energy as follows:

Pinion>bearing>tube>bearing>rear diff outdrive>rear shaft>center diff outdrive. Since the shaft floats in the center diff outdrive, nothing can really be crushed. Also since the crush tube floats in between the bearings (it's not pressed into the gearbox) it doesn't provide lateral support.

Sounds cool, but I don't know if it's really doing anything?

goehm

iTrader: (45)

I'd pick up a pack of hinge pin inserts as well.

I like the King Headz boots for the shaft couplings at each gearbox (grease in, dirt out -- really reduces wear):
http://www.ebay.com/itm/King-Headz-S...-/161099941728

MIP MATT

Its a tad taller than the plastic space in between the bearings in the center. Understand your speculation but have done multiple tests with it and the bearings are lasting much longer than previous. Give it a try, wont hurt

MIP MATT

Front and rear tekno shafts would be good to have on hand and the MIP center shafts or Tekno shafts are a good option as well. Don't have coupler issues.

Also shock shafts would be recommend in case you ever bend one. And not sure if you go through diffs but keep a couple diff kits on hand or if your wearing through those look into these http://miponline.com/store/mip13246.html

Bearings are also nice to have extras of. I know both Avid and Schelle have good kits you can buy they are around 20 bucks for the entire truck.

goehm

iTrader: (45)

Ha - true, thanks. $4 never hurt no one.

.AJ.

MIP pucks? Yes or No?

potatobed409

iTrader: (1)

I think the pucks are the best drive shafts for the SCTE, but also the most maintenance. I would not recommend them because of the pucks you will go thru. I hope someone makes a aftermarket chassis with the center diff turned to make the drive shafts as straight as possible. Kind of like the King Headz one. (Maybe on the new Pro8 chassis)

Mclogo

Not for high bite astro

I had bought a 2nd SCTE 2.0 kit for replacement parts, because it takes a while to get parts if something does break.
But so far I had only one drive shaft failure on my first few packs on carpet.
I bought the Tekno drive shafts but never used them so far.

If you roll the truck a lot, you'll net some body mount posts and maybe soon a new body but otherwise it is very durable.

MIP MATT

The advantages of them is that they are fully rebuildable as well as super light weight because it is 80% aluminum (aluminum bones, aluminum cups for diff, and steel drive outputs) which equates to more get up and go. I run the King heads center diff mount so it does keep them from slopping around. The stockers of course do not support the output as much which could cause undue wear and stress to the pucks. The rear bone on pucks lasts probably 5 times that of the front because it is straight on and since the front bone is cocked every time it takes a revolution it will wear considerably more than the rear. Adding grease to the pucks will help them last alot longer as the grease helps it slide and take alot of the wear out http://miponline.com/store/mip5203.html . I run them on my pro4 and pro8 religiously and keep the same rear pucks on for long time and replace the fronts after each race weekend (20 packs). They of course could go up to 30-40 runs but like to just maintenance them before each big event they are around $1.50 when you replace 2 of the pucks.

Yes most definitely more mainantance than a stock steel to steel but also efficency goes down when you run them for a long time. Trade one for the other. Depends on application for sure, what each racers needs are.

Have not tried them on Astro myself, I have run on super high bite slick tire conditions and blue groove situations but I'm Sure Astro is even more bite. If they failed in the first few packs that shouldn't have occurred. What was the failure if I may ask? And not a problem sending you out some replacement parts since the product wasn't very old. Just PM me or send an email with pictures to [email protected] and tell them MIP Matt sent you over.

louperez4

iTrader: (6)

wondering who makes screws for this truck now sense tlr
does not make the titanium screws Kit*!