10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
03-15-2013, 06:57 PM
#2011
Got mine all built. Off to the track tomorrow for some fun. Cant wait.
03-15-2013, 06:58 PM
#2012
Imo there's nothing wrong with the Stock Mount, Use a proper Torquable screw and your fine.
No Rx box, No real big deal, Make a lexan shield.
I also Prefer SAE to Metric Screw's, IMO they are more durable as far as the hexes are concerned also the Coarser threads bit into plastic better than Fine Threaded Metric screws.
03-15-2013, 07:02 PM
#2014
Sorry to point this out, but looking at your pic, it looks as though your left and right mudguards are swapped. This was mentioned in the build tips that I posted. Was your center diff hard to screw down? Does it hit the sideguard? One should have a raised portion which goes alongside the battery.
Nothing bad about the diff screwing down...why do you ask?
Only issue was the bottom shock caps, wheel nuts, screws in chassis not actually countersunk, and the dimensions for the links not right
The screws not really an issue other than the diffs and the small ones for body post but i swapped the diffs out with the HPI Z449 and went prefect, the reciever box most people eliminated as this is more a race truck so it was done to conserve weight but its not like you cant add one behind the servo if its that big of a deal, and never had an issue with the motor screws
03-15-2013, 07:31 PM
#2016
so buy a $10 case and put it on...keep in mind that the other one on the 1.0 was built in with the servo holder so it was alot to most people and like everyone said, those who race, its a race of grams/oz that can make a difference when your removing it from serveral spots on the truck. Guys went to the HD outdrives for the weight reduction and there wasnt much to be gained there but overall it all adds up
03-15-2013, 08:01 PM
#2018
I got to drive one of these last night - Friend got his yesterday and built just in time for racing. The timing was turned off during practice so no comparison times to my 1, which was a shame, but box setup and it felt great.
I don't know what others think, but it felt like a buggy to drive. The SCTE 1 is very point and shoot and the rear end rotates around the corners, the front end does all the work and the rear end is just along for the ride, whereas with the 2 it felt like a proper car rather than a truck and actually drove around the corners. I much preferred it and even kit setup I reckon I equaled my top lap times. Trying to keep my wallet in my pocket but it's hard!
I don't know what others think, but it felt like a buggy to drive. The SCTE 1 is very point and shoot and the rear end rotates around the corners, the front end does all the work and the rear end is just along for the ride, whereas with the 2 it felt like a proper car rather than a truck and actually drove around the corners. I much preferred it and even kit setup I reckon I equaled my top lap times. Trying to keep my wallet in my pocket but it's hard!
03-15-2013, 08:25 PM
#2019
03-15-2013, 09:03 PM
#2020
Also go spend 26 bucks on the MIP tools(2 ea) that are needed for the shock cap bleeders and the diff screws and You will never(going slow and takin yer time)
strip a screw..
03-15-2013, 10:39 PM
#2021
I finally got my kit yesterday and I was able to support my local shop, Yeah! Lol ! Ok I put together the 1st differential and it is butter smooth. Just like B main said buy Mip wrenches if you don’t already have them ( I personally wouldn’t attempt to put together any kit with the included hardware, I’m still using my MIP wrenches from 1996).
I did take the advice of others on here and pre-thread the diff cases before I put the diff together just because it only took me 1 minute longer to do it this way. I think the theory is when the diff is empty (aka no fluid you can hold it vertical and horizontally to make sure your diff screw is going in perfect vs. when its full of fluid and you have to keep it upright. I’ll keep you posted on the center and rear diff to follow but I don’t expect any problems. This kit is 1st class and as far as I’m concerned LOSI has stepped up their kit game big time. It’s so funny how the instructions have changed since 1996 when I bought my 1st RC10B2. The kits have gone from a paragraph on each segment to pictures, LMAO
What an awesome kit, I can’t wait to drive it. B main and I are going to go tear up IERC or lake pegs, whatever comes 1st BRAP Brap
B main I'm running same electronics as you (RX8/XE4000) what pinion should I start off with 1st? The XE4000 I just picked up so its new to me…
I was waiting for the PRO4HD but at 200 bucks OMG
I did take the advice of others on here and pre-thread the diff cases before I put the diff together just because it only took me 1 minute longer to do it this way. I think the theory is when the diff is empty (aka no fluid you can hold it vertical and horizontally to make sure your diff screw is going in perfect vs. when its full of fluid and you have to keep it upright. I’ll keep you posted on the center and rear diff to follow but I don’t expect any problems. This kit is 1st class and as far as I’m concerned LOSI has stepped up their kit game big time. It’s so funny how the instructions have changed since 1996 when I bought my 1st RC10B2. The kits have gone from a paragraph on each segment to pictures, LMAO
What an awesome kit, I can’t wait to drive it. B main and I are going to go tear up IERC or lake pegs, whatever comes 1st BRAP Brap
B main I'm running same electronics as you (RX8/XE4000) what pinion should I start off with 1st? The XE4000 I just picked up so its new to me…
I was waiting for the PRO4HD but at 200 bucks OMG
03-15-2013, 10:56 PM
#2023
so buy a $10 case and put it on...keep in mind that the other one on the 1.0 was built in with the servo holder so it was alot to most people and like everyone said, those who race, its a race of grams/oz that can make a difference when your removing it from serveral spots on the truck. Guys went to the HD outdrives for the weight reduction and there wasnt much to be gained there but overall it all adds up
03-15-2013, 11:56 PM
#2025
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Trucks going together nicely. I've collected a few of my own tips for people getting ready to build theirs.
General comments about the manual - The pictures of the screws and hardware are not always 1:1 scale like you would typically find in other build manuals. Kinda of a bummer but easily solved with a caliper.
Step A-1/1.5 - The setscrew for the steering linkage is not 7/8" long as indicated. Its a bit shorter.
Step A-2 - The screw LOSA6256 4-40x1/2" is a bit short going thru the steering linkage and doesn't quite reach into the plastic insert on the LOSA6306 nylock nut. I just used a bit of loctite.
Step A-3 - I added loctite to both the grub screws for the droop and the flatheads holding the steering posts. Maybe its just my nitro background, but in general, any type of metal to metal screw contact should have some sort of thread fastener. I can just envision that the grub screws on the chassis backing off and changing droop throughout a race.
Step B-3 - As posted in previous threads, the M2.6 x 10 screws are poor quality and need to be installed with a 1/16" high quality allen driver. Doesn't make sense why a metric screw would use imperial tools, but I guess that got missed in QA. I replaced the cheap steel M2.6 x 10 screws with M2.6 x 10 titanium fasteners from Integy/3 Racing and haven't looked back. The manual also calls out TLR332001 as the part number for the screw but that is the diff casing w/screws. It would be nice to have the correct part number for just the screws.
Overall, the kit is great and I commend Ryan and the rest of TLR for getting this out in a timely manner even with the few quirks in the manual.
General comments about the manual - The pictures of the screws and hardware are not always 1:1 scale like you would typically find in other build manuals. Kinda of a bummer but easily solved with a caliper.
Step A-1/1.5 - The setscrew for the steering linkage is not 7/8" long as indicated. Its a bit shorter.
Step A-2 - The screw LOSA6256 4-40x1/2" is a bit short going thru the steering linkage and doesn't quite reach into the plastic insert on the LOSA6306 nylock nut. I just used a bit of loctite.
Step A-3 - I added loctite to both the grub screws for the droop and the flatheads holding the steering posts. Maybe its just my nitro background, but in general, any type of metal to metal screw contact should have some sort of thread fastener. I can just envision that the grub screws on the chassis backing off and changing droop throughout a race.
Step B-3 - As posted in previous threads, the M2.6 x 10 screws are poor quality and need to be installed with a 1/16" high quality allen driver. Doesn't make sense why a metric screw would use imperial tools, but I guess that got missed in QA. I replaced the cheap steel M2.6 x 10 screws with M2.6 x 10 titanium fasteners from Integy/3 Racing and haven't looked back. The manual also calls out TLR332001 as the part number for the screw but that is the diff casing w/screws. It would be nice to have the correct part number for just the screws.
Overall, the kit is great and I commend Ryan and the rest of TLR for getting this out in a timely manner even with the few quirks in the manual.