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Old 06-07-2013, 01:05 PM   #4096
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Is anyone really shimming the ring and pinion? I put mine together like the manual shows and there are no shims in the front or back cases. The only shim, I believe is in the center diff on the motor side I think. I guess the only variable in these is if the center drive shaft is not pushed all the way on the pinion with the pinion being pushed all the way up to the bearing on the inside of the case.
Maybe Hacker or casper can let us know how they shim there's. I'm going to guess it's by the book.
I never shimmed my rear diff on the 1.0 but I was running plastic inserts. I too am now running the alum inserts like Ryan and those have a slight bit more play and am running the included shims with those. It is a bit of a case by case basis and like Ryan said some cases will expand slightly over time and you may need to shim the diff as parts wear in.
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Old 06-07-2013, 03:52 PM   #4097
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With a lot of people testing different setups, has anyone tried stiffer rear springs? Just curious, if anyone has, how did it effect the handling of the truck?
The last 2 weeks I have been running the "dunford standard" setup with the "green'' springs in the rear. The main reason for this is, @ my indoor carpet track there is a small "kicker double" jump on the track." It kicks up the rear of the truck". Many guys would just crank down on the collars to fix this issue. However, I did not like the handling of the truck with the raised rearend. Stiffer springs fixed the issue; and maintained ride hight....It hauls a$$!
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Old 06-07-2013, 04:13 PM   #4098
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Originally Posted by Purdue Engineer View Post
Is anyone really shimming the ring and pinion? I put mine together like the manual shows and there are no shims in the front or back cases. The only shim, I believe is in the center diff on the motor side I think. I guess the only variable in these is if the center drive shaft is not pushed all the way on the pinion with the pinion being pushed all the way up to the bearing on the inside of the case.
Maybe Hacker or casper can let us know how they shim there's. I'm going to guess it's by the book.
The 1.0 I have has never had to be re shimmed since it was new and I have let my 5yr old drive it pretty hard some days while learning track etiquette. Original r/p still on it and it spins very free now.

I just finished the front on the 2.0 and I thought it was strange that there was not a shim used in the front too.
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:06 PM   #4099
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Good deal! I have seen lots internals of brushless motors and drivetrain problems because of NO load conditions in my 25+ years of R/C racin..anyways,I was just makin a friendly suggestion..it all good for me...
Thanks for the reply

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What can cause that to happen?
Dun Know..
1st time it happened ,ran the 1.0 for 2 yrs and neva,I did just switch the alum insrts from the 1.0,never shimmed it in that truck

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Poor shimming of the diff, pinion gear backing out from the ring gear on the diff,
Prolly lack of shims it sounds like to me.Help me out here guys who know about this stuff.What do I look for? and where do the shims go? Thanks...
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Old 06-07-2013, 08:27 PM   #4100
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Metric hardware please.....
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:29 PM   #4101
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Well got 20 to 25 packs threw the truck and have bearing failure already
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Old 06-07-2013, 09:40 PM   #4102
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Got the 2.0 out Sat nite for the 2nd time and really starting to get a feel for it!!
Unfortunately right before the second qual while revving the motor prior to setting her on the track a clicking sound emerged from the rear diff but I ran anyway. It seemed to stay together :lol :By the main it was loud enough that every one at the track knew something was wrong. I was gonna run her anyway since I was sitting at the TQ spot.
I made to the end took the win but kinda had to limp it around.Finaly dug into the rear diff to see the problem and the ring gear was missing about 4 teeth!!She finished both races and put me on the podium
Cost of new ring and pinion $21.00 finishing first with a battered 2.0 =Priceless.
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Originally Posted by blade329 View Post
What can cause that to happen?
I don't agree with step D-12. I prefer to install the drive shafts on the pinion to make sure there is no pinion walk on the ring gear depth.
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Old 06-07-2013, 11:48 PM   #4103
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I don't agree with step D-12. I prefer to install the drive shafts on the pinion to make sure there is no pinion walk on the ring gear depth.
I agree first time I built front diff i followed instructions and the diff would bind just alittle. Took it apart and held the pinion in with finger while I installed drive shaft, then finished diff build. No binding and felt smooth.
I think some of the ring gear problems are because it pushes pinion in on ring gear and causes a a bad gear mesh in the diff when the drive shaft is installed last. Not everytime and not to everyone.
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Old 06-08-2013, 12:38 PM   #4104
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Is there a way to purchase just the plastic ends of the Torque Rods? I have seen quite a few broken and want to get a couple as spares without having to buy the whole Torque Rod. Has anyone found an end that is stronger or even another brace that might be more durable?

Thanks,
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Old 06-08-2013, 01:11 PM   #4105
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Is there a way to purchase just the plastic ends of the Torque Rods? I have seen quite a few broken and want to get a couple as spares without having to buy the whole Torque Rod. Has anyone found an end that is stronger or even another brace that might be more durable?

Thanks,
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http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA6044

Make sure you thread the set screw all the way into the rod end FIRST and then thread the end into the tube. This way the screw fills the hole in the rod end and makes the assembly stronger!
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:43 PM   #4106
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I don't agree with step D-12. I prefer to install the drive shafts on the pinion to make sure there is no pinion walk on the ring gear depth.
Not the issue here at all, been building these diffs for over two yrs now but thanks for the suggestion . Shims?????How do I know if I need them? I have never done shimming before???? Thanks...
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:50 PM   #4107
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Grab both outdrives in the rear gear box in see if it has side to side play in the gear box, install a shim on the driver side to make the diff be closer to the pinion gear.
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Old 06-08-2013, 02:54 PM   #4108
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Originally Posted by BDRMBULLY View Post
Grab both outdrives in the rear gear box in see if it has side to side play in the gear box, install a shim on the driver side to make the diff be closer to the pinion gear.
Thanx, that makes sense!!
Headed to the track will def look into this!! Thanx again Bully!!!!
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:13 PM   #4109
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The losi cars like to have just a tick or play between the ring and pinion. Hold the outdrives and and rock the center driveline back and forth. There should be a tiny amount of movement. When the gears wear a little sometimes you need to add a shim to the ring gear side to tighten up the mesh. Shim accordingly.
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Old 06-08-2013, 03:59 PM   #4110
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Just purchased a Scte 2.0 kit. Does it come with the rear alum gear box bearing inserts, cant find it in any of the bags.
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