10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
04-08-2013, 09:57 AM
#3061
Tech Apprentice
Is anyone not using the droop screws in the chassis? I noticed I could get another ~1-2mm travel without them, I just don't know if taking them out is even necessary if the shocks at full length even cause the arms to hit the chassis.
04-08-2013, 10:21 AM
#3063
Tech Apprentice
04-08-2013, 11:50 AM
#3066
Ok so its a quiet day on the forum...
Well we have completed bag G so we are done except for servo mounting and Motor /esc.
Thanks to this forum, and losi's build tips (probably from this forum) the whole build went smoothly.
I was walking a complete noob thru this and we took our time only working on it sunday afternoons and the occasional evening.
We had 1 each out of 12 diffs screws that went wrong, and the xpected issue with the shock caps but we were prepared and go thru it all...
Now the snow is ALMOST gone and its supposed to rain a lot the next two days which should take care of the rest of it.
They are however calling for 15-20 CM/ 4-8" of snow thurs/fri. FML.
We still have to mask and paint glue tires etc The Noob is pumped to get out.
We have had him indoor racing BRP sc18's on carpet all winter which was his first experience with RC cars.
Thanks Losi for building a great upgrade to the first truck. added up the Noobs Bill hes $1550.00 with hitec servo and castle MMP SCT system and faast Receiver for his Futaba, proline calibers and 4 batteries.
Well we have completed bag G so we are done except for servo mounting and Motor /esc.
Thanks to this forum, and losi's build tips (probably from this forum) the whole build went smoothly.
I was walking a complete noob thru this and we took our time only working on it sunday afternoons and the occasional evening.
We had 1 each out of 12 diffs screws that went wrong, and the xpected issue with the shock caps but we were prepared and go thru it all...
Now the snow is ALMOST gone and its supposed to rain a lot the next two days which should take care of the rest of it.
They are however calling for 15-20 CM/ 4-8" of snow thurs/fri. FML.
We still have to mask and paint glue tires etc The Noob is pumped to get out.
We have had him indoor racing BRP sc18's on carpet all winter which was his first experience with RC cars.
Thanks Losi for building a great upgrade to the first truck. added up the Noobs Bill hes $1550.00 with hitec servo and castle MMP SCT system and faast Receiver for his Futaba, proline calibers and 4 batteries.
04-08-2013, 10:05 PM
#3067
Not bad at all, looking forward to weighing mine later this week. I'm also using titanium turnbuckles and the KH aluminum center diff mounts. I suspect I'll be a little heavier than yours.
Is anyone not using the droop screws in the chassis? I noticed I could get another ~1-2mm travel without them, I just don't know if taking them out is even necessary if the shocks at full length even cause the arms to hit the chassis.
Is anyone not using the droop screws in the chassis? I noticed I could get another ~1-2mm travel without them, I just don't know if taking them out is even necessary if the shocks at full length even cause the arms to hit the chassis.
maybe a bit too much LOL on this 2.0 I will run the same!!I think on a real blue groove track you will want them,other wise may not......
Casper or Ryan,are you guys running the plastic rear hubs or going with the alum for the 2.0. I kinda liked the plastic better on the 1.0 ,just trying to get my new truck ((
)) set up. Also seems as tho the bottom chassis c`snks are a bit shallow..? I think I can fix this myself at work ,but was wondering if this has been an issue..? Thanks ...
Last edited by BmainStar; 04-08-2013 at 10:20 PM.
04-08-2013, 10:27 PM
#3068
On the 1.0 I ran full droop with shock bottoms unscrewed
maybe a bit too much LOL on this 2.0 I will run the same!!I think on a real blue groove track you will want them,other wise may not......
Casper or Ryan,are you guys running the plastic rear hubs or going with the alum for the 2.0. I kinda liked the plastic better on the 1.0 ,just trying to get my new truck (()) set up. Also seems as tho the bottom chassis c`snks are a bit shallow..? I think I can fix this myself at work ,but was wondering if this has been an issue..? Thanks ...
maybe a bit too much LOL on this 2.0 I will run the same!!I think on a real blue groove track you will want them,other wise may not......
Casper or Ryan,are you guys running the plastic rear hubs or going with the alum for the 2.0. I kinda liked the plastic better on the 1.0 ,just trying to get my new truck ((
)) set up. Also seems as tho the bottom chassis c`snks are a bit shallow..? I think I can fix this myself at work ,but was wondering if this has been an issue..? Thanks ...
04-09-2013, 04:06 AM
#3070
Not bad at all, looking forward to weighing mine later this week. I'm also using titanium turnbuckles and the KH aluminum center diff mounts. I suspect I'll be a little heavier than yours.
Is anyone not using the droop screws in the chassis? I noticed I could get another ~1-2mm travel without them, I just don't know if taking them out is even necessary if the shocks at full length even cause the arms to hit the chassis.
Is anyone not using the droop screws in the chassis? I noticed I could get another ~1-2mm travel without them, I just don't know if taking them out is even necessary if the shocks at full length even cause the arms to hit the chassis.
04-09-2013, 04:09 AM
#3071
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
We are both running alum rear hubs because we can. One of those things you do when representing a company is running the hop up parts. We have found the stock plastic rear hubs hold up just fine but can become brittle in cold weather. Otherwise they work great. C'snks were a little off but not to the point of not shipping the cars. I know Ryan is aware of it and looking into it.
It's also not the shock caps I don't think, cause old or new they don't fit flush, at least from what I've experienced.
None of these are issues that actually harm the truck though so I'm not worried. I was lucky enough to get the Ti kit with my 2nd kit and they fit perfectly flush with the chasis.
04-09-2013, 06:50 AM
#3072
Tech Apprentice
04-09-2013, 07:03 AM
#3073
Tech Apprentice
We are both running alum rear hubs because we can. One of those things you do when representing a company is running the hop up parts. We have found the stock plastic rear hubs hold up just fine but can become brittle in cold weather. Otherwise they work great. C'snks were a little off but not to the point of not shipping the cars. I know Ryan is aware of it and looking into it.
I ask because it looks like my aluminum carriers are .134 and the pins are .137.5 (including the newly replaced pins from HH CS). There really isn't a good way to mount the carrier to my mill so I'm considering either sanding down the pin in my lathe with an abrasive cloth or possibly using a reamer to bore out the hole to .138. Haven't quite decided yet, but I wanted to get a larger sample of that hole size.Ryan, the aluminum carriers are 6061 or 7075? Do you by chance know what was spec'd for the diameter in that carrier hole?
Thanks again!
04-09-2013, 07:31 AM
#3074
We are both running alum rear hubs because we can. One of those things you do when representing a company is running the hop up parts. We have found the stock plastic rear hubs hold up just fine but can become brittle in cold weather. Otherwise they work great. C'snks were a little off but not to the point of not shipping the cars. I know Ryan is aware of it and looking into it.
04-09-2013, 07:53 AM
#3075
It's not the chasis because the Ti screw fit perfect??
It's also not the shock caps I don't think, cause old or new they don't fit flush, at least from what I've experienced.
None of these are issues that actually harm the truck though so I'm not worried. I was lucky enough to get the Ti kit with my 2nd kit and they fit perfectly flush with the chasis.
It's also not the shock caps I don't think, cause old or new they don't fit flush, at least from what I've experienced.
None of these are issues that actually harm the truck though so I'm not worried. I was lucky enough to get the Ti kit with my 2nd kit and they fit perfectly flush with the chasis.
Casper & Ryan, I don't suppose you would mind taking a caliper to your rear hinge pin to aluminum carrier and measuring both the the diameter of the pin and the inside diameter of the carrier? I ask because it looks like my aluminum carriers are .134 and the pins are .137.5 (including the newly replaced pins from HH CS). There really isn't a good way to mount the carrier to my mill so I'm considering either sanding down the pin in my lathe with an abrasive cloth or possibly using a reamer to bore out the hole to .138. Haven't quite decided yet, but I wanted to get a larger sample of that hole size.
Ryan, the aluminum carriers are 6061 or 7075? Do you by chance know what was spec'd for the diameter in that carrier hole?
Thanks again!
I ask because it looks like my aluminum carriers are .134 and the pins are .137.5 (including the newly replaced pins from HH CS). There really isn't a good way to mount the carrier to my mill so I'm considering either sanding down the pin in my lathe with an abrasive cloth or possibly using a reamer to bore out the hole to .138. Haven't quite decided yet, but I wanted to get a larger sample of that hole size.Ryan, the aluminum carriers are 6061 or 7075? Do you by chance know what was spec'd for the diameter in that carrier hole?
Thanks again!