seabass17

iTrader: (40)

Rpm rear bumper and mount, body mounts, front arms, center shafts from tekno.
These trucks really do not break parts but these are the things I have replaced on my truck. Cracked one arm which is why I replaced.

silveraider14

iTrader: (6)

anybody ever had a solid red light on a r10 pro 2-3s?

I am running a orion 550 vst 4.0 motor.

already asked on the r10 pro fourm and didn't get much help. just seeing if anyone else was having this problem?

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

Welcome! Hah hah, you should try reading the SCTE 1.0 thread.

Anyway, I have had my SCTE 1.0 for 2 years now and don't "bash" per se, but then again I don't race (so am not really trying to take the low risk & low damage route to make it to the end). In any case all my friends are so amazed at the durability of the SCTE that they have now all got them as well.

I have not truly broken any part except the body. The rest was wear and tear. The original chassis from the 1.0 bent, but you have a 2.0. ALthought I have replaced one front A-arm due to bending after a full speed crash into a light pole, I don't think it's worth it to have one on hand. Better to buy one in the UK if you really need it at that time.

Perhaps consider the kingsheads cvd pin keeper which will prevent the pin in the coupler from eventually working its way through the plastic collar. This is less necessary now as there is a set screw built into the coupler in the new design, but sometimes it still manages to work loose. If you get the Tekno centre driveshafts then don't worry about this piece as they have a metal ring collar in their design.

You might also want to consider some serrated locking nuts for the wheels (any brand you like). Sometimes the originals on the 1.0 would come loose. It did for me only on one axle, but since using serrated nuts no problems.

Also you could consider the LOSA6285 left hand threaded screws for the front right and rear left shock mounts. Sometimes, due to the action of the suspension, standard thread screws will work loose. These ones go the other way so they don't go loose.

CookieFlow

iTrader: (5)

Thank you very much guys
That is great news, less money to spend!!

What about these parts :
King Headz Motor Mount w/Dual Bearing
[KHZ-SCTE-036]
King Headz Center Differential Front Upright w/Dual Bearing
[KHZ-SCTE-035]
FTW R/C Carbon Fiber Ackerman Set (2)
[FTW00014]
MIP TEN-SCTE Mod1 Spur Gear (41T)
[MIP12199]

They have a good amount of nice comments on Amain, but maybe it's more upgrades for the 1.0?

Thanks !!

Edit : another noob question, I was looking for something like we can see here at 2:22 (It probably has a name, sorry ):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1iK2hPHx7Q

to put on top on the side guards when bashing, but I can't find any on Amain.
Are those kind of stuff hand made, doesn't exist for the SCTE 2.0, or I just suck a searching?

ctuinstra

A set of the dog bones, the diff out drives, spur gear, all the wheel bearings, diff rebuild kits (seal, fluid).

eddomak

iTrader: (8)

I guess the answer to a lot of your questions comes down to whether you are racing or not.

The Kingshead centre mounts may have helped address outdrive wobble (particularly with the 1.0 when there was a steeper angle between the centre diff to front diff). Some people liked it because it gave them more reliability. Probably most people have been fine without it.

The CF ackerman is more bling than a requirement.

The MIP Spur gear gives you more very-fine tuning options, but non-racers probably find that a simple change in pinion was enough. The spur gear was like half way between 1 tooth change in the pinions.

Those lexan pieces are commonly called side pods, some use it to stop debris flying into the chassis, others used it to prevent airflow and adding to the parachute effect. I don't know if there are any made for the SCTE 2.0. You might be able to find some Outerwears to protect from debris.

sanny632

iTrader: (17)

I got the king headz diff mounts LOVE THEM

RiceP

iTrader: (71)

The king heads is great it will save your drives and bearings a for sure up grade. Would not recommend the mip spur it wears to fast IMO just buy stock one as spare. And the ankerman if u have carbon on the 2.0. If you are building up a supply spend money on arms, spur, shock plastics, maybe body mounts, then get a few high discharge high mah lipos and have fun

drepus

if your throttle trim is advanced slightly the red light comes on solid and you should hear the motor barely trying to start spinning

CookieFlow

iTrader: (5)

Thanks so much for all the tips and detailed answers guys
There is just so much information when you start a new hobby like RC, it's hard to keep track of everything
Does the outerwear protection prevent even a little bit of dust and allow a good enough amount of Air flow for the electronics? It's seems super expensive for a piece a fabric
Also sad there are no discount coupons for the moment on Amain

Edit :

I was thinking of getting a second body, do you guys have any suggestions?
I was looking at :
JConcepts Illuzion "Ford Raptor SVT X-Flow" Short Course Truck Body (Clear) (One Size Fits Most)
[JCI0205]
JConcepts Illuzion "Hi Flow" Short Course Truck Body (Clear) (One Size Fits Most)
[JCI0222]
Pro-Line Flo-Tek Ford F-150 Raptor SVT Body (Clear)
[PRO3366-00]
Pro-Line Flo-Tek Body (Clear) (Slash, Slash 4x4, SC10)
[PRO3355-00]

For the last one, they say it's not compatible with the SCTE, is that correct?


Thanks again!!

BSCFlash

iTrader: (4)

The last one works just fine, it is my body of choice, and what I have used with great success for many months.

silveraider14

iTrader: (6)

ok I will give it a try.

thanks

jpk4ud

iTrader: (5)

Ok I have an scte and love it. What would be the best reasons to upgrade to the 2.0? I am thinking of getting a second truck and I want to know if there is that much difference between the two chassis.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The 2.0 has better balance for increased corner speed and better traction on corner exit. All the things you love about the 1.0 and more.

bpalmer

iTrader: (1)

jpk ... i'll turn down the horsepower and you can try mine...