2wd front tires. Any differences?
01-13-2013, 04:19 PM
#6
Track 1: Softer tackier clay, high traction.
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs don't work worth a dam
Track 2: More compact, harder clay, medium traction
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs work just about as good
It really depends on THAT track's specific clay. I always recommend running the same compound and tread front and back.
01-13-2013, 04:43 PM
#8
I understand compound is a huge factor. Just wanted to focus on pattern. At sdrc, 80-90% run super soft.
But compound IS a factor. If on clay, run the clay compound. But, it's not JUST clay that determines what works. Here is a funny example between the two tracks I run at, up here.
Track 1: Softer tackier clay, high traction.
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs don't work worth a dam
Track 2: More compact, harder clay, medium traction
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs work just about as good
It really depends on THAT track's specific clay. I always recommend running the same compound and tread front and back.
Track 1: Softer tackier clay, high traction.
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs don't work worth a dam
Track 2: More compact, harder clay, medium traction
Clay compound Gold Barcodes front and back are best
Clay compound suburbs work just about as good
It really depends on THAT track's specific clay. I always recommend running the same compound and tread front and back.
01-13-2013, 06:38 PM
#10
This is good advise, until you begin to notice the differences in the different tires for yourself. The best way to do that is have a buddy switch those tires (one pair at a time and the same coumpound) after a few (or more) laps while you stay on the stand.
To answer your question, the best I can do is say; a ribbed from will have a little more steering coming into corners while you are braking/decelerating and the treaded wider from tires will hold the turn better while exiting corner under acceleration.
To answer your question, the best I can do is say; a ribbed from will have a little more steering coming into corners while you are braking/decelerating and the treaded wider from tires will hold the turn better while exiting corner under acceleration.
01-13-2013, 06:41 PM
#11
This is good advise, until you begin to notice the differences in the different tires for yourself. The best way to do that is have a buddy switch those tires (one pair at a time and the same coumpound) after a few (or more) laps while you stay on the stand.
To answer your question, the best I can do is say; a ribbed from will have a little more steering coming into corners while you are braking/decelerating and the treaded wider from tires will hold the turn better while exiting corner under acceleration.
To answer your question, the best I can do is say; a ribbed from will have a little more steering coming into corners while you are braking/decelerating and the treaded wider from tires will hold the turn better while exiting corner under acceleration.
01-13-2013, 06:50 PM
#12
Well i dont run a 2wd buggy just a 2wd SC but il tell you that Panther rattler clay compound tires front and rear work pretty good on wet clay and omg on carpet there much better ! I think if you use a soft compound in the Panther rattler tires they would work much better on a non grove/dry clay.
Do i run what the fast guys run not really only as a starting point really.
Do i run what the fast guys run not really only as a starting point really.
01-13-2013, 07:34 PM
#13
For outdoor tracks I'd say 95% of the time just mount new tires and go. However, for almost any indoor clay style track it goes like this:
Most importantly the correct compound comes first.
Followed by the correct tread pattern
Lastly but very important is tread height!!
Typically here in any Midwest indoor track it always depends on the clay content of the dirt and how wet or dry it is. Starting from extreme high bite to dried out, these are the tires I have...
Slicks
Ghost pin
1/4 pin
Half pin
Scrubbed in
Brand new
For fronts out of the package scrubs are the lowest pin followed by losi taper pin and the barcode being the tallest. Now on extreme high bite a brand new barcode will push but take it down to half pin and they steer incredibly... This goes for all of them as well. When the track looses bite and gets a bit of dust, more pin will have more grip.
Also, just because every company has a "clay" compound they are not even close to the same. Some clay tires just will not work on certain dirt like others. Example, this year at my home track PL MC is just junk. But losi pink and JC gold have been stuck!
As for the fronts only it has been my experience that Scrubs steer really well but not fantastic but are very smooth. Taper pin is very aggressive. Barcode steers well decently smooth.
Most importantly the correct compound comes first.
Followed by the correct tread pattern
Lastly but very important is tread height!!
Typically here in any Midwest indoor track it always depends on the clay content of the dirt and how wet or dry it is. Starting from extreme high bite to dried out, these are the tires I have...
Slicks
Ghost pin
1/4 pin
Half pin
Scrubbed in
Brand new
For fronts out of the package scrubs are the lowest pin followed by losi taper pin and the barcode being the tallest. Now on extreme high bite a brand new barcode will push but take it down to half pin and they steer incredibly... This goes for all of them as well. When the track looses bite and gets a bit of dust, more pin will have more grip.
Also, just because every company has a "clay" compound they are not even close to the same. Some clay tires just will not work on certain dirt like others. Example, this year at my home track PL MC is just junk. But losi pink and JC gold have been stuck!
As for the fronts only it has been my experience that Scrubs steer really well but not fantastic but are very smooth. Taper pin is very aggressive. Barcode steers well decently smooth.
01-13-2013, 08:07 PM
#14
Have you tried the front suburbs?
For outdoor tracks I'd say 95% of the time just mount new tires and go. However, for almost any indoor clay style track it goes like this:
Most importantly the correct compound comes first.
Followed by the correct tread pattern
Lastly but very important is tread height!!
Typically here in any Midwest indoor track it always depends on the clay content of the dirt and how wet or dry it is. Starting from extreme high bite to dried out, these are the tires I have...
Slicks
Ghost pin
1/4 pin
Half pin
Scrubbed in
Brand new
For fronts out of the package scrubs are the lowest pin followed by losi taper pin and the barcode being the tallest. Now on extreme high bite a brand new barcode will push but take it down to half pin and they steer incredibly... This goes for all of them as well. When the track looses bite and gets a bit of dust, more pin will have more grip.
Also, just because every company has a "clay" compound they are not even close to the same. Some clay tires just will not work on certain dirt like others. Example, this year at my home track PL MC is just junk. But losi pink and JC gold have been stuck!
As for the fronts only it has been my experience that Scrubs steer really well but not fantastic but are very smooth. Taper pin is very aggressive. Barcode steers well decently smooth.
Most importantly the correct compound comes first.
Followed by the correct tread pattern
Lastly but very important is tread height!!
Typically here in any Midwest indoor track it always depends on the clay content of the dirt and how wet or dry it is. Starting from extreme high bite to dried out, these are the tires I have...
Slicks
Ghost pin
1/4 pin
Half pin
Scrubbed in
Brand new
For fronts out of the package scrubs are the lowest pin followed by losi taper pin and the barcode being the tallest. Now on extreme high bite a brand new barcode will push but take it down to half pin and they steer incredibly... This goes for all of them as well. When the track looses bite and gets a bit of dust, more pin will have more grip.
Also, just because every company has a "clay" compound they are not even close to the same. Some clay tires just will not work on certain dirt like others. Example, this year at my home track PL MC is just junk. But losi pink and JC gold have been stuck!
As for the fronts only it has been my experience that Scrubs steer really well but not fantastic but are very smooth. Taper pin is very aggressive. Barcode steers well decently smooth.
01-13-2013, 08:15 PM
#15
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