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Old 04-17-2013, 08:46 AM   #3361
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Originally Posted by eddomak View Post
Heh heh, pre-emptive Dremelling - I like it! That way you can use the hex, but if it all fails you still have the slot without scoring the casing itself. Nice one!
I think cutting a slot thru the hex is just asking for it to fail.

I used a power screwdriver with a screw to pre thread the holes, go straight in in one constant drive. using a hand held driver is a lot of starting and stopping and angle changes which doesnt help.
did six diff cups with only one screw and didnt have a problem.
The only issue with getting a tap is its really small and if you break it off it might be a problem to get out... Murphys law states that it WILL break off inside where u cant get at it. again if you do I would chuck it in a drill, NOT the hand tap handle.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:48 AM   #3362
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I tapped mine part way and used a regular M2.5 socket head (not flat head) screw to pre-thread the diff cases the rest of the way. I was concerned that if I tapped to full depth, there would not be enough friction on the screws to keep them from backing out.
NOT an issue, after tapping the screws are still very tight going in...
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:21 AM   #3363
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did any1 try MIP's 41 tooth spur gear?
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Old 04-17-2013, 12:53 PM   #3364
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did any1 try MIP's 41 tooth spur gear?
nope, im assuming it would increase your acceleration, but decrease your top speed. Assuming you keep the pinion the same.
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Old 04-17-2013, 01:37 PM   #3365
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what i meant is - will it fot to the chasi? i recall a fotting problem with kingheadz chasi
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:24 PM   #3366
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Originally Posted by xxfile View Post
I think cutting a slot thru the hex is just asking for it to fail.

I used a power screwdriver with a screw to pre thread the holes, go straight in in one constant drive. using a hand held driver is a lot of starting and stopping and angle changes which doesnt help.
did six diff cups with only one screw and didnt have a problem.
The only issue with getting a tap is its really small and if you break it off it might be a problem to get out... Murphys law states that it WILL break off inside where u cant get at it. again if you do I would chuck it in a drill, NOT the hand tap handle.
If I was tapping metal holes that deep I might be worried about a broken tap, but in plastic I've done holes much deeper than these diff cases without problems.

I burned myself on a screw backing it out with a power driver from the friction generated heat. Even screwing it in manually, I could feel heat build up.

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NOT an issue, after tapping the screws are still very tight going in...
I'll do it for the next ones I replace.
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Old 04-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #3367
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Originally Posted by ta_man View Post
If I was tapping metal holes that deep I might be worried about a broken tap, but in plastic I've done holes much deeper than these diff cases without problems.

I burned myself on a screw backing it out with a power driver from the friction generated heat. Even screwing it in manually, I could feel heat build up.


I'll do it for the next ones I replace.
You can sacrifice a screw and cut a slot down the side to turn it into a "tapping" screw as well.
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:16 PM   #3368
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Here is a way to tell the difference from the shock bottoms in the kit to the replacement ones...

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Old 04-17-2013, 06:20 PM   #3369
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How are you guys running your wire from Esc to Reciever Im not really comfortable with couple ways I've ran mine worried of catching driveline
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:30 PM   #3370
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How are you guys running your wire from Esc to Reciever Im not really comfortable with couple ways I've ran mine worried of catching driveline
Just ran it over from the esc and under the servo like Hacker/Ryan said and then back out
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Old 04-17-2013, 06:54 PM   #3371
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Ok....im probaly 10 packs through my truck....ive ran half on indoor clay...half on outdoor dusty/loose....every time its been ran on the dusty surface it has been blown of with compressed air.....i ve tried to get every nook and cranny....however....the front steering now creaks like an old lady....both directions slow or fast....is it the captured ends?? I've never heard an rc truck make this noise this quick....
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:43 PM   #3372
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Ok....im probaly 10 packs through my truck....ive ran half on indoor clay...half on outdoor dusty/loose....every time its been ran on the dusty surface it has been blown of with compressed air.....i ve tried to get every nook and cranny....however....the front steering now creaks like an old lady....both directions slow or fast....is it the captured ends?? I've never heard an rc truck make this noise this quick....
Shoot some bearing oil or WD40 in the pivot joints and balls. Otherwise, yes it creaks.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:14 PM   #3373
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Just shortening wires to finish the castle 3800 race pro
I have heard that some motors wires can't be cut does anyone know if this
Is true for this castle motor?
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:18 PM   #3374
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Just shortening wires to finish the castle 3800 race pro
I have heard that some motors wires can't be cut does anyone know if this
Is true for this castle motor?
You can cut the wires.
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:26 PM   #3375
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You can cut the wires.
But know that they must all be the same length. Very close to the same length.
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