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Old 07-11-2013, 07:43 AM   #4501
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Follow the manual. Ball down on bellcrank (washer up), Ball up on spindle (washer down) plus 2mm under washer.
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:33 AM   #4502
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Originally Posted by Sivaaji View Post
Thanks Edomark/Casper for that.

Casper is the MIP Spur gear OK to use? It was the only 39T available on ebay
The MIP spur is what I use to alter that.

Looks like Casper got to the other questions Love that guy!
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Old 07-11-2013, 08:39 AM   #4503
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Originally Posted by MonsterSummit View Post
Just for clarification, you are running the inside ball down, but how are you running the outer ball at the wheel. Up or down with the additional shim?
The outer ball always has to be run ball up so this is how we left it but placed an additional 2mm metal washer under it. We used the ones from the 22 line and just held them with pliers as we drove the screw through it, lol.

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Originally Posted by Sivaaji View Post
Ryan, Thanks for all the tips. I noticed you are running the same ESC/motor combo as I have coming so please give me your latest settings for your RX8 that runs the Pro4HD 4300? Thanks
I am running my motor pretty hard but it is known I apparently don't pull as hard as most as I can run an identical car as others and come off a little cooler, so just putting that out there...lol. Always check temps during your test runs.

I am geared 16/39 with the pro4 hd 4300.
timing - 35
finish - type in 17500
start - of the options, choose the one in the 3000 range

current limit - 75 (I played with this a lot, more than 75 with this motor produces wheel spin and lower lap times)

brakes - 100 in esc, 37 on radio

minimum throttle - 1

I think those are the important ones...
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Old 07-11-2013, 09:48 AM   #4504
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Ryan,

Will all your latest changes also work on the 1.0?
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #4505
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I was just going to ask the same question. I've got the APE tray so the battery is mounted fairly far back but it's not the same as the 2.0. I also run on a fairly tight, relatively smooth, partially blue grooved track...the groove is narrow and there aren't that many jumps. That new setup is nothing like my own but I'm struggling a bit more on this track than I am on the indoor clay track I was running on over the winter. I was running the thin sway bar in the front, had the softest spring in front, had the ride height lowered in front, the narrow Ackerman arm....about the only thing I could have done to get more steering would have been to drop an anchor off the side of the car that I wanted to turn to.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:46 AM   #4506
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Originally Posted by RavensNightFury View Post
can any one tell me whats the part number and name for the body that come with the tlr scte 2.0
It comes two wasy. One precut with all the vents the other without the vents cutout (stock)

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...rm=performance

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At least i am not the only one who did not like the 4 hole over the 2 hole. I too run at lot of outdoor blown out tracks. If i want more rear traction do i want to go lighter rear oul like 32.5 and 27.5?
Lighter rear oil will allow weight transfer to the rear a little faster. I would only change 2.5wt at a time. The 2 hole pistons are pretty sensitive to oil changes I found.

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Originally Posted by mxgregg View Post
Ryan,

Will all your latest changes also work on the 1.0?
The bump steer stuff will be great on the 1.0 as well for sure. The weight balance of the 1.0 is a bit different so the rest of the setup may not translat fully. Worth a try though and see how you like it.
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Old 07-11-2013, 10:47 AM   #4507
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Ryan,
I see casper is running those same ESC numbers for timing with the 4600. is that correct that I could run those same numbers with my 4600?

What difference will I see in performance with running the timing at 35 and changing the start and end curve to those RPM numbers?

Thanks for all your work.
Regarding the PM from a while ago, I'm waiting for my wife to schedule her next trip
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:29 AM   #4508
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
Ryan,
I see casper is running those same ESC numbers for timing with the 4600. is that correct that I could run those same numbers with my 4600?

What difference will I see in performance with running the timing at 35 and changing the start and end curve to those RPM numbers?

Thanks for all your work.
Regarding the PM from a while ago, I'm waiting for my wife to schedule her next trip
DISCLAIMER!!!!!
Using advance timing with 4 pole motors is harder on your batteries. AMP draw has gone up and the batteries are getting warmer. Make sure you have good batteries if you attempt to add timing to your 4 pole motors.

We are getting better top end out of the motors with additonal timing. We are ramping it with a pretty low start so you don't feel any kick in and have it ramp fairly quick so you get some benefit on short shoots as well. Gen 2 Data logging is showing these things are pulling over 30,000 RPM so you see full advance timing for most of the top end of the motor range.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:34 AM   #4509
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Originally Posted by hacker07 View Post
The outer ball always has to be run ball up so this is how we left it but placed an additional 2mm metal washer under it. We used the ones from the 22 line and just held them with pliers as we drove the screw through it, lol.
Any reason it has to be a metal washer?
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:48 AM   #4510
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Originally Posted by Voloc View Post
Any reason it has to be a metal washer?
This just ensures the setting is held. You have the small sholder of the ball spacer pushing into plastic. In reality it would not be much different then it already is on the spindle but we like metal spacers when used over plastic as they don't dent or change size over time.
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:54 AM   #4511
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Thanks for the info and quick response!
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Old 07-11-2013, 11:58 AM   #4512
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Casper,
What do you guys consider good packs? I have 2 SMC 7200 70C packs and a Trakpower 6800 70C. Are these ok?
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:18 PM   #4513
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
Casper,
What do you guys consider good packs? I have 2 SMC 7200 70C packs and a Trakpower 6800 70C. Are these ok?
Yeah. We run Venom 5800mah 70C. I would get high "C" rated packs for sure and just be aware this may shorten battery life.
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:28 PM   #4514
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Cool thanks guys. I'm getting ready to go through the truck. Been running it pretty hard lately. AMS 4.0 was great. Need to check the CV's at the wheels. They look to be sloppy. The barrel is sloppy inside the drive shaft and the pin is sloppy inside the axle. Ok, last question for today:

Do you have any tricks on rebuilding these parts? Do you just replace all of those components or do you find that there is something better that last longer?

Thanks again!
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Old 07-11-2013, 12:45 PM   #4515
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
Cool thanks guys. I'm getting ready to go through the truck. Been running it pretty hard lately. AMS 4.0 was great. Need to check the CV's at the wheels. They look to be sloppy. The barrel is sloppy inside the drive shaft and the pin is sloppy inside the axle. Ok, last question for today:

Do you have any tricks on rebuilding these parts? Do you just replace all of those components or do you find that there is something better that last longer?

Thanks again!
axles have two sets of holes in them so you can just rotate the parts. You can buy just the barrel and cross pin separate. Bones you basically are just replacing those unless you get a pin extraction tool and can find the correct size replacement pins.
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