17.5 class. Rb6 or b4.2?
 

What are your thoughts?

B4.2 duh!!! Plastic chassis is lighter and better for stock racing IMO. :)

Can you drive both at your track before choosing? EVERYONE that has test drive mine or any RB6 at the track has declared they want one.

The car is aggressive, planted, strong and the weight doesn't slow me down. In fact, after my year break I went from last in the B Main to bumping up to the A in 3wks.. and I wasn't an amain driver before.

Watching the 6's going around the track we don't lack anything, like almost every other chassis seems to (rear grip, steering, bump handling, or agility). maybe because the weight? Idk, but I'm not being out accelerated or out jumped anywhere on the track by the plastic chassis cars.

The kit setup is Bomb and the car is tough. I'd read thru both threads. While no car is perfect, I think you'd be hard pressed to find another car on the market that's better.

Another vote for RB6, i just bought one and made the switch to Kyosho. It's not heavier than a B4 either, they're both very compareable. The RB6 is easier to drive without any weight added compared to my B4.1 even with big bores and all the current mods. I had a 45g chunk in front of the shorty on my B4 to make consistent laps, which totalled just over 1600g(ROAR limit is 1499g). With the Rb6, I don't run any weight, run more consistent laps and weigh in at 1550g.. All in all, go with what your LHS/track has parts support for. I started with the B4.1 and didn't regret that decision

Get the B4. There is no reason in the world that the RB6 should cost so much. Get the B4 and you are guaranteed an excellent running car with good parts support wherever you go. You can spend the difference in $$ on whatever brushless system you want.

FWIW, I've seen RB6 that don't run well.

What's killing me about the b4.2 is the standard screws. That's not acceptable :)

Why would metric hardware bother you so much? RC 10's were standard hardware, along with the latest B4 series. Big deal.

To the OP, I thought of going the RB6 route untill I compared the cost between a B4.1or.2 and a RB6. IMO it is not worth the extra money. Parts for Kyosho are typically at least 30% more expensive. At my local track, Most of us run B4's with a few 22's thrown in every now and then with one Durango and one RB6. We will have a parts supply for the RB6 soon but the investment is still quite a bit more than a B4. We had a "big race" here lately and the RB6's did well but B4's won. Both are competitive hardware but why spend more for the same performance? I just got another B4.1 and bought the big bore shocks and paid $350 for the whole package. Still way under the price of a RB6

Everyone has there own opinion, however obviously cost isn't an issue for him if he's debating between the two and just because you saw one that wasn't driven well our well setup doesn't make it a poor car. You can't say you've never seen a poor looking B4 on the track before.

For the extra $200 your getting more durability (I have enough parts to build another car and all I've broken was ball end in 30° weather making a stupid move on the track) a more adjustable car, the best shocks on the planet, a less finicky car to setup, and higher quality parts (car won't be sloppy like the AE gets)

You have owned cars of the beaten path before. And you'll find the only ppl that will bash the 6 are ones that haven't driven one. While the AE guys are looking for traction out of corners and adding weight I'm carrying more speed thru them and firing out of the whole like rocket. I've never felt so good about a car ever and normally I don't defend a brand because they're all so good but when I say this car is a total package, I've never been so serious in my life.

And 30% increase in parts cost? Where? Shopping on Stormer and Speedtech you'll find parts are close in line with AE. And he's coming from driving Schumacher's who have 40-60% increase of parts cost... Keep the quality of the Schumies, with the legendary handling of a Kyo and buy the RB6

its 70% driver, 30% what your driving. don't worry about all this hype on which is better, you are better off putting more time into practicing and tuning.

Everyone is going to give you a different opinion (from my sig you can see which way I would suggest lol), but in the end its going to come down to what you want. Each one has its good and bad points so as mentioned before see if you can test drive both at your local track, research both cars as much as you can or want to. In the end the one you should go with is the one that you feel is right and is for you.

I ran a B4 for a long time and what really got under my skin was the slop it develops. Both B4 and Rb6 are great cars. I chose the Rb6 and don't regret it. Sure you pay a touch more but it's not much more then a B4 + big bores + avid rack etc.

I understand i will have a lot of difference of opinions, i understand how to filter good data :)

Money isn't an issue, but it does play a factor. I've owed a b4.1 before, but that was a time my local track had very bad traction. Not it's a lot better. I've never owned a kyosho before and that's why i'm inquiring the comparison.

I know to many folks, standard screws are no big deal. For me, it's huge. I'm all about connivence and standard screws are very inconvenient to me. If i cannot convert to metric, it may be a no go for the b4.2.

RB6 would be my choice. Yeah, its VERY expensive, but my god it drives amazing. Plus one thing I never liked about Associated is the parts quality. For some its no big deal, for me, its a deal breaker.

Whats wrong with the dex210?