10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
02-16-2014, 07:57 PM
#6181
I had the same thing. 1-2mm seems a bit excessive. I had about .5mm and I shimmed it up using two .2mm x 5mm x 7mm shims on each wheel. I put the shims between the bearing and the pin.
I also replaced the ackerman arm and bushings, that seemed to tighten up most of the slop in the steering. The ball joints can wear also. The 1.0 had terrible aluminum ball joints were the 2.0 had hardened balls and they last a very long time.
I also replaced the ackerman arm and bushings, that seemed to tighten up most of the slop in the steering. The ball joints can wear also. The 1.0 had terrible aluminum ball joints were the 2.0 had hardened balls and they last a very long time.
02-17-2014, 10:26 AM
#6182
Here are 2 clips from the A-Main from the first race with my SCTE 2.0.
I was actually faster with the fast laps than with my old car, but not as consistent... the car was not so easy to drive/suspension was to soft... and of course I'm not a good enough driver yet
btw. Motor was a 4.5turn Thunder Power with a 13t pinion
I was actually faster with the fast laps than with my old car, but not as consistent... the car was not so easy to drive/suspension was to soft... and of course I'm not a good enough driver yet
| + YouTube Video | |
| + YouTube Video | |
btw. Motor was a 4.5turn Thunder Power with a 13t pinion
02-17-2014, 04:16 PM
#6183
Tech Initiate
dunfords 5-22-13 setup
Hi all
With this set up it calls for the Rear hex spaced out .5 is this the correct shim? /Losi-5mm-6mm-Metric-Shim-Set
I saw awhile back tlr came out with new rear .5 hexes are these used instead if these shims?
Also is the bump steer washer in it 2mm or .2?
Thanks
Ken
With this set up it calls for the Rear hex spaced out .5 is this the correct shim? /Losi-5mm-6mm-Metric-Shim-Set
I saw awhile back tlr came out with new rear .5 hexes are these used instead if these shims?
Also is the bump steer washer in it 2mm or .2?
Thanks
Ken
Last edited by PYRO689; 02-17-2014 at 04:36 PM. Reason: Question revised
02-17-2014, 04:50 PM
#6185
Tech Initiate
Delete
Last edited by PYRO689; 02-17-2014 at 06:49 PM. Reason: Found the answer to my question
02-18-2014, 06:47 AM
#6189
Built two with no real issues.
There is a build tips download on the first page that helps a lot.
The diffs arent a problem if you are experienced.
we counted the parts as we built and i think it was about 725 pieces total counting nuts bolts set screws body and everything.
I spread it out over a few weeks as i was teaching a total noob but I'm sure it could be done in an evening but a LONG evening mind you.
Pre order the shock caps. You CAN use the kit ones but you need to crank on them with pliers to get them on..
There is a build tips download on the first page that helps a lot.
The diffs arent a problem if you are experienced.
we counted the parts as we built and i think it was about 725 pieces total counting nuts bolts set screws body and everything.
I spread it out over a few weeks as i was teaching a total noob but I'm sure it could be done in an evening but a LONG evening mind you.
Pre order the shock caps. You CAN use the kit ones but you need to crank on them with pliers to get them on..
Are the caps not tapped/threaded? What is so hard about getting them on? Also, does anyone have a part number for threaded ones / "right" ones?
02-18-2014, 09:13 AM
#6190
He's talking about the plastic lower shock cap.s The originals were molded a little too small or something. My kit ones were real tight. They work...they are just harder to get on than they should be. I got the fixed replacements from Horizon customer support. I would think by now they have fixed ones in the kits. But maybe not.
